IDLE surging and loosing Electric?
#1
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IDLE surging and loosing Electric?
I pulled into the driveway in my 300 and it was idling up and down up and down and the passenger window wasnt going up. I popped the hood and checked all the vac lines I could see and the idle sensor was pluged in right. went back in the car and the car started again but the lights were going dim and then I shut it off. Now it wont start?? I'de asume it was something to do with the battery or altenator first before I replace sensors right? Anyone have similar problems?
#2
jump start it, and while its rinning, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, if the car dies, this means that the alternator is not charging the battery.When things happen such as your situation, then its most likely alternator because you've been running on battery juice for the last day or so and theres just not enough left to keep everything running, so the dash must've lit up with some sort of battery/aletrantor/power picture/led.
#3
sounds like alternator is going out but it can also be your crank pulley check to see if its not broken then check the alternator with a meter on it , it should read around 14.26 if its running ok. if possible charge the battery til it reads around 12.26 start the car and it should read close to 14.26 if its good
if it drops then the alternator is n't charging it,after you change the alternator you can also load test it to see if the battery is good by disconnecting the fuel going to engine and try cranking it and see what it drops down to if it drops past 10 then the battery is toast.... course the easiest way is to take both parts off and running to a local autozone and they will test both for you lol if your that lazy
if it drops then the alternator is n't charging it,after you change the alternator you can also load test it to see if the battery is good by disconnecting the fuel going to engine and try cranking it and see what it drops down to if it drops past 10 then the battery is toast.... course the easiest way is to take both parts off and running to a local autozone and they will test both for you lol if your that lazy
#4
sounds like alternator is going out but it can also be your crank pulley check to see if its not broken then check the alternator with a meter on it , it should read around 14.26 if its running ok. if possible charge the battery til it reads around 12.26 start the car and it should read close to 14.26 if its good
if it drops then the alternator is n't charging it,after you change the alternator you can also load test it to see if the battery is good by disconnecting the fuel going to engine and try cranking it and see what it drops down to if it drops past 10 then the battery is toast.... course the easiest way is to take both parts off and running to a local autozone and they will test both for you lol if your that lazy
if it drops then the alternator is n't charging it,after you change the alternator you can also load test it to see if the battery is good by disconnecting the fuel going to engine and try cranking it and see what it drops down to if it drops past 10 then the battery is toast.... course the easiest way is to take both parts off and running to a local autozone and they will test both for you lol if your that lazy
Aye, soem autoparts stores have crummy alternator testers. I took a bad alternator to murrays and they read it was good, and the thing would put out maybe 11 volts max.
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I didnt have Time to take it off yesterday So I went down to autozone with the alt that I took of my 2JZGTE to get that tested and buy a multimeter. Mine failed and the meter I bought was broken when I got home so Ill have to get one after work today to be able to test it.
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sounds like alternator is going out but it can also be your crank pulley check to see if its not broken then check the alternator with a meter on it , it should read around 14.26 if its running ok. if possible charge the battery til it reads around 12.26 start the car and it should read close to 14.26 if its good
if it drops then the alternator is n't charging it,after you change the alternator you can also load test it to see if the battery is good by disconnecting the fuel going to engine and try cranking it and see what it drops down to if it drops past 10 then the battery is toast.... course the easiest way is to take both parts off and running to a local autozone and they will test both for you lol if your that lazy
if it drops then the alternator is n't charging it,after you change the alternator you can also load test it to see if the battery is good by disconnecting the fuel going to engine and try cranking it and see what it drops down to if it drops past 10 then the battery is toast.... course the easiest way is to take both parts off and running to a local autozone and they will test both for you lol if your that lazy
#7
well its not exactly a ground it would be a draw on the system a major draw easiest way to check it is to to check the voltage on the battery while its hooked up and not running and see if the voltage drops if it does then there is a good draw and youd then have to check fuses to see which one is getting power still while the car is off time consuming but this would be a slim chance most likely its a bad alternator and battery combo , or the possibility of a bad front crank pulley
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