madmax98

I searched for days in this forum and others regarding the subject and i need some verification before i start since it's my only car and the downtime has to be very short. So far my list includes:

* MKIII R154
* 1JZ Bellhousing
* Sc300 Auto Driveshaft ??? <Which i have.>
* R154 clutch kit.
*1JZ flywheel <935 motorsports $270 lightened flywheel>
* MKIII clutch pedal, brake pedal, master cylinder and R154 slave cylinder
*Auto crossmember with modified holes
* Auto speed sensor <?>
*W58 mount
*R154 shifter.

Now, during searching, i saw some conflicting info and i have some questions:

*********Does anybody make adapter plates that cost less than the 1JZ bellhousing which is $350?

*********Which is it, Auto driveshaft or the MKIII front half?

*********Also not sure about the Auto speed sensor, should it be the W58 one?

******** Do i need anything else?



Please feel free to add, subtract or modify the list, and thnx for your help..

joewitafro

JZ bellhousing. You need this.

Mk3 front half, 92/93 rear half (read blizzy's).

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Fixed....

tavarish

iTrader: (2)

rear half of auto and manual are exactly the same.

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

You need the front portion of the MK3 driveshaft, and any SC300 rear shaft that is connected to its front by four 14mm bolts (all 92/93 models are this way).

If your SC300 auto driveshaft is from a 92/93, you already have the rear section. But, your front driveshaft piece is about an inch shorter than the MK3 front piece that you will need. You could have the driveshaft lengthened at a shop, but I bet salvaging the MK3 piece is less money.

What are you going to do about the shifter extension?

For a speed sensor, you will need either a W58 speed sensor from an SC3 (~$200 from the dealer), or you can use the VSS from Marlin Crawler (what I did) for $60. Either route will likely require a Yellow Box to recalibrate the speedo.

madmax98

One thread < https://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355167> said that the auto d/s will do, but i'll get the MKIII front piece just in case. The same guy said the speedo from the sc will work if i can fab a bracket to hold it in place.
Is anyway we can be certain of the driveshaft combination? I have a 98 sc300 Auto, and are we sure that 92/93 are different?

Blizzy, i'm going to cut and extend the shifter back about 2 inches, does that sound right?

thnx for your help guys..

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

madmax, a few things.

First, find yourself some SC pedal assemblies. Just trust me.

There is something different about my d/s setup that I don't know exactly. My auto d/s was too short. Yet the R154 front half made it too long, even if I took out flex spacer in the back where it mates to the diff. In addition the bearing did not line up even close. The SC4 d/s wont work for a number of reasons so its out of the question. Maybe it was because mine was an SC4, maybe its because I am gte swapped, maybe the d/s I was sold wasn't actually out of a lexus and I was jipped, I don't know. But the R154 front half didnt work for me.

As for the shifter, you need to measure it yourself for your particular situation. 2" should be a good approximation depending on what style of shifter you get. But don't depend on what everyone else has said, some only go an inch, some go two, some in between. What you need to do, is get everything bolted up in place, and remove your console. Then, cut the hole directly above where your shifter would come through the tunnel. Now you can measure how far back it needs to be extended after it comes through the tunnel. Just to make sure you get this clear, the shifter will come out of your trans,straight up through the tunnel, then extended back where it comes through the shift boot. I can't tell you how many PM's I have gotten about that particular part.

O btw you can order shift boot from luxury mods, you will need that too.

Jon


One more thing, a genuine thank you for actually doing the research and having specific questions about conflicting ideas. It's always more satifying to help someone that is willing to put forth some effort.

madmax98

Thnx 2Jzlex for your help, i really appreciate it. I hope someone will chime in on the D/S issue, because i wanna have the least down time possible. Now, is there other issues with MKIII pedals nesides the tilting/slanting which i don't mind dealing with <i already have the pedals and the sc ones are hard to find>


Also, we need to get something str8, are the pumpkins different on different years SC's?

Honestly, I'd rather get a lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber D/S, do it right once and for all and not have to deal with the hassle. But i don't know if i can get that done here in socal? Any ideas <i plan on doing that regardless, so doing it now rather tha later is a plus>

Also, i know we need a JZ bellhousing but I saw in a thread that i can't find again that someone makes adapter plates that give us more freedom as to what clutch combo we can use!!!!!

Thnx again guys for your help, in the meantime, i'll look around the forums

joewitafro

A stock mk3 front shaft, and SC rear shaft "two peice DS".. will be more reliable than any 1 peice. It may not be as Strong when your talking about 600+rwhp, but the vibration will be less, especially at high speeds. Cheaper too!

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Less vibration and cheaper, yes. More reliable? No. You have no carrier bearing to worry about, no cap nut connecting the two driveshafts, and one less U-joint to fail. As far as comfortable ride though, there have been alot of reports of vibration. But, alot of the same people have taken them to local shops to get rebalanced and most of them have claimed a big improvent. I think the people that make them just don't take all that much time and care into balancing, which sucks

madmax,

I know what you mean about downtime, I did months of research and part collecting and then did the swap in 2 days. If I had to do it again, one day no problem, wiring and all. The thing about getting a custom D/S is, the best way to get the perfect measurement is have everything bolted up and then take your measurement. Then you would have to wait for it to be made, and shipped. Or you can chance it and measure from the back of the motor, all the way to the back of the diff, then subtract the length of your new trans from this, (taking into account the input shaft going into the rear of the trans by about 4-5 inches or so) and give it a shot.

madmax98

Keep'em coming, still some unanswered questions... Also, can i buy the R154 urethane mount? will it fit? I dont have the w58 mount

madmax98

R 154 urethane mounts are a no-no, because they're designed differently...