Punky

iTrader: (4)

My 95 dyno'd at 198 RWHP and 220 Ft Lbs. All I had at this time was a center cat delete and K&N filter. Also had broken motor mounts (that I was not aware of at the time of dyno) a dirty throttle body, an original spark plugs with about 115k miles on them.

I am willing to bet now that I have S&S headers (Which claim 17 HP 29 Ft Lbs) full exhaust piping redone, factory is very restrictive. Route the intake closer to the bumper for more air. New spark plugs and motor mounts. And a clean intake manifold/TB. I will lay about 220 RWHP down next time I get a chance to dyno.

Cams, headers, exhaust piping, intake, super afc or other tuning. should give you a good gain. I would estimate around 60-70 RWHP

Brendon

iTrader: (1)

Really the best and safest place to start is with the exhaust and intake. A cat-back done at a local shop shouldn't cost more than $300. Thats how much I spent. Headers usually cost $600-1000 depending on brand, but they can be a pain to install. S & S ones from l-tuned are $600. I dont know how much a shop would charge to install. Intake, or rather a BFI (big f'king intake) is a custom thing so price is unknown.

A high stall TC doesnt actually create more power, but transfer it to the low end (usually 1st and 2nd gear), therefore it wont really wear your engine or tranny any more so. A dyno on 3rd or 4th gear probably wont show improvement; however, it will feel and perform like you increased your power since it will be taking advantage of the torque multiplication of the lower gears. Your 0-30 will increase dramatically and you'll probably shave a few tens off the 0-60 and 1/4 mile; however, your highway acceleration from 60-100 will suffer. A Dragon TC from l-tuned costs $700. Installation from a shop is unknown. Like the high stall TC, an LSD wont actually make more power; however, if you're running a high stall, FI, or any significant power multiplier you're much more likely to burn out so an LSD becomes more useful to have. Depending on where you get one from new or used, it can cost anywhere from $300 up to $1000.

I really would stay away from ECU mods; that's just my personal preference.

Kaydee

exactly what it means...just put a large stick inside the catalytic converter and start hammering, break all the pieces inside and get them out...my driver side cats disintegrated on me yesterday, made some really weird noises so I had to go back to the shop and have it hollowed out...damn, not even 2 months yet. Magnaflow FAIL!!!

DryBlaze

Um its probably covered but oh well.

-free up the exhaust
-bfi
-make the car lighter
-a small shot of the nitrous would be the cheapest horsepower.

DasBach

iTrader: (7)

Agreed. The engines in our cars aren't running at peak performance due to restrictions from factory components. You let her breathe and... fart better you are making gains. A little shot of nitrous is def a quick way to gain some additional HP. Also, making sure your cooling system (I'm in AZ so it helps a lot) is up to par can help make your car perform better.

The one thing I haven't seen anyone mention is learning your car to the best of your ability. If you can time your shifts using the dildomatic and how much gas to give it off the start to prevent a little spin you can def ensure you launch better. I can really cut down shift times on the auto if I give it gas and drop the gas at just the right time.

This thing likes to take its time shifting into second. if I put it on PWR and drop the gas a tad before the red it will shift right into second and I will be flooring it right after. Really cuts down on shift time.

Doesn't matter, soon to be 5speed and supercharged

daudi81

I'm confused, why would mods to the ECU be hard on the car? Aren't you just remapping the fuel delivery configuration?

I guess I don't know much about cars, but just thinking about it doesn't make sense to me.