2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Yeah so I am going to go ahead and be the ******* that says before you do anything else to this car you should research and ask before you decide on doing it.....

Reasoing:

Your I/C piping is dangerously close to both your housing, and your belt. When your motor tweaks under boost, would't surprise me if you have serious problems.

You obviously didnt research a whole lot cuz you would already know exactly what you wanted for fuel control before you started this. Also, you probably would have decided to do it with a Spearco type I/C with the inlet and outlet on the same side, not using cheap PVC pipe from Lowe's that will crack and expand on you over time. But then again yours will probably last a week considering you feel anywhere near an 1/8 of an inch is considered clearance.

That turbine A/R is absolutely massive, how big is it exactly? And i am just curious to know why its that big, and if you have good reasoning for it with a considerably smaller compressor. Usually on 3.0's its the exact opposite, T04 or not.


Sorry....
Jon

UBHSTRY

Your right, I didnt. I jumped in head first, and the piping was just sitting there, plenty of clearance in its proper place. The turbo is that big because thats what came with the set up. I am not *****ing for the price I paid for the set up, which was under 800 bucks. I am sorry you took the pic as "running condiotion", I had just put that in there for mock up placement. Didnt mean to give anyone a coronary.

Maybe you could tell me why its that big? This is my first turbo set-up, and sorry if I am upsetting people by learing with trial and error. I stumbled into this car, and the turbo set up. That is why I am doing it.

And, what looks to be PVC?? The piping is aluminium. I guess that may crack also just like pvc from lowes?

Also, I have over a 1/4 inch clearance now.....not an 1/8.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Ok at least your humble enough to ask for help. There are alot of ways to boost a car, but not knowing what direction you are going in is going to cause you alot of problems. If I were you, I would hold off on building the project period and do ALOT of research until you are very comfortable with the idea's and methods used in forced induction. Rule No.1 for turbocharing a car is to figure out what you want to do with the car, i.e. 800 whp and a 1500 RPM's of ungodly boost? Or do you want 3500-4000 of usable boost for street application and daily driving? When you turbo a car, you built the motor around the goals and turbo and that you decide on, not the other way around. Slapping a turbo on just for the fact that its a turbo is like saying what oil you put in your vehicle is irrelevant, not matter what make, model, size, or time of year, its all the same. What you need to do is find out exactly what turbo you have and what size at that. So it's a T04, well is it a T04, T04E, T04Z, T04R, T3/T4, etc, and what size Compressor/Turbine trims and housings that you have. This will give you an idea, (in addition with what other mods you are planning on of course), what the car is going to produce in terms of power, and when it will be produced.

Welcome to the turbo world, where everything is subjective, relevant, and picky.

Jon

UBHSTRY

Jon, the good news about this project is it is just that for me. A turbo project. Thankfully I dont need the car to drive (I own a small used car lot and repair shop). Thats why I didnt mind diving right in

I am going to wright all the info off of the turbine down and post it here for you.
thanks

UBHSTRY

By the way, I am not looking for 800hp, hoping for a daily driven 350-400 hp car out if it.

UBHSTRY

Also jon, I am not a "newbee" with cars themselves. I just have been a diehard GM guy...LOL

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

its not like all you have done is wrong, you will be fine,
just read some more and learn from it. and reroute that piping!!

looks like you will be taking along time to spool up with that exhaust housing.
so you might not be getting your power early on enough.
but you will be getting alot on top.
Ideally this is best for achieving higher hp levels at the cost of low-mid range.

If you want a fun wide powerband you could always switch to a smaller turbo later on. I would say since you have it put it on and see if you like it.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Lol. Ahh yess, the infamous smallblocks that my 14 yr old cousin can build. Jk man. Thats the tuner>GM rivalry in me. I don't doubt that you know alot about cars, maybe even more than I know on Domestics. But your building something now that is like night to day from what you are probably used to. Its not TBI, Carbs, high rise intake mani's, and 13:1 454's. To be honest, its like starting all over again. A good thing to do is just ask research things if you don't understand them. Everything on a boosted car is sooo picky, the margin of error increases dramatically when psi is kicking. Alot of people thinkk they know the intricacies of boosted cars and how stuff works, but they really have no clue. Same with some of the people you are used to dealing with I'm sure owning a repair shop.
Good luck with the build.

Jon.

Oh and P.S. I hope you know what your getting into, if you learn this right and get the boost bug, theres no turning back my friend. Say bye-bye camaro and hello Supra.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/S...dyno_16314.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/N...a-2_100324.htm

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Rofl. Being an ex rotary owner and on streetfire, I had to do this....


For all of you that think a little 2.0L rotary is just a little whiny cracker jack toy POS.....

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/M...bo-w_39698.htm

UBHSTRY

Thanks jon. The biggest thing is that I DID KNOW I was getting into something NEW and exciting. Which, like anything else, has a huge learning curve. I still think that makes it different, I dont expect to slam it together, and bang, have 1500 horses on pump gas....LMAO

I dont mind learning, it was the whole idea behind this change. And, by the way, I am already bitten........LOL

UBHSTRY

A/R 1.15 is on that housing.

SMP142

1.15 is pretty big. but i guess it also depends on what size wheel its got too. you can always try it and see how it works. if anything you can just get another housing. usually can pick those up for $100-$150.

atleast your choosing a good platform to play around with. i can honestly say i was born with GM in my blood and will always love them. grew up building alchy small blocks for our late model dirt car. but, boost is a whole other kind of addiction. when i turboed my first car in highschool i knew i was hooked. the 2jz has proven itself over and over. so welcome to the "club" and i hope you have money. b/c you wont want to stop at that 400 mark .

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Like SMP142 said, thats a little large and probably gonna see some serious lag. Rear A/R's that size are more for peak HP and highway driving, or to put it this way, it's got that continuous pull that never falls off because it's very hard to max out the exhaust flow that it can handle. The smaller the A/R, the faster the spool, but the less top end flow. It also depends on the trim of the wheel. What is the compressor A/R (front housing)? Also, can you see any other numbers/letters or marks that give any indication as to what specific T04 it is? Learn how to read efficiency maps and this will give you alot more info on just how in depth this turbo picking process can be.

http://www.automotivearticles.com/Turbo_Selection.shtml



Jon

UBHSTRY

Ill post all the numbers on it, as soon as I can.