Finally doing "it" this weekend!!!
10-18-08, 11:21 PM
#17
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Had a good day at the track I set the class record but then ended up in second place because I was bumped by 3 tenths. Over all it was a lot of fun and even at 3.5 lbs is was a lot more than stock.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPXNq5MjWVA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPXNq5MjWVA
Last edited by LCSC; 10-19-08 at 01:40 PM.
02-22-09, 01:45 PM
#23
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Well I went to the track on 01-31-09 and spun the #1 rod bearing. I wasn't too putout because I already new the the shop that rebuilt the engine had done a crappy job. (Plano Machine Shop in Plano TX.) I was already planning on pulling the engine because it had bad valve stem seals already and oil was leaking from every seal so I figured I would have to rebuild it but spinning the bearing pushed my hand.
The plan is that I'm going to rebuild my original short block (When I opened my original engine it looked like you would expect an engine to look like that had 15k miles on it not the 140k that is had, the car had a very easy life before I got my hands on it). I decided to to go ahead and rebuild it because of the miles and I already had it out and ready. I went with stock rings, ACL bearings, and all ARP hardware. Josh@FSM told me the my C/R should be about 9.2 to 1
I also am taking the opportunity to to upgrade my clutch I have a DF Centerforce (I would highly recomend this clutch if you want a cheap upgrade for you stocker but about 400whp are it's limits, not the 500lbs of torque it claims). I Ordered the stage 4 sprung six puck from FSM and he also gave me some pointers and answered some questions that I had.
Future mods are to:
-Rebuild the GTE shortblock with upgraded internals
-Upgrade the fuel with a FPR, fuel rail and I'm thinking 680 or maybe 720 injectors.
-Put ether a R154 or a V160 (at this point I think I will have to go with a r154 being that the cost of the v160 is very high)
This is with the engine and tranny out of the car and the engine on the stand is almost ready to rebuilt.
There's something missing here but I can't put my finger on it.
Old engine
The new block which is actually the original block from my car (I new there was a reason I held on to it).
The short block is all assembled and wrapped in plastic, you know like Barbie.
Here you can see that I spun the #1 rod and the piston actually started hitting the head (where it is shinny on the edge).
The plan is that I'm going to rebuild my original short block (When I opened my original engine it looked like you would expect an engine to look like that had 15k miles on it not the 140k that is had, the car had a very easy life before I got my hands on it). I decided to to go ahead and rebuild it because of the miles and I already had it out and ready. I went with stock rings, ACL bearings, and all ARP hardware. Josh@FSM told me the my C/R should be about 9.2 to 1
I also am taking the opportunity to to upgrade my clutch I have a DF Centerforce (I would highly recomend this clutch if you want a cheap upgrade for you stocker but about 400whp are it's limits, not the 500lbs of torque it claims). I Ordered the stage 4 sprung six puck from FSM and he also gave me some pointers and answered some questions that I had.Future mods are to:
-Rebuild the GTE shortblock with upgraded internals
-Upgrade the fuel with a FPR, fuel rail and I'm thinking 680 or maybe 720 injectors.
-Put ether a R154 or a V160 (at this point I think I will have to go with a r154 being that the cost of the v160 is very high)
This is with the engine and tranny out of the car and the engine on the stand is almost ready to rebuilt.
There's something missing here but I can't put my finger on it.
Old engine
The new block which is actually the original block from my car (I new there was a reason I held on to it).
The short block is all assembled and wrapped in plastic, you know like Barbie.
Here you can see that I spun the #1 rod and the piston actually started hitting the head (where it is shinny on the edge).
Last edited by LCSC; 02-22-09 at 02:06 PM.
02-22-09, 04:17 PM
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04-07-09, 09:27 AM
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If you want to do the 2jzgte swap it will cost 5-6k but given the extra displacement and the availability of parts and other reasons make it worth it but the 1jz is a great option and if you can go 1.5jz.
04-07-09, 09:35 AM
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where did you get that wack info- as the OP posted in the thread and picture, he is fitting his original sc300 shortblock in place of the damaged one.
What rock have u been under guy? GE and GTE 2j'z have identical naked iron shortblocks, same crankshaft from toyota, same rods too.
What rock have u been under guy? GE and GTE 2j'z have identical naked iron shortblocks, same crankshaft from toyota, same rods too.