RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Bill, it would be great if I could try your igniter and map sensor as a test! I'll pm you

The knock sensor came off my old motor. I don't think it's the knock sensor right now. I think it's either the map or igniter or the wiring to one of them....I think

Could be the TPS too, but I want to rule out the map and igniter first.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

PM'd you back...just thinking about it have you looked at your plugs? If it was the igniter wouldn't one of the plugs just be wet due to no spark? Listened to the video as well and wondering if you were running open DP.

Not up to speed on the 1JZ but some engines are touchy to O2 temps and running open exhaust would not allow the O2 to really warm up...it sounded like backfire (small backfire) but again that is video and you are right there.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

The plugs are fine. I am running open downpipe right now, it's not backfiring, it's just popping, a lot.

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

if its breaking up, the whole wet plug would not be something to look for in this situation.
a plug not firing would have the car running on 5 cylinders, quite a bit different.

Did you extend your harness yourself ?

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

Earlier in the thread he said he sent it to Dr. Tweak.

Is there any way you can pull codes from a 1JZ ECU?

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I ran codes this morning. It just flashes so there's no stored codes.

Thanks to ZMEGOBY for lending me some of his parts!
I tried the Avalon igniter and it made no diff.
I tried one of his coils, swapping them one at a time..and that made no diff.

His MAP sensor was different than mine so I couldn't try it.

I do need to verify timing today. The timing looked to be spot on when I changed the belt. I even had Zazzn' on Supraforums verify it, and he said it looked perfect.

I fixed the NEG/block ground and added another ground, and it does run a little better until it warms up then it misfires.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

now my MAP is not good enough for you LOL!!!

well going through a checklist in my head:

Could be TPS...have you tested this?
Have you DVM your injectors to see if they are getting the right voltage?
You do not have and EGR or a MAF so can not be one of those.
Are you running O2 sensors?

My BIG BIG thought is fuel pressure. I know that the fuel pumps are the same but I am thinking about the voltage change in the ECU itself and the 1JZ ECU talking to the NA 300 fuel ECU. I am wondering if there is a drop in fuel pressure. Do you have a way to check the pressure. I have the Blitz gauge and will see if I have the line to go to the back of it if you want to use it. You would just need to rig up an inline 3 way adapter form home depot.

My bet is on the ECU and/or the fuel pressure.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I could bypass the fuel ECU. I have done it before on another car. I wonder if Soarers use the fuel ecu as well....haven't heard anyone mention that.

Yes, the 1jz has 1 O2 sensor.

I haven't tried the TPS adjustment yet.

I'm going to pull the coil connectors one at a time next to see what happens.

Thanks Bill,
Ryan

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

This is what I am referring to. I know this is to the 2JZ but I am assuming...ASSUMING...that the voltages discrepancy would still be there...

The Aristo's ECU puts out 2.5v to signal low and 5v to
signal high through the FPC Circuit. The SC300's Fuel Pump
ECU uses a 9V(Low) and 12v(High) signal just like the
Supra Turbo's.

got it from: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...to-2jzgte.html

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Wow, that is interesting... I wish he would've been specific as to what year his Aristo was out of.

My Soarer swap is a 1992 model.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

yea I think the biggest thing out of here is the voltage differences and the possibility of it not allowing it to pump the right fuel. ****This is all speculation as I have not tested it for anyone reading******

I would try the 12v mod real quick. Then when it works you can buy me a case of smart water LOL!!!!

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I think I will try it to see what it does.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

The timing marks line up perfectly..don't see how they could be off, and it fires up every time just like it should.

Did the 12V mod, fired right up and sounded better than before, then it started to pop again.

I pulled each coil connector one at a time, and the idle changed each time....

Man, I have a hunch it's the 2jzge knock sensor or the front Cam position sensor does look oily..

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

I am not sure why the knock sensor would do this cause it should really be listening for knock and as long as they plug in and you are not knocking bad you should be good. It is just a microphone.

Hmm so the fuel mod helped a little then none at all. It is weird that 2x you have said that you fixed X and then it worked good at start up and then reverted back.

You know I am really wondering if it is the injectors. You can use my 440s if you would like to test that. Let me know and I can bring them when we swap back.

I am still pointing to fuel. Just stubborn I guess

Brownmagic

iTrader: (1)

I may be shooting in the dark here,

But I read somewhere, If you disconnect the suspected bad cam sensor, the car will not start?