Oil Filter relocation kit?
#1
Lexus Test Driver
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Oil Filter relocation kit?
Has anyone relocated their oil filters on the sc300? I'm thinking about picking this kit up http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans%20Dapt/969/1113/10002/-1# but i'm just curious if anyone has done this and how they feel about it?
If you have done it could you post some pictures?
If you have done it could you post some pictures?
#2
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I did a relocation using the same kit you linked, primarily because I did not know better at the time and getting to the 2jz-gte filter is even more of a hassle than the 2jzge. If I had it to do over again I would have spent more on it to get a billet vs. cast aluminum adapter plates. The flow through the Transdapt cast aluminum was restrictive and I spent about an hour grinding out a smoother path. Also, the fittings on the Transdapt hoses are fixed on one side and spin on the other, that means you have to be able to turn/rotate the entire hose to put on that side, a major PITA. Yellow teflon tape is a requirement.
It is still worth doing and that kit will get it done, though be very careful when tightening the hoses to the cast aluminum adapters. Cast aluminum is prone to cracking, it happened in a failed attempt to put a second kit on my Tundra.
I'll add some pictures later with where my filter was relo'd.
The plus side is it added nearly a quart because of the beefy lines and the huge oil filter (PH8) you can run on it, but that'll be the same on any kit. Removing the filter is a 2 minute no mess near miracle of convenience.
I like the billet plate pictured below, the 1/8th fittings for oil pressure or temp and those 90 degree connectors and the fact that they spin on both sides would make things much easier. Yea, I know its an oil cooler, not a relo, but I'd do both on a do-over, but again, I'm 2jzgte APU with track use.
It is still worth doing and that kit will get it done, though be very careful when tightening the hoses to the cast aluminum adapters. Cast aluminum is prone to cracking, it happened in a failed attempt to put a second kit on my Tundra.
I'll add some pictures later with where my filter was relo'd.
The plus side is it added nearly a quart because of the beefy lines and the huge oil filter (PH8) you can run on it, but that'll be the same on any kit. Removing the filter is a 2 minute no mess near miracle of convenience.
I like the billet plate pictured below, the 1/8th fittings for oil pressure or temp and those 90 degree connectors and the fact that they spin on both sides would make things much easier. Yea, I know its an oil cooler, not a relo, but I'd do both on a do-over, but again, I'm 2jzgte APU with track use.
Last edited by SCoupe; 07-22-08 at 09:53 AM.
#3
agreed, i had nightmare experience too...on 1jzgte... i got a cheap aluminum kit and installed it with the motor out and it blew a line. I was not able to get it back on with the motor in it because it was such a pain in the ***... finally i had my motor out again and went to reinstall same kit better and i broke off a fitting... so i ended up with some steel heavy duty stuff and torqued it all down with the black silicon high temp gasket sealer.. havent had it under boost yet though but seems solid.
so basically with the motor in this is a difficult job. i found you have to put the plate on motor first, then lines on plate, then lines to relocation adapter.. in that order.
and second note is dont buy a cheap made one, and let all that work be in vain when it jacks up
so basically with the motor in this is a difficult job. i found you have to put the plate on motor first, then lines on plate, then lines to relocation adapter.. in that order.
and second note is dont buy a cheap made one, and let all that work be in vain when it jacks up
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I did a relocation using the same kit you linked, primarily because I did not know better at the time and getting to the 2jz-gte filter is even more of a hassle than the 2jzge. If I had it to do over again I would have spent more on it to get a billet vs. cast aluminum adapter plates. The flow through the Transdapt cast aluminum was restrictive and I spent about an hour grinding out a smoother path. Also, the fittings on the Transdapt hoses are fixed on one side and spin on the other, that means you have to be able to turn/rotate the entire hose to put on that side, a major PITA. Yellow teflon tape is a requirement.
It is still worth doing and that kit will get it done, though be very careful when tightening the hoses to the cast aluminum adapters. Cast aluminum is prone to cracking, it happened in a failed attempt to put a second kit on my Tundra.
I'll add some pictures later with where my filter was relo'd.
The plus side is it added nearly a quart because of the beefy lines and the huge oil filter (PH8) you can run on it, but that'll be the same on any kit. Removing the filter is a 2 minute no mess near miracle of convenience.
I like the billet plate pictured below, the 1/8th fittings for oil pressure or temp and those 90 degree connectors and the fact that they spin on both sides would make things much easier. Yea, I know its an oil cooler, not a relo, but I'd do both on a do-over, but again, I'm 2jzgte APU with track use.
It is still worth doing and that kit will get it done, though be very careful when tightening the hoses to the cast aluminum adapters. Cast aluminum is prone to cracking, it happened in a failed attempt to put a second kit on my Tundra.
I'll add some pictures later with where my filter was relo'd.
The plus side is it added nearly a quart because of the beefy lines and the huge oil filter (PH8) you can run on it, but that'll be the same on any kit. Removing the filter is a 2 minute no mess near miracle of convenience.
I like the billet plate pictured below, the 1/8th fittings for oil pressure or temp and those 90 degree connectors and the fact that they spin on both sides would make things much easier. Yea, I know its an oil cooler, not a relo, but I'd do both on a do-over, but again, I'm 2jzgte APU with track use.
#6
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I don't think we are to post flea bay links. Go there and type in "oil cooler toyota" and you'll see them. They're twice the price of Transdapt.
I will pull mine later this year to add the cooler. Though not particularly easy on the 2jzgte I don't need to yank the engine to get to it.
edit: Agree with cbrasian 's comment (below) "can leak if your not careful."
I'd avoid this weak cast aluminum plate with flow obstructions sold in the kit by Transdapt:
I will pull mine later this year to add the cooler. Though not particularly easy on the 2jzgte I don't need to yank the engine to get to it.
edit: Agree with cbrasian 's comment (below) "can leak if your not careful."
I'd avoid this weak cast aluminum plate with flow obstructions sold in the kit by Transdapt:
Last edited by SCoupe; 07-22-08 at 06:53 PM.
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#9
Ive got a sc400 do the kits make a difference between the JZ vs the UZ, I am more interested in the cooler since it isn't terribly difficult to take out the oil filter. However I wouldn't mind moving it since the supra sway bar sits close.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
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Back From The Dead.
I don't think we are to post flea bay links. Go there and type in "oil cooler toyota" and you'll see them. They're twice the price of Transdapt.
I will pull mine later this year to add the cooler. Though not particularly easy on the 2jzgte I don't need to yank the engine to get to it.
edit: Agree with cbrasian 's comment (below) "can leak if your not careful."
I'd avoid this weak cast aluminum plate with flow obstructions sold in the kit by Transdapt:
I will pull mine later this year to add the cooler. Though not particularly easy on the 2jzgte I don't need to yank the engine to get to it.
edit: Agree with cbrasian 's comment (below) "can leak if your not careful."
I'd avoid this weak cast aluminum plate with flow obstructions sold in the kit by Transdapt:
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