KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

For those who don't know, I have a supercharged SC400. I've been trying to get some decent times on an 1/8 mile track but I can't hook off the line to save my life. I even purchased a set of Supra wheels and put a pair of 275's in the rear and I still can't launch even close to my stall speed. I'm smoking the tires at around 2200rpm!

I don't really want to spend the money on a set of drag wheels and slicks. I might be willing to buy a set of drag radials. I would only use them at the track, changing the tires around before and after.

So, advice please. Anyone here ever use drag radials? Think I'll be able to hook with a set? I've been considering the Nitto's and the BFG's in AT LEAST a 275.

Does anyone know if a 315 on a Supra wheel in the rear will fit and not rub?

Any help, advice would be great!

BTW, best time so far is 8.795 (1/8 mile) with a 1.95 60 foot and an 81 mph trap. That is the only run I've managed a sub 2 second 60 ft.

KC

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

A very small sample of the rubber removed from my rear fender wells after the last trip to the track. I have tire rubber stuck to my exhaust tips!

KC

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

I've always used nitto 555r's for radials, they are great! I've used them on my 240, but I hear BFG's are also good. But I hear BFG's tread life isn't that great.

DryBlaze

Mickey Thompson drag radials are awesome. Thread life isn't great but grabs like a ****!

TTSC3

If you want the best DR's, use the Mickey Thompson DR's. I've got a set, and it's pretty much a slick with some tread cut into it.

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

This guy has quite a good bit of information. Maybe follow his lead.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBGIQ7ZuuiU

Gunnar

Grab a set of Mickey Thompson drag radials, I have them on my car and love it.

evileagle

I have a set of mickey thompsond DR and they hook up so much better than the nittos, BFG, and those falken DR's. I have tried all three.....

Gunnar

The Azenis are not drag radials, they're sticky but they're auto-x tires.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I guess the real question here is..would they be worth the money? I'd hate to spend 300-400 dollars and still not be able to launch hard.

I'm looking into some used (supposedly only one run) MT slicks. 26 x 10 x 15. Wheels are included and they are a 4.5 x 5 bolt pattern.

In the meantime, keep the suggestions coming. Also curious to hear theories on how much time I might gain with slicks and a full throttle launch.

KC

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

yeah MT's aren't really drag radials, they are more of a slick with a line through it for water passage....i wouldn't drive around on those lol. But yeah I've borrowed them from a friend, they work great!

Gunnar

You're thinking of the bias ply ET street. They make an ET Street Radial which is in fact a drag radial.



KC, they do work great and are totally worth the investment. What's the backspacing on the wheels you found? Our cars prefer a 15x8 with a 5.5 backspacing or a 15x10 with a 7.5 backspacing.

If you found a full slick that'll obviously be your best bet at the track, if you aren't worried about having traction when just driving around town. I personally and friends of mine are able to daily drive our cars on the ET streets or ET street radials with no issue, you just have to be careful if you ever get caught out in bad weather and not drive like it's still dry. My roommate has made it through thick snow on a 325/50/15 MT radial.

As far as what times to expect, there's no exact science to it but the old rule of thumb I've heard from the old timers at the track is "one tenth on the small end is worth two on the big end", though it obviously varies and won't be the same for an NA car as it will a forced induction one. Either way, getting that 60' down should help a lot.

If you haven't looked into them, check out the Megan Racing traction bars. There's a nice thread about them in the Shops & Parts Review section on SupraForums. Also, disconnect your front sway bar (just unbolting the end links on the sides will do the trick and is easily put back for the drive home). I also noticed a favorable improvement by putting Energy Suspension sway bar bushings on the rear (kept the car from squatting harder on the right side than the left so bad).

Any other questions and I'd be glad to take a shot at them as well.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the great info. I do have a few more.

What does unbolting the sway bar links do? I had somebody else tell me to remove the sway bar but he seemed to think it was just for weight savings.

What do you run? Have you managed to break anything?

I might go with the full slicks, seems if I'm going to do it, I mise well do it right. I'm considering suspension upgrades, just trying to figure out what to do first. BTW, I have an LSD, does the one wheel squat problem still apply?

Thanks,

KC

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

Those are the tires I have

Disconect the Sway bar! Great Idea! I was wonder a good way to transfer weight without running drag coilovers. Also turn the dampening all the way down on coilovers.

Thanks for the sway bar tip! I like it!

PHLSingle

I'll throw in my 2 cents...

I've run those 325/50/15 MT drag radials exclusively and cut 1.38 - 1.40 60' and the tires will def support a much better short time as well. Comparing these to a small slick...eh...I vote for the more stable DR

Also, the above 60's are with the front sway bar, etc...those are all good ideas by the guys posting...but IMO...I think you'd do just as well leaving the sway bars connected on stock SC rear suspension.

Have fun...keep us posted!
Jay