When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Any pics of the cold side? And on a side note for your piping, the ends without the rolled edges, I would get the welder to weld a little bead around the edge to prevent the piping blowing out of the coupler. I learned that the hard way...on a road trip...4 times.
then start up leave running for 5 minutes and take for a short drive.
Then do maintence,
Timing Belt
Tensioner
Tensionor roller
crank seal
cam seals
valve covers gaskets
trans fluid
oil and filter again
differential fluid change
just out of curiosity, why would you change out the seals and gaskets AFTER you drop in the engine?
because i was thinking as soon as i get my engine to replace all the gaskets and stuff before i dropped it in, just to make things easier and cleaner.
just out of curiosity, why would you change out the seals and gaskets AFTER you drop in the engine?
because i was thinking as soon as i get my engine to replace all the gaskets and stuff before i dropped it in, just to make things easier and cleaner.
The reason is that i do not want to mess with anything that could mess the engine up right away. Well i guess i am afraid that something could get messed up and i was the reason that it happened instead of the engine just coming like it. Just want to make sure it runs before i do anything to it.
here you go! I took off the tow hooks, and unbolted the power steering lines. The piping i used a 90 degree cut on the turn so it's a 45 degree with 2 inces extended on it. The rest was fun stuff... 2x75 degree angles.
The reason is that i do not want to mess with anything that could mess the engine up right away. Well i guess i am afraid that something could get messed up and i was the reason that it happened instead of the engine just coming like it. Just want to make sure it runs before i do anything to it.
hmmm... never thought of that. Good idea especially if the engine has a start-up warranty. im sure that the importer would try to get out of paying any way they can, if the motor was bad.
update: i hate taking my time but i don't want to be left with nothing to do except wait until the harness gets here...
engine back together, mostly
Manifold ready to goto get drilled and tapped
something to do... custom gauge mounting cups i made
DIY: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=344495
New waterpump assembly installed
cleared out for fmic
So I guess that's one of the difference with our Intake manifold. Mines is taped and drilled. I can't wait to start this swap.
well today i put the driveshaft in, recieved my oem parts from elmhurst toyota. Hooked up the fuel return line, grounded the engine top and bottom and one of my friends stopped by and wanted to see how the tial looked since i had it welded in a front bumper vent, so i ended up throwing the target soarer headlights, front bumper, origin fenders and side skirts back on, uhh it looks good! but is dirty.
just wondering but how come you went vvt-i? I herd the internals were made weaker...
Well my car has the 2jzge vvti engine and I like the vvti set-up. As far as I know from the net. The 2jzgte vvti has the same short block as the non vvti. The only difference is the vvti
Well my car has the 2jzge vvti engine and I like the vvti set-up. As far as I know from the net. The 2jzgte vvti has the same short block as the non vvti. The only difference is the vvti