We're having trouble. When we connect the negative terminal of the battery it cranks.

We've followed what all the threads have said, such as the wire from 8pin connector near the battery to the CF1 #8 position on the body plug. Also we've done the neutral bypass. We've double, triple, and quadruple checked everything as well.

When we connect the negative terminal of the battery, it still cranks immediately without the key in the ignition.

We need help ASAP, you can even call me 303-870-0702

Thanks in advance,
Brian

 

this happened to me with the stock GE engine, turned out to be a shorted starter.

 

unplug the clip-in plug on the starter and leave the bolted on terminals connected

connect the battery.

if it still cranks by it's self, the problem is in the starter.

if it doesn't crank by it's self, the problem is in the wiring

 

Where in the wiring would the problem be? This topic has been discussed before, but it seemed to work for everyone else.

Here are some of the other threads we followed.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=327356
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...&highlight=cf1

 

Ok we disconnected the wire. No crank when battery connected but still no cranking when we turn the key. Do we have to wire our own ignition to the wire plug that goes in the starter?

 

I don't know anything about 1J swaps specifically.
Just trying to help from my knowledge of cars and Lexus in general.

That plug is what activates the starter. It shouldn't have constant power. It should only be powered when the key is turned to the start position.

Check the starter solenoid and make sure it's not stuck. Check wires to the coil side of the solenoid. there should never be power there unless the key is in the start position.

Starter circuits are pretty straight forward, so it shouldn't be too hard to find.

Check your neutral safety bypass and make sure it's wired correctly too. If you're feeding power there, that will cause the engine to crank too.

 

So we have it running, and we're going to add coolant. The only problem is that we have added about 3 quarts of liquid and the radiator is full. When we start the car it doesn't go down any, so we can't add any more. I know the temp guage usually doesn't work, but on ours it slowly creeps up as the engine idles and looks like its going to get to the red area in about a minute of idling. Any thoughts on this?

 

it will read hot until you fix it. (the temp gauge)

When i did my swap, i had the battery cranking issue too, i unplugged the starter and ran a flip switch to the starter so i had the key turned to the "on" position and a small flip switch under the dash that ran power directly to the starter so i could get the car started and that worked fine for me. I know there is another thread that talks about ways to use just the key to start it but i wasnt interested in changing my switch by the time i read about it... the switch was just extra security for me because no one knew how to start my car.

 

^^^Thats a great idea, I think I'll do that tomorrow. I managed to get a couple more quarts of coolant in, so I think I'm good, but its leaking out of the heater hoses when I come to a stop. I think some of those hoses are effed, so I'll fix those this weekend. I think I need to check my intercooler piping too, as I'm not hitting boost and its kind of sputtering. As far as I can tell though, I don't think I have the 3k rpm problem.

And btw, with just a cone filter off the side of the engine for now, the stock bypass valve is loud as hell! Sounds like a Greddy type RS!

 

coolant might be leaking because the seal on the water pump is for jap-spec coolant. US-spec coolant will deteriorate the seals, you need to replace the seal, and maybe the pump too, to a US-spec 2jzgte pump and seal.