RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I finally fixed the brakes tonight!

EDIT: 4/25/2010 8:21pm
If the brake master cylinder sucks air you need to bleed the master..it's easy.
1. remove oth lines at the brake master cylinder
2. have someone slowly depress the pedal and hold at the very bottom
3. block the two holes in the master with you finger tips as they let the pedal out somewhat slowly.
4. repeat that 5-6 times keeping the fluid filled, install the lines now bleed the brake calipers.
YOU SHOULD GET ROCK SOLID PEDAL ON THE FIRST PUSH, IF NOT THERE IS AN ISSUE.

When you turn the car on you should STILL get major pedal from the first push.

I changed two thing's tonight that I believe fixed it. First off I had the rear calipers swapped around on the wrong side of the car. The bleeder valve needs to be at the top of the caliper when mounted so that the trapped air in the caliper can escape. The first few bleedings on each side of the rear were solid air after I changed this up.

The next thing I did was put worm gear hose clamps on the brake booster vacuum hoses.

Now I have a solid pedal.

Here's what I did that wasted my time/money fixing this.
I changed to a Supra TT brake master, and I rebuilt it--No change in oedal
I changed out the brake booster---No change in pedal

Apparently Supra TT brakes don't have very good pedal feedback. I found a few posts on Supraforums indicating this.

In 1997 Toyota increased the brake master bore size, and changed up the abs for a more quality brake pedal feel.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

This may help someone trying to get their reverse lights working.

You have 1-red and 1-yellow wire coming off the 1JZ harness that run down to the trans along with the speed sensor wires.

The reverse switches on the W58 and R154 transmissions have 1-white and 1-black wire.

Yellow goes to White, and Red goes to Black.

W58 reverse connector is on the driver side, and R154 is on the passenger side you you'll have to extend the red&yellow wires if using the R154.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Still trying to figure out why my tach is not working.

Dr Tweak soldered the resistor to bypass R73 on the back of the cluster, which is for 1995 model cars.

We checked continuity from the black tach signal wire at the igniter to the IK-18 bodyplug, then again all the way to the cluster connecter. That checked out ok so the wiring is good.

I wired in a universal tach today and used that black tach signal wire off the igniter directly into the universal tach, and still nothing. (the igniter sends a 12v square wave signal, which square=digital. A regular old universal tach cannot read a digital signal without a conversion, thus the reason why the tach didn't work for me) The MSD 8920 tach adapter does not convert digital to analog, it merely boosts the signal, so I'm still not sure why people even use the msd 8920, but it seems to work for some people.

I'm beginning to wonder if I'm even getting a tach signal from the igniter.

Update- 4/27/2009
I found this on the net, and decided to save a copy myself. This is the pinout for the 1JZ igniter. From what I've read the IGF=ignition failure signal wire. If the ecu doesn't receive a successful signal from IGF, the ecu kills the engine.

Also people are using IGF as an rpm source for thier SAFCs etc..

Anyways, here it is.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Well, my hunch about the faulty igniter not sending the tach was right!

I swapped ZMEGOBYS' igniter over, and bam I have a tach.

The thing that really tipped me off is having the R73 resistor bypassed on the cluster, and then cutting the tach signal wire at the igniter, and running a test wire directly to the cluster, and it didn't work.

We actually opened up the igniter, which is filled with a clear gel. You can see a spot in the gel where one of the leads may have burned up or something else happened.

Cool, now that's taken care of, I've got some work to do!

1. Install the 3.76 torsen diff (2-3hrs probably because I am slow)
2. Replace the power steering pump & line(since I bent the pump shaft, whoops)
3. Get the A/C freon filled
4. Cut the fender lips
5. Install Supra suspension
6. Install Stereo and boost gauge
7. Baseline dyno for the hell of it

I'm shooting for the end of this month, and I've already got a packed schedule, so we'll see!

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

Nice man! Looks like you're just about finished. Nice work!

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

He lit up brighter than his tach

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Thanks a lot!

Dude, thanks for lending me all the parts Bill!

I've been racking my brain trying to figure this one out.


Next project-

Dads 1970 Chevy Nova hits the road once again.

million3g

def good right up, sticky all day

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I finally got around to installing the stock Supra TT suspension. It is very firm. I haven't done the front yet, because I'm lazy. I'll do it this weekend though if I have time.





I installed a new power steering pump too, finally.

If I would've done this the first time trying to get the nut off I wouldn't have bent the shaft slightly.


I thought this was interesting because people say 1JZ and 2JZ pumps are interchangeable, but they aren't 100% the same.

The 1JZ uses the 2 bolt holes marked green to mount to the motor. The red hole is not completely drilled out to the same size, and the bolt will not go through this hole.

The 2 holes marked green on the 2JZ pump were drilled out all the way, but the red hole wasn't completely drilled out. You can slightly see the lip shining inside that hole. I couldn't find any info out there on this, so I drilled the f-er out.
You also have to take the metal nipple thing off the 1JZ pump, and install it on the 2JZ pump, whichs is easy.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I tried tapping the hole first, which didn't work, but I think it made drilling the hole easier.


This is as far as the bolt would go into the hole!


I ran the drill backwards, so the bit wouldn't bite as hard. I also used cutting oil.
Worked like a charm.


I replaced the driftmotion power steering line, which is miles too long. This line is much higher quality, is cheaper, and uses o-rings AND washers to seal against the pump and rack. Thanks Bill

Thanks to VGnomore for coming up with this hose!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...so-pretty.html
You can get this hose made at a hydraulic shop.
Heres what you need (part numbers included)
2- EAR-9919DFJERL -6 AN to 16mm-1.5 adapter
1- EAR-130106ERL -6 AN JIC Hose end
1- EAR-134606ERL -6 AN 45 Deg. JIC Hose end
1 Foot of the earls powersteering line


Sure wish I would've polished the turbo pipes, and intake. Oh well, if the motor does me right I'll make up for it when I go single....or compound

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

nice. i like.

one thing. get a handle for the taps. pliers are ghetto

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

on your ssqv, just try this... take off those screws int he front pop off the cap, looking at the fins, put your finger in the fin and just push it untill it pops off then put that rubber piece back in and put it back on without the fins. you will be impressed! it Sounds gnarly.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Now that you mention it, I think I have a brand new t handle thing in my toolbox

Thanks for the tip, I'll try this.


Regarding the stock TT suspension- It is much stiffer than stock, and the ride is much firmer. No more squatting every time I take off.

I also don't know if the TT power steering pump is different, but my steering is firmer and tighter now..maybe just because it's a new pump. I don't know. But bigtime

I like it!

I definitely need a strut tower brace.

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

your build is coming along real nice man i will definalty be checking back on this thread when I start working on my engine build

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Thanks man,

I have to say, I've ran into some really weird/strange issues while doing this swap.

EDIT: 8/23/2010 Some of this stuff needs clarification.

1. I ruined a perfectly good igniter by using someones advise to wire in a tach adapter..no this isnt a 2jzgte ecu, the wiring is different. After that mishap fried my igniter it would not send a tach signal resulting in me buying a new igniter to have a working tach. I took apart the fried igniter and you could you where it was fried, but it stilled worked just wouldn't send the tach signal.

2.bent the power steering pump shaft trying to remove the pulley the incorrect way.

3.funky coil pack wiring...

4.mistakenly bought a JDM ac condenser which does not work with USDM piping...screwed on that one. Actually this was an R12 vs R134 line difference...the two types of frein use different lines...simple as that.

5.found out the hard way that the rear TT calipers should be installed bleeder nipple at the top of the caliper, but they can be installed incorrectly as well. The result was me buying a TT brake master, rebuilding it, and installing a new brake booster when I didn't need to.

6.found oil in one of the ECU connectors. Learned from a Japanese member on Supraforums that the 1jz/2jz cam sensors can leak oil past the housing into the wiring. From there the oil can be pushed all the way to the ECU connector through the cam sensor wiring. The fix is to remove the cam sensor no matter what it's condition, and seal the housing with a thin layer of FIPG.