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NA-t OR motor swap?????

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Old 06-03-08 | 11:19 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by trufanatic
i dont kno about cost but here is a laundry list to start.

r154 tranny with 1jz bellhousing
Stock supra TT headgasket
turbo manifold
60 trim turbo
aem ems or motec - STAY AWAY FROM PIGGYBACKS if you like your motor
new flywheel and clutch
oil feed and return lines
custom or boost logic IC and piping

I think thats about it but i would highly recommend a GTE style intake manifold, this will yield great gain simply because the air has more of a direct path to travel but theyre pretty expensive. you can do the turbo stuff first and see how the car holds up and then do the tranny swap because thats going to be a good chunk. the w58 can hold 350-400whp....but this is a hit or miss with alot these cars. dont forget that the motor is still a 2jz. actually the NA head breathes better than the GTE because it has larger ports but the cams are the limitation. have fun

cost....maybe 4k to be conservative
WOW!! thanks boss good looking out, imma look into this asap and you seem like you know what your talking about so if i have any other questions i will pm.
Old 06-03-08 | 12:04 PM
  #17  
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What NA-T manifold would you guys suggest? I'd love to get the full-race manifold like I had on my previous two projects, but this one has to be done on a budget. Are there any durable budget turbo manifolds?
Old 06-03-08 | 12:26 PM
  #18  
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I ran na-t on my previous totalled SC3, and I was only at around 325rwhp. I was pretty happy already, especially only for street driving/racing. Now my current SC is still stock, and I'm planning on just doing a GTE swap in the near future. I figured just simple bolt-on's should yield the same amount of horsepower on the GTE motor, so why go through so much tuning for na-t. Also, since I've never purchased a brand new car before, I'm going to spend some money by the end of the year on rebuilding my entire SC. It's still going to cost a lot cheaper than buying a brand new sports car. I will only be getting genuine Vertex side skirts and the front 97 lip only, because the replica rear bumper is pretty good already. Then I'll change out all the bushings, front/rear, convert it to 5 spd, and that should ride like a brand new car hopefully.
Old 06-03-08 | 12:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lexforlife
i disagree with the piggyback thing
+1. No matter what EMS you use, it only performs as well as the tuner who tunes it. You can have a standalone that doesn't do **** for you because your tuner has no clue what he is doing. I've seen many cars, ranging from Honda's to a Sc's that use piggybacks and perform great! They wouldn't sell a product like that if it was a catastrophe. It would have been spread around car enthusiasts by now I'm sure.
Old 06-03-08 | 01:23 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by lexforlife
i disagree with the piggyback thing

if you are looking in the 400 range to mid 5's with correct fuelmods and all other supporting mods running a good piggy back with a good tune is just as good as a standalone without the tuning issues of tuning a full standalone afterall toyota knew what they were doing when the programmed the stock ecu .. we are not running in boost all the time so driving in vacumm is great with stock ecu .. dont get me wrong they there the occaisional hiccup but even standalones have issues some quite major
That is very solid advice. The modern piggybacks like the Apexi Neo are quite capable. And yes, like DasBach says, proper tuning is manditory and best done on a dyno in the hands of an experienced tech.
Old 06-03-08 | 09:56 PM
  #21  
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forums.clubna-t.com is your best friend.

the kit already comes with manifolds and all the necessary stuff minus the intercooler piping (sold separately) so why would you worry about which manifold to use? Use something people have expeerience with. XSturbo kit works, period. Piggy back works too, you don't need a standalone. My budget is 3000 and i should be around there when i purchase everything at power levels of 350-400whp. NA-T
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