Shaar

I just read through that large thread and the information is rather scattered.

I am choosing to go with the LS400 bracket to bypass the fabrication headaches. I see that it has a place for 4 screws/studs to attach to the LS400 fan clutch. How do i attach a pulley to this?

Also, when i do pull all the hydrofan stuff, i'm confused on which wiring to remove, or which wiring to put a resistor on, etc. I don't want any error or warning lights on my dash.

Shaar

I sourced the fan bracket locally. I get store cost on parts since I work at O'reilly's. Dorman part number is 300-804. Walk in price is 126.99, my price is 72.50. I think I'll order it.

Also found a fan controller with wiring and switch/temp sensor - its 16.98 my price. And as far as fans go, can I use a single 16"? Or do i have to use a dual 12?

Shaar

I just priced a dual 12" electric fan assembly from my store - 121.30 my cost. Probably the best way to go.

Here's the dual 12 i was looking at:


In the end i'll be out about 220 plus some tax. Now i just need to make sure I don't miss anything and do it all right... Thats why i need to get all the wiring straightened out, and find out what pulley to use and which will line up correctly using the LS400 bracket.

Thanks again in advance guys. If i can fix my car hopefully I can finally move on with my life! lol

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

You'll just need to remove the hydraulic pump completely and bolt this LS bracket to it. It'll align perfectly and you can use the original belt.

Then remove all the hoses that are connected to the original pump. Those hoses are only connected to the fan pump so you can remove them, along with the pump cooler behind the bumper on the driver side. There shouldn't be any check light coming on.

You already cleared out the fan pump, so the next neccessary step is to get the supercharger bracket from www.lextreme.com and bolt the supercharger to the engine...LOL.

Shaar

Word. SOUNDS easy enough. I'll order the fan bracket tonight.

would a single 16" fan be ok? or do i have to go with twin 12's?

Also, where do i get a pulley for the fan bracket? I can't find any ls400's local at salvage yards, and i can't get one aftermarket unless someone has a part number...

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

I think this seller on Ebay sells the whole unit. It seems 1 corner is cut off so you may need to ask the seller. I don't have any unit on hands so I can't tell the difference. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...QQcmdZViewItem

Twin 12" fans will be safer with twin fan controllers. In case 1 fan is burned, which isn't rare for any electric fan, the other fan can still work. If you can actually run a twin 14", it'll even be better. Twin 14" will fit just fine. You can position 1 temp sensor probe near the radiator outlet and the other near the radiator inlet, so 1 fan will work at low temp and the other will only work at high temp.

Shaar

Ok, so i'm about ready to start on this project. I was browsing through the service manual, and to remove the hydraulic pump, it says to do the following:

remove battery
remove under engine cover
drain coolant
remove belt
disconnect a/c compressor
remove LH ignition coil
remove intake air connector
remove center spark plug cover
remove left spark plug cover
remove right spark plug cover
remove vsv for evap system
remove rh timing cover
remove lh timing cover
remove upper radiator hose
remove idler pulley
remove another rh timing cover
remove another lh timing cover
disconnect pressure hoses from hydraulic pump
remove hydraulic pump



WTF do i really need to do all that to get this thing off???

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

Fortuneately, you already have the repair manual so what are you waiting for? Unfortunately, you'll need to get everything off that stays in the way of the pump. It is a day for the whole project.

If you're already there, change the timing belt, too. You'll need the manual for this if you haven't done it before.

You don't really need to read the manual to waste time. Just remember to put things back in the correct place. The easy way is to take as many pictures as you can while you take things off. It'll help you visualize much quicker than reading the manual.

Shaar

After i'm in this far, is the timing belt easy to change? and is there a possibility of me really messing things up? lol

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

It's easy to change, but you'll need to do it sequence, or you'll be in trouble big time. Setting up the timing is critical to how your engine runs. Follow the manual and if you have questions, let me know.

It's good to change the water pump, too.

Shaar

I think i will change the timing belt while i'm there. I agree that its not a bad idea to change it. I think mine has some cracks across it and I definitely don't want it to break (even though my engine isn't interference, the downtime later would be horrible ).

Steve thanks for all your help. I'll be tearing into this thing tonight with a few energy drinks. I'll at least get everything disassembled and removed tonight, install the electric fans and run wiring, and clean and degrease everything in sight. Then tomorrow night i'll start putting it back together and do the timing belt.

Wish me luck!

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

Use OEM timing belt because it has the marks without confusion. Some aftermarket belts can confuse you with the marks on it.

There're 3 main things for installing the timing belt.
1) Turning the engine to TDC. Make sure it's really TDC for the 1st piston.
2) Putting the belt marks correctly to the cams and the crank.
3) After the belt is on and the tensioner is tightened, always turn the crank at least 2 complete rotations to TDC. 1 complete rotation is 2 times of 360 degree of crank turning. It doesn't hurt to turn more than 2 complete rotations. The belt marks won't stay the same, but the cam notches and the crank notch must always align to the engine marks time after time.

Keep in mind that you're saving around $1000 by doing all of these by yourself. Good luck!...

Shaar

4:27AM CST here and some breaking news:

I got started a little 'late' because i fell asleep, so i've only been at this for about 2 hours. I got the old fan out, lines pulled, belt off, and now cleaning up some antifreeze spills. I found something rather suspicious....

Part of an old old belt is wrapped around INSIDE of my AC compressor. Its back inside/behind the pulley. I don't really see a way to get it out unless i pull the clutch. This strand of belt is exposed about 6 inches and it was literally invisible until i pulled all this crap out of the way.

SO, the question of the morning:

Should i continue, spend hours upon hours replacing the hydraulic fan assembly with electric, or should i just pull the clutch on the AC compressor, remove the belt chunk, and then reassemble everything?

Just a note, i'm working on a budget here. I would love to not replace the hydraulic assembly and leave it be, but I don't know if it is still my problem or not. I can see how the belt in the AC compressor could be causing some strain on the serpentine belt system, but i don't know that its causing my problem.

Regardless of this new find, I have to keep in mind that the belt was rubbing on the hydraulic fan pulley when at running speed. What i need to know/figure out is if the AC compressor was somehow the culprit or if my hydraulic pump has a problem...

HELP ASAP lol

Shaar

Another thing Steve ---

Can i just run a shorter belt to bypass the hydraulic pump? Then i can just ignore replacing the hydraulic pump and just run electric fans. That would save me soooooo much time.

I took my old belt and ran it from the ac pulley to the crank pulley, and it clears within a few millimeters of the oil filter housing. Other than that, I don't see why i can't run a shorter belt...?

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

You should pull out that belt piece. It may make noise when the engine runs because the AC pulley turns when the engine turns. However, it sat like that for awhile so it could have been ground off to the point it won't make noise anymore. But who knows!
If the belt rubs on the hydraulic fan pulley, that means the belt isn't aligned properly. It must warps around the pulley, instead of rubbing against it. And what exactly what you mean by this? Take a picture and show me where it rubs at.

I just sent you a P.M.