Turbo Manifold, Intercooler, Downpipe outa paint shop!
05-05-08, 10:01 AM
#31
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the placement of the wastegate is good BUT the fact that it is t-ing off at a 90* angle doesnt help. an efficient design has the wastegate pipe pointing in the same direction as the turbo manifold outlet or close to that. if you look at old school toyota I-6 turbo racing motors then incorporated the wastegate into the turbine housing.
i dont doubt that the manifold is well put together, with good welding and fitment. the heavy material that is used is not justified unless you are not using any braces to support the manifold and turbo weigh. you can easily use 16ga. SS and make the manifold. the only thing you have to do is make a brace that attaches to the manifold and block to support the weight.
the ebay manifold suffers from the lack of support so when you get a big turbo on it and do a lot of runs the weight of the turbo stuff will stress the manifold too much and cause it to crack. the fact that they use mild steel flanges and SS piping is not the best either due to different expansion rates which also adds stress.
the solution: ebay manifold, fabricate brake, YOURE DONE
i dont doubt that the manifold is well put together, with good welding and fitment. the heavy material that is used is not justified unless you are not using any braces to support the manifold and turbo weigh. you can easily use 16ga. SS and make the manifold. the only thing you have to do is make a brace that attaches to the manifold and block to support the weight.
the ebay manifold suffers from the lack of support so when you get a big turbo on it and do a lot of runs the weight of the turbo stuff will stress the manifold too much and cause it to crack. the fact that they use mild steel flanges and SS piping is not the best either due to different expansion rates which also adds stress.
the solution: ebay manifold, fabricate brake, YOURE DONE
Ian
05-05-08, 12:33 PM
#32
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i sent it to a paintshop that my father does business with (my pops owns a sheetmetal company). he used hi temperature paint. not sure exactly what kind of paint, but i told him what kind of temperature conditions it would be under and he said the paint is able to hold up to 2400 degrees.
Last edited by ZSC3; 05-05-08 at 12:41 PM.
05-05-08, 12:40 PM
#33
when i make manifolds i use ss flanges with ss piping. mild steel flanges are just cheaper thats why peaople use them. every racing header that i have ever seen...in person by the way(toyota atlantic, vw super vee, indy motors)...all had all-ss construction. im sure daveh's manifolds are reliable...because they seem to be made out of thick pipe-like tubing.
its great that you do this for living. im not gonna comment on your work or skill because i dont know you or what/how you do your work. for the most part half the manifolds on the market are crap. they will work but as far as the design and sometimes craftsmanship goes they suck. helix, peak boost, some other im trying to think of are crap. even the AMS manifold i saw wasnt impressive for the price.
its great that you do this for living. im not gonna comment on your work or skill because i dont know you or what/how you do your work. for the most part half the manifolds on the market are crap. they will work but as far as the design and sometimes craftsmanship goes they suck. helix, peak boost, some other im trying to think of are crap. even the AMS manifold i saw wasnt impressive for the price.
05-05-08, 12:43 PM
#34
i sent it to a paintshop that my father does business with (my pops owns a sheetmetal company). he used hi temperature paint. not sure exactly what kind of paint, but i told him what kind of temperature conditions it would be under and he said the paint is able to hold up to 2400 degrees.
05-05-08, 12:44 PM
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when i make manifolds i use ss flanges with ss piping. mild steel flanges are just cheaper thats why peaople use them. every racing header that i have ever seen...in person by the way(toyota atlantic, vw super vee, indy motors)...all had all-ss construction. im sure daveh's manifolds are reliable...because they seem to be made out of thick pipe-like tubing.
its great that you do this for living. im not gonna comment on your work or skill because i dont know you or what/how you do your work. for the most part half the manifolds on the market are crap. they will work but as far as the design and sometimes craftsmanship goes they suck. helix, peak boost, some other im trying to think of are crap. even the AMS manifold i saw wasnt impressive for the price.
its great that you do this for living. im not gonna comment on your work or skill because i dont know you or what/how you do your work. for the most part half the manifolds on the market are crap. they will work but as far as the design and sometimes craftsmanship goes they suck. helix, peak boost, some other im trying to think of are crap. even the AMS manifold i saw wasnt impressive for the price.
Sorry for the thread jack, the parts look great. Now let see them on the car!
Ian
05-05-08, 09:41 PM
#40
Ummm... please noone else use this method. I can't begin to count how many manifolds I have seen, turbo and non, of this stuff just flaking right off. If you aren't making this up to sound like your all thrifty and what not, and it actually has held it up, it won't for much longer. I don't care how good you prep it, how many coats you give it, blah blah, anything out of a can is going to be far inferior to something professionally coated, and in the end is going to be a complete waste of time and money.
05-06-08, 09:37 AM
#41
Ummm... please noone else use this method. I can't begin to count how many manifolds I have seen, turbo and non, of this stuff just flaking right off. If you aren't making this up to sound like your all thrifty and what not, and it actually has held it up, it won't for much longer. I don't care how good you prep it, how many coats you give it, blah blah, anything out of a can is going to be far inferior to something professionally coated, and in the end is going to be a complete waste of time and money.
05-06-08, 04:04 PM
#42
i did all my prepping by sandblasting the parts. just because other people do it half as* and cant prep it right doesnt mean its not at effective method. i have seen inferior jobs on manifold when idiots take the reigns. when you actually take your time and on a tight budget, such as myself(a college student), then it works out pretty well. too many people on here talk of what works and doesnt work without doing any of it and simply reading elsewhere.
Jon
05-06-08, 05:15 PM
#43
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ya know 5sp_jzz30, seems like everytime I read something of yours it's always the shortcut cheap route. "Sure you can use that spray on stuff, works just as good." Or, "sure you can use a welded diff, it works great, till it breaks." I am a college student as well and know exactly how tough it can be, but I don't use it as an excuse to do shady work on my car and then use it as an excuse when **** breaks. It's just sad to see encouragement of such cheap "upgrades" (if that is what you want to call them), on a car like the SC. You would think this is Civic forum or something with this kind of cheap crap.
Jon
Jon
05-06-08, 06:47 PM
#45
ya know 5sp_jzz30, seems like everytime I read something of yours it's always the shortcut cheap route. "Sure you can use that spray on stuff, works just as good." Or, "sure you can use a welded diff, it works great, till it breaks." I am a college student as well and know exactly how tough it can be, but I don't use it as an excuse to do shady work on my car and then use it as an excuse when **** breaks. It's just sad to see encouragement of such cheap "upgrades" (if that is what you want to call them), on a car like the SC. You would think this is Civic forum or something with this kind of cheap crap.
Jon
Jon
the stuff that i have done over the years and learned from other people are cheap effective ways to improve a certain characteristic of whatever you are doing.
sure you can get supra motor mounts because they are a bit stiffer and you can also buy some aftermarket ones. you will end up spending an arm and a leg. OR you can go buy some hockey pucks which are effective. another thing that works great is buying blocks of hard polyurethane and make your own. you can also get some 3M window caulk(doesnt work for our mounts but does wonders on nissan motor mounts). you may thing that those are ghetto methods. the fact is all of those work great and most importantly THEY LAST.
welded diff. i had mine for a year of daily driving and 3 drift days. you are going to tell me it doesnt hold up. as i previously said. the quality is only as good as the person performing the work.
doing things half as* is not my intention. i never do things half as*. i just try to find cost effective ways to do things. we dont drive hondas so you cant build a track worthy car for 6 grands. if you want to have some money in the end of the day for food and bar, and still want to do mods to a lexus THAT ARE EFFECTIVE AND WILL LAST then you will start of thinking outside the box and not just go to a company anf give them every single paycheck for simple mods.
i have been working on all my cars all the time. from the basics to engine building. working at a shop building racing engines for a guy that has built engines for the likes of Bobby Rahal, partnered with Carl Haas, and good friends with Bill Simpson himself. winning Super Vee, Toyota Atlantic Series, and countless SCCA classes is nothing right. yeah sure everything i do is half as*. you are right. learning from the best doesnt mean anything.
i think my work speaks for itself. if you dont like what im suggesting then suggest something that works better that you actually KNOW will work. suggesting to members on the forum to go to the dealer and buy parts is a no brainer. that why all the people complain that having a lexus is expensive. learn how to do thinks and improvise and you will be fine.
again as i said earlier: the quality of the job is only as good as the skill of the worker
heres a few pics
