Gunnar

Fuel rail is fine well past 500whp. A FPR would be good, and one fuel pump (a Walbro or a TT Supra Denso) will suffice as well.

The headgasket you'll get different answers on. I personally would prefer a TT headgasket setup with TT (or aftermarket with TT compression ratio) pistons, but most people don't want to open up the motor and just put a thicker headgasket on it.

I'm certainly no expert, but I do have an NA-T car.

na4now

Id rather not mess with the bottom end. So, ...whatever headgasket it takes to achieve a 8.5-8.8 compression ratio?

I wonder whats the compromise between being safe, ...and not lossing to much power?

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

interesting...do you have any dyno's showing the difference between .6-.8 a/r exhaust housings? I'm curious to see these differences . Also, what rev limit were you working with to notice your above described anomolies associated with .6 vs .8 exhaust a/r housing size? Thanks in advance.

NAforNow, get the 2.0mm headgasket for 8.5:1 compression.

forcefed86

I'd have to say you could get by alot cheaper than the suggestions being made. Although they are very nice parts. Money is always a factor.

If your buying injectors new, buy as large as you can in a hi-Z injector. Although I'm running 550's and was making 480 @ the wheels @ 21lbs with some 110 splashed in the tank. 422hp @ 17 psi with pump gas. A/F's were in the high 10's low 11's.

Now with the meth injection I run 25 lbs through a larger IC and 4" exhaust dump. I'm running a dave H NA-T kit with a te-44 turbo. (pretty much a 60mm .68 housing). Haven't been back to the dyno since but I'm hoping for 500 wheel...

Just a thought If 500 is all your really looking for.

na4now

My goal is 550whp. If I can get close to that, Ill be happy. Thats why I say 500-550whp. As stated in my first post, ...I have about a $7500 budget left. I guess I could always spend more.

dejacky, ...who makes/sells that 2mm headgasket?

GSoup

HKS & GReddy make 2mm HG and Boostlogic makes a 2.5mm. I would also get ARP headstuds.

TTSC3

I don't have dynos for the same car with swapped housings, but with a 2JZ, and about 7k worth or rpm, when using a turbo that size, you'll get back pressure with a housing that small. I've tuned a bunch of 2J's that run the small housing, and they all did the same thing as described. I think there's a thread on supraforums, where Geoff from Full Race talks about this too. It wasn't too long ago, maybe a week or two ago.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Can that be offset by a larger exhaust diameter? Like a 4" dp for instance?

Gunnar

I would imagine it would be offset somewhat but not entirely overcome. Blizzy seems to be the exhaust expert though.

na4now

Turns out after talking to Andre (Drewgo) some more,.... I wont have enough room to fit a t67 under the intake piping, with this manifold.

He says I can slightly angle the piping over the turbo, ....but doing that, wouldnt I have alot of heat transfer from that super hot exhaust housing, to my intake pipe? Seems like that would heat the air before it enters the throttle body.

Maybe I just need to use a tt style intake manifold? Or just start with a GTE? I really dont want to do that.

Gunnar

You can offset that by using a good quality 4-ply coupler (I have a Vibrant one) and heat wrap. I have a ceramic coated exhaust housing which helps cut down a little bit on it, and black DEI exhaust wrap (looks much better than the tan colored I think). I have the XS Power manifold which is pretty similar I think, and a 67 with a .81 AR exhaust housing.

LexusFTW

iTrader: (7)

Did you even read my post?

forcefed86

Also a turbo blanket can be used to help with heat. I can touch the top of the blanket after a few pulls with my bare hand. Although I'm only running a .68 rear and a dave H manifold.

yauser

I know it's been a few months already, but I would like to add to this. A .6a/r turbine housing is too small, and you definitely will get into torque spike. I use to run a t04b with a .59 a/r housing, because of people who don't exactly what they were talking about said to do so. Once I switched over to a .81a/r, things started to get better, but at wot it was still spiking a little. Then I tried a .91a/r, and that's where I ended up with. The turbo needs to breath my friend. Fast spooling turbos require a large a/r, while the slow spooling turbos require smaller a/r.