so its the brown/black wire between the black and pink wires on the orange plug next to it?
TYTY

 

Did you figure out the issue with the transmission and the grinding?

 

i know a good transmission guy in Glendale who said it sounds like a hydraulic problem. he said it might be the slave cylinder because i replaced the master cylinder without changing the slave. and they should be done at the same time. i really need to fix this temp gauge problem but the writeups i looked at arent right. but my temp gauge is getting power as you can see in the vid, it just reads HOT(the car isnt overheating). so there for i think it just need the 330 ohm resister mod. so if anyone could point me to a DIY or writeup fixing the temp with a 330 ohm resister. would be a big help.....
thanks
Greg

 

Update: 1992sc300/jdm 1jz-gte r154 swap done and running.... two days ago i was having the normal issues like completely dead tachometer and a temperature gauge reading somewhere above HOT. i went through a number of threads saying to just ground out a brown with black strip wire at the body plug controlling the cluster at the bottom of the passenger side kick panel. well my temp. gauge was reading HOT HOT like i mention earlier. there for the temp. gauge has power running threw its POT. so what i did was just soldered a 330ohm resister behind the cluster( middle plug yellow wire with green strip). i gave it a good visual inspection consisting of waiting for my thermostat in my cooling system to open up ( which is 70C) and the temp. gauge read on the second line from the bottom. as for the tach fix, it was even easier.... i just soldered a wire bypassing a resister on r109 on the circuit board the back of the cluster behind a protective plastic cover. and as far as i know they are accurate but when i hit the dyno i will let you all know for sure. hit me up threw PM and i will send you some pics.

 

What year is your car? Mine is a 95 and I had to do resistor r73. I think its in the same spot, but just named differently. lol.

 

i will get some pic up in like 2-3 hours. its 93 degrees outside so i am in no hurry to go out and work on it. but i have to change my power steering pump and flush out my coolant, i will take a few pics while i am out there.

 

hey guys i am sick of the stock sc300 exhaust on my 1jz-gte... so this is what i ordered. i picked up a greddy mx 3" 1jz downpipe http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290242015987
Shown here. and just wanted to get some feedback on 2 of these magnaflow 3"inlet 4"outlet exhaust???http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...e=main&id=7663
i found these magnaflow mufflers for 122 bucks new from a local shop you guys think they would sound nice???

 

Looks like you may need to mod that downpipe a little since its for an MKIII, but for 175 bucks it looks like a pretty good deal.
I was actually thinking about getting those exact same mufflers to replace my N1's. (I want more of a stock appearance) I think they look pretty good.

 

nice thread

 

my r154 is making lots of rattling and grinding noises. at idle there is a small rattling noise and when i depress the clutch the noise changes pitch and gets a little louder. and when i am driving there is a grinding noise that doesnt go away until i stop moving. also between 1, 2, and Rev while the clutch is depressed when shifting from gear to gear it will grind until i drop the clutch in neutral or force it into gear. i only say force because it isnt easy to put it into gear( I think it should be softer).i am running royal purple in the trans right now and everyone i have told said to run something else like redline. but other then that it goes into gears and holds and doesnt slip at all. my questions are: does that sound like syncros and clutch or does the trans sound like its taking a crap? and how much would you expect a r154 rebuild and new clutch flywheel exc exc. cost from my trustworthy trans guy( weird question lol ). i just havent had time to go by this trans shop yet. this guy wouldnt rip me off and has built me 4l60e's and th400 that held 400rwhp and is still holding after 8 years.

 

i am going to be buying a clutch this week and was wondering what you guys thought about this jdm asco oem clutch? kit?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=170238230441
maybe i will buy a 6 puck sprung disk http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/...n6puckdisk.php and use that instead of that stock disk. what do you guys think that this setup would hold if i put a 6 puck ceramic/metallic disk with this flywheel? http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/...jzflywheel.php
Or should i just buy this clutch kit from MVP?

Spec Stage 3 Clutch for 1986-92 Supra Turbo
Part # Spec ST633
STAGE 3 - Ultimate Street & Strip Clutch!! This kit features high clamp pressure plate with a 4 or 6 pad carbon sprung hub disc. The disc is a 3-piece design sprung hub to deliver sharp aggressive but yet smooth engagement. Quiet operation with increased torque capacity over Stage 2. The carbon material is highly durable and heat resistant. This kit is excellent for daily driving and racing especially for cars with higher output engines. All clutch kits include release bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool (if applicable). This kit is available with an optional 4 puck disc for the same price. Please click on MORE INFO and select the desired disc.

Torque Rating: 520 ft/lbs.
MSRP $549.00
Your Price $471.00 http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templa...306&SearchYN=N
either way i have to buy that slotted flywheel from driftmotion. i just dont know what clutch to use, all these places claim that their clutch hold 520tq but they look like a stock cover/pressure plate. driftmotion said that their stage 3 clutch kit is all stock except for the cover/pressure plate was heat treated and they run a sprung 6 puck disk. i dont know what to do... what would you guys do in my case?

 

i bought the hpf ferramic 6 puck disk w/ the spec pp. i'm still breaking it in but it should hold everything i throw at it. this is also what hpf recommended for me w/ the T61. combined this with the stock 1jz flywheel instead of an aftermarket flywheel. pretty easy to drive so far and pedal feel is excellent, very light compared to my spec stage 3+ w/ the super clamp option i had in the w58.

 

what driveshaft are you using? custom?

 

i bought a used 7m r154 drive shaft for 100$.

 

got some new parts in the mail today.
Flywheel, 3qt GM synchromemesh, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch release fork and mounting hook, and slave cylinder.