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Old 10-31-08, 12:11 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 1997Soarer
Welcome to the NA club! And, yes, depending on your exhaust, you will have some raspy-ness in your exhaust when it resonates (hondas do it all the time), I believe it has to do with exhaust velocities - the faster the louder. From my experience, i'd replace the manifold-to-head gaskets that came with the header with new toyota metal ones - they seal better and won't blow out in time. Now if you wanna get rid of your second cat altogether, try the Blitz or HKS midpipe. It'll bolt up perfectly between the MVP header and your cat-back, and they are available at MVPMotorsports. Oh, and I just used a typical 3-inch 2 hole exhaust pipe gasket between the header and my midpipe. No leak issues as of yet...
I have a HKS midpipe (offroad though) and i want to have 2nd cat, so im purchasing a Magnaflow high flow cat.

Im going to purchase a few 3" 2bolt gaskets. They look universal, and exactly the same as the ones that came with my muffler.

Originally Posted by deruvian
The header is 2.5" with a 2-bolt flange (where the cat used to be). You will need an adapter to bolt up to a 3" setup.

I have these headers, connected to a 3" setup. It's 3" all the way back, with the first cat being replaced by a Magnaflow high-flow metallic substrate cat, the second cat being replaced by a Magnaflow high-flow ceramic cat, then a small glass pack, then a split, then dual race series Magnaflow mufflers.

It sounds really good, but it was very loud at first (had to get the glass pack installed). It was still loud after that, but it has quieted down just a touch over the last few months. When there is little load on the engine it's mostly silent in the car, but when I get on the pedal it's quite loud.

I don't experience any of the rasp that people often talk about with these headers. Maybe you'll get it on a 2.25" or 2.5" system, but apparently not on a 3" system. I dunno.

The only downside so far is that it appears to be running rich, as there is a lot of carbon on the tips already and I sometimes hear what sounds a bit like backfiring. I'm really not too concerned as I already have the SAFC installed, I just need it tuned (damn you midterms!)

Enjoy your new shinies - it'll be an adventure at the least.
thanks!

What is this adapter called, and where can i get it?
because as i posted above, i have a 3" HKS MP that im going to have a muffler shop weld the Magnaflow Cat into it. i want to be prepared!

By the way you describe it it must sound AWESOME! i really cant wait to get everything put together. Im sick and tired of hearing my horrible exhaust leak.




Here is a pic of the exhaust that just came in (thanks GForce)
Old 10-31-08, 04:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by unreal-
What is this adapter called, and where can i get it? because as i posted above, i have a 3" HKS MP that im going to have a muffler shop weld the Magnaflow Cat into it. i want to be prepared!

By the way you describe it it must sound AWESOME! i really cant wait to get everything put together. Im sick and tired of hearing my horrible exhaust leak.




Here is a pic of the exhaust that just came in (thanks GForce)
Is that the midpipe you're going to use? It's difficult to tell because there are few reference items near it, but it looks smaller than 3" to me (especially because it looks smaller than the pipe on the inlet side of the muffler, which I can't imagine would be larger than 3")

If the midpipe you're going to use is 3", you will need a 2.5" to 3" adapter of some kind. Whatever exhaust shop you take it to will likely have it.

However, the front side of that midpipe looks like it is curved upward... it may require modification if it is indeed 3". If you put an adapter between the headers and the midpipe it will sit way too low because of the angle.

Also, I don't know if passing a smog test is of any importance to you, but, if it is, you won't pass one with the cat so far back (and only one of them).

Otherwise, have fun dude.
Old 10-31-08, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by deruvian
Is that the midpipe you're going to use? It's difficult to tell because there are few reference items near it, but it looks smaller than 3" to me (especially because it looks smaller than the pipe on the inlet side of the muffler, which I can't imagine would be larger than 3")

If the midpipe you're going to use is 3", you will need a 2.5" to 3" adapter of some kind. Whatever exhaust shop you take it to will likely have it.

However, the front side of that midpipe looks like it is curved upward... it may require modification if it is indeed 3". If you put an adapter between the headers and the midpipe it will sit way too low because of the angle.

Also, I don't know if passing a smog test is of any importance to you, but, if it is, you won't pass one with the cat so far back (and only one of them).

Otherwise, have fun dude.
Yes, the MP is 3" and i was told i would need modification to fit it to the headers. Im going to have the shop place the cat as close to the headers as possible. Most likely around the oil stain portion of the MP.

Im pretty sure the exhaust shop will be able to figure out a way to mate the 2.5 --> 3" with the angle. I dont want any clearence issues, because i plan on going lower in the future. How did you end up mating your headers to your MP and exhaust?
Old 11-01-08, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nobleblack
haha well there goes wondering if it'll fit a stock setup.
It will fit a stock setup.
Old 11-01-08, 04:22 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by unreal-
Yes, the MP is 3" and i was told i would need modification to fit it to the headers. Im going to have the shop place the cat as close to the headers as possible. Most likely around the oil stain portion of the MP.

Im pretty sure the exhaust shop will be able to figure out a way to mate the 2.5 --> 3" with the angle. I dont want any clearence issues, because i plan on going lower in the future. How did you end up mating your headers to your MP and exhaust?
If you put the cat before the MP, get a metallic substrate one. Ceramic won't hold up for long, and they are less effective than metallic ones. Metallic is about 2x as much (still only like $100), but it will be worth not having to replace the ceramic one all the time.

I have a ceramic one further back because its safer from the heat back there (couple hundred degree difference!)

Running 3" you will be very close to the ground. I have everything literally tucked up as far as it will go, my car is dropped 1", and I have to be careful over most speed bumps and lot entrances and such. The good news is that most cats are only about 3.5" - 4" tall anyway, even for 3" in/out, so that isn't too hard to place if you do it strategically. The tough stuff are resonators or glass packs.

You will need to have flex in your system, otherwise you risk cracking pipe or god forbid your headers. I have a flex pipe immediately after the headers and the adapter, but before the cat, and it is literally touching the heat shield from the old cat. It is a very tight fit.

The stock system has this oval shaped pipe that is tucked and of course curved just perfectly. Exhaust shop 3" pipe is the same everywhere, so it's an "interesting" job to get it to fit. But, it can be done if your mechanic isn't a total dope.
Old 11-01-08, 08:40 PM
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Thanks for the info deruv. I guess i'll add a flex pipe to the system as well. this might cost a bit of $$ now lol

I think for the time being im going to run the headers with the stock setup (MP back) and save for the extensive exhaust work. Hopefully this works out in the end.

So i would need to really cut up the down pipe and add the cat/flex pipe/adapter and attach it to the headers.

I got to get this quoted, oh my :O

ps: i dont have smog, but the NJ Emissions. It isint too strict, but im not not due till Dec of next year.

Last edited by unreal-; 11-01-08 at 08:52 PM.
Old 11-03-08, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by unreal-
Thanks for the info deruv. I guess i'll add a flex pipe to the system as well. this might cost a bit of $$ now lol

I think for the time being im going to run the headers with the stock setup (MP back) and save for the extensive exhaust work. Hopefully this works out in the end.

So i would need to really cut up the down pipe and add the cat/flex pipe/adapter and attach it to the headers.

I got to get this quoted, oh my :O

ps: i dont have smog, but the NJ Emissions. It isint too strict, but im not not due till Dec of next year.
Since you're going to get a quote, just ask the exhaust shop if they have any 3" flex pipes. If they don't, they should be able to order one and get it quickly. They're not a special item. It will be nicer than one you'd get online anyway.

Yes, you'll need to cut up that midpipe a fair bit. Headers -> adapter -> flex pipe -> cat -> midpipe -> etc.

Let us know how it sounds with the stock system.
Old 11-03-08, 08:01 PM
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Will do. I'll take the MP up there on my day off and have them quote me. i'll ask about the flex pipe as well.

I'll be sure to record a vid of the stock setup--> headers.


Stay tuned!
Old 11-04-08, 03:47 PM
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Update

Tried with my friend to free the exhaust manifold, to no avail. The header bolts came off with the proper DRENCHING with freeze-off but the pesky header--->midpipe bolts were practically welded with rust and corrosion. He bust out the freeze-off/PB Blaster/Hammer/Chistel... then the propane torch and that didnt do much, except make a bunch of smoke. Bolt didnt even flinch.

So he is going to get a sawsall in the next week or two and we'll get this bastard off!
Old 11-05-08, 06:50 PM
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I would just break those rusty bolts off with anything you can find. I wouldnt feel right reusing them anyway.
Old 11-05-08, 10:10 PM
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We tried everything, to no avail. that's why he's getting the sawsall.

At least this gives me time to save up for the MP work.
Old 11-06-08, 09:03 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by unreal-
We tried everything, to no avail. that's why he's getting the sawsall.

At least this gives me time to save up for the MP work.
Not even a cheater bar with a sledgehammer did it?
Old 11-06-08, 11:04 AM
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He didnt have that lying around
Old 11-10-08, 01:28 PM
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Q? Is there a reason why you would replace the o2 sensors or can't you just reuse the old ones?
Old 11-10-08, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 510SC300
Q? Is there a reason why you would replace the o2 sensors or can't you just reuse the old ones?
Certain years on the SC came with a certain style O2 sensor. On my 93 I have the kind that require two bolts to hold it down to the runner on the header. On a 95 you would have the kind that just screw on to the runner instead of having to be bolted down. Universal sensors work just as good as plug and play sensors.


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