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iTrader: (5)

just like the title says..i tried searching around and only found it for mostly hondas and other cars. i know one of the hoses replaces the hose that goes into the intake/valve cover but where do i install the other hose? and do you guys think those cheap ebay oil catch can will work fine? or should i just get a ebay breather to replace that hose that goes into the intake?

scfocus

iTrader: (3)

I thought it went between the intake and valve cover?

speedfoos

There are about 8 different ways to install catch cans and everyone has their opinion on how it should go. Are you boosted or NA? Ebay catchcans are fine, just stuff them with the coarse grit steel wool so it catches the blow-by and your catchcan functions as it should and not just a fluid transfer can.

Run hose from VC to catchcan. Run hose from catchcan to a breather filter and then tuck it in your bumper. Plug the port on your intake tube. No sense in sucking that crap back into your intake. Everyday is not Earth Day.

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iTrader: (5)

i'm still n/a for now..so you're saying run one hose from the valve cover to the catch can then the other hose run it to a breather and basically let it hang down etc..? what if i was turbo'd, where would i put the second hose?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Alright let me break this down:

Cars come stock with what is called a PCV valve, this stands for positive crankcase ventilation. When your motor is at high RPMs, there is more oil pressure and there what's called blowby, where oil slips past your piston rings. The purpose of the PCV is to relieve some of this pressure by recirculating it back into your intake manifold via vaccuum that your motor naturally produces. It also helps with emissions but the main focus is to relieve that pressure. The bad thing about doing this is that when it is introduced into the intake stream, it polutes the incoming air and lowers your octane rating increasing your chances for detonation, not to mention gumming up your intake mani and such.

With all that being said, there are several different types of catch cans: vented, baffled, sealed and unbaffled, sealed and baffled. Baffled means that there is some sort of filtering system that seperates the oil from the air.

So, now on to hooking them up. There are 4 common ways (among others) that everyone pretty much does it:

The first way to do it is unhook your PCV valve and vac hose from the valve covers and run both of them into a sealed catch can, with no filter and not recirculating it back into the intake system. This does not help with crankcase ventilation at all as some people think, it just gives the oil a place to go and accumulate. But at the same time, it is keeping all the blowby out of the intake stream so that is a big plus.

The second common way is to run both lines from the valve cover to a vented catch can. This doesn't help at all with crankcase pressure either but it, like the previous one, does keep all the oil from getting back into the combustion chamber.

The third way is to run both to a vented catch can, and then recirculate it back into a vaccuum source. Now when you vent it, recirculating it becomes kind of dumb because now you are not pulling the pressure stream from the the motor but rather outside air. It isn't necessarily a bad thing it's just that the purpose of recirculating it is to aid in relieving the pressure and then you go and break the cycle of suction by introducing fresh air.

The fourth way to do it is hook both lines up to a sealed catch can and recircualte it. Now, this is the best way to deal with the pressure, however at the same time you have find some way to seperate the oil from the air as it recirculates. It naturally somewhat do it on its own as oil is heavier and will drop in the can but that is where designs of the catch can come into play (baffled and unbaffled, baffled is definately better btw).

On a naturally aspirated motor, if you are recirculating it you can plum it back in anywhere after your MAF/MAS. If you are turboed, it needs to plumbed in front of your turbo, before your filter. This is the only place on a turbocharged motor that actually sees vaccuum all the time. Also something else on turbocharged cars is to just hook the lines directly up to the intake pipe with no can. It's to each his own on this thing but the best way IS to run both lines to a sealed and baffled catch can and then recirculate it.

Jon

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iTrader: (5)

^^^nice and long writeup..thanks 2jzlex! now i understand more clearly now..btw i was thinking about one like this one..cheapest one they sell.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-C...=p4506.c0.m245

lexhere27

That's great information 2jzlex, thanks for sharing! Now how would I do this on a supercharged 1uz? Would I plumb it into the intake pipe after the MAF? I have a BFI and there isn't anything I know of that I can plumb it to before the MAF. I am a visual learner and if you could point it out in a pic that would help a ton.

Thanks,
Alex

speedfoos

Here's a couple diagrams I made for two boosted setups. First one in mine, second one is what I might go to. I need to measure how much vacuum I'm pulling when I move back to the states next week. Too much vacuum on a PCV system is also bad.

Levistey0

Awesome Write-Up! I'm definitely going to use this!

Good Stuff!

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Alex,

The highlighted part would be correct. If you did it before the MAF, it would be sucked through the sensor and that = no bueno in the long run, probably cause some damage to the sensor over time and also would mess with the air temp. A s/c setup would be the same as the turbo. On a boosted motor, there is only a small section that actually is constant vaccuum, before the turbo on the inlet pipe. Some have debated that there isn't any vaccuum there either because you a pulling it from the atmoshpere. But, if you have an inlet pipe that is over a foot long or so, it will create vaccuum naturally. The longer the pipe, the better the vaccuum.

Jon

lexhere27

Jon,

Thanks a ton makes a lot more sense the second/third time I read it. Are there any companies that make a sealed baffled catch can. I looked at the Greddy and HKS websites along with googled but they don't say anything about it. From the website pictures it only looks as a catch can and nothing to recirculate. Maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks,
Alex

speedfoos

I bought an Ebay catch can, cut it open, JB Welded in some baffles, and then closed it up. Instant baffles.

Here:

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/46...thread-10.html

It's post #149 about 3/4s of the way down the page.

lexhere27

Thanks for the pics...anyone else have any input or pictures?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

I know I have seen some, but they are pretty wayyyy too overpriced. You could have your own designed for half of what they would charge for new. O and another thing, PLEASE don't use steel wool.......There are sooo many other things you could use just as well, i.e. barillo pad, scotch brite pad, custom baffles, anything. All it takes is one little sliver of that steel and you can say bye bye to your engine. Yes, even the extremely fine steel wool.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

lol....You crazy Honda kids and your jb weld/pvc plastic plumbing/ebay powered/ hockey puck motor mounts/ pencil broken off in vac line/ "custom"/ everything motors. Rofl, jk man, but seriuosly...