LexusFTW

iTrader: (7)

who did the work? Sounds like somebody either didnt know what they were doing or they were just lazy...

are you using a jdm or usdm ecu?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Ok first to clarify something. If you removed the vac line to your fpr and then went out and boosted it then you need to take your car to shop and not touch that motor again until you have done some serious research on EFI basics. Did you do this swap yourself?

clevercat

Need to get AFC and add more fuel (tune it on dyno).
I had the similar problem whenever the big boy kicked in 4K.
A/F was all over the place before we tune it with AFC.

WB is also a good idea along with the Fuel pressure gauge.

Gunnar

I have an AEM UEGO (like a part number 30-4100) and I love it. I had an SAFC and it was serviceable and now I have the original MAP ECU1 and it's a lot better.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

No he doesn't. First he needs to learn why and how things work before he blows his motor. Then he needs to fix all of his vac leaks/minor problems and get a TT MAF and see if that doesn't help. No offense but this guy doesn't need anthing else on his car that he doesn't understand. The last thing we need to tell this guy to do is slap a piggyback on there and that will solve his problems . On a side note, there are quite a few small single turbo 2j's that dont even have any kind of management because the stock ecu/fuel system can account for a large part of it and relearn a small portion to where it is still boostable for daily driving no problems. However, it wont be anywhere near what it could with alteration. So in his case he should be nowhere close to needing management.

Jon

W1d0wMaker

First off, the car isnt being driven, when i said that under boost it ran lean, it was simply some minor reving of the engine just enough to spool the tubo realy, (Economy Car Service) did most of the work for me while I was at the Nascar Technical Institute in North Carolina. I specialize in BMW and Mercedes, So Im not a total dumb ***, i do have a head on my sholders. there are vaccum lines going to nothing, but they are all plugged. so there is no vaccume leak other than what I purposely unplugged. I was simpy checking to make sure the FPR was working. apparently its either open or closed, there is no happy medium. I am using the 94 usdm ecu. just so you know, I bought a supra 2j,got the aristo motor instead, so as far as im conserned, the aristo motor has caused me a lot of headache. I have gone over all the wiring, and it seems to be all correct.

Five1OH

W1d0wMaker, the O2 sensor that you have the air/fuel ratio gauge wired to is a narrow band. You need to purchase a wideband. AEM UEGO and Innovative LC-1 kits are very precise and fast responding units.

David

Five1OH

Revving the motor, even if you are making boost, and have a wideband O2 sensor is still an inaccurate method of reading your air to fuel ratios. You need to put a load on the engine. You will want to know what your Air to fuel ratios are at all RPMs (which you can't do by revving the motor). I'm not 100% sure, but if I recall correctly, the Innovative LC-1 wideband kit has a datalogging system where you can hook it up to a laptop and you will be able to see a graph of the air to fuel ratio after you made a run so you don't have to look at the gauge, or computer screen while your foot is to the floor which is very dangerous.

David

Dew23

iTrader: (1)

#1 us ecu is desigined for a tt afm
#2 jdm aristo motor is 440cc injectors unless you have swaped them out
#3 the aristo motor is a map sensor motor hope you are useing a us wire harness if not the pins need to be swaped.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

No offense whatsoever, but your posts show so far that "Nascar" education or not, (*side chuckle) you are still pretty inexperienced with turbocharged applications and fuel injection. If I am misinterpreting what you are writing, then you might want to make what you say a little more clear. When you say things like revving the motor at idle and building boost, that is very unlikely and just because the turbo is spinning does not mean it is building boost. Saying things like this tells us your level of knowledge about what you are tyring to describe. So try not to get too angry at us having to sort through what you think is relevant and what is actually going on.

There are medium points in the FPR, it isn't just open or shut, to make it simple: boost=more fuel at the rail by closing the valve in the FPR, more vaccuum= less pressure and it actually pulls it open to allow more fuel to pass by. Saying all of this, testing this at idle isn't going to tell you much at all. (FYI to tell if an FPR is bad, remove the line and see if fuel comes out the top port) Now what you said you did is remove it and look at narrowband signal that is inaccurate in the first place, and then assumed it was building boost as you indicated in your post. Like Five10H said, revving at idle is kind of irrelevant as you need to place a load on your engine with a wideband to get any kind of real feedback.

If all this seems like I'm being a ****, I am only taking what you have posted word for word and making suggestions and comments. As for the vaccuum lines, they don't go to nothing. If they are there, they are probably relevant somewhere if you are still on stock ecu. Now if you have the aristo motor just remember that that is jdm and the discrepencies between US/JAPAN emissions are night and day.

I think a good thing to do right now is do pressure test. This means you cap off the I/C piping on the outlet of the turbos and hook up an air tank to it then allow roughly 10 psi or so through the whole I/C system, listen for air coming out from couplings, vac lines etc. Once you have done this, open the throttle body and allow the pressure to flow through the intake mani etc and listen for more air leaks. After you have insured everything is good and tight, get yourself a good wideband and go out and datalog your results. It is good to do this with someone so they can tell you when you are leaning out or getting fat and you can concentrate the road and watch what correlating RPM and boost you are at.

Good luck
Jon

W1d0wMaker

yes, that would be nice, I mean to drive it, but the way it runs it is in no driving condition. the thing hardly runs. while taking a look at the spark plugs, they are a dry black!

LexusFTW

iTrader: (7)

bring the car to oklahoma and 2jzlex and I will have it running top notch in no time

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

OKLEXUSFTW!!!!!!

W1d0wMaker

you paying for the hauler...lol

After a quick diagnosis of my spark plugs, it seems that I am not running lean, but predetinating. I tried to check the timing, but it is set and cannot be changed(by the way everything else is in alignment). so why would I be predetinating?(spark plugs have a thick black soot covering the entire end)

W1d0wMaker

Hotter burning NGK spark plugs did the trick! still not running to perfection, but running!