My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
03-31-10, 09:35 PM
#259
Yes please let me know!
I just figured out the competition clutch I have is not gonna cut it behind the 1JZ.
EDIT: CompetitionClutch is exchanging my disc out with their 6 puck sprung unit.
I just figured out the competition clutch I have is not gonna cut it behind the 1JZ.
EDIT: CompetitionClutch is exchanging my disc out with their 6 puck sprung unit.
Last edited by RyanV; 04-07-10 at 09:28 PM.
04-19-10, 06:43 PM
#260
Update-
I asked OneJay when I first got my swap running and I've had two people now ask me for a vacuum diagram so here's how my lines are ran just as an example of how it can be done.
Green (at top of pic)-Map sensor to filter on inside of manifold
Yellow- (rear of manifold)- to hard line directly behind the head
Red- (outside center)- to charcoal canister
Purple- (2nd from last port)- Heater switch near charcoal can
Blue- (1st port)- I used this for my boost gauge OR if you have a stock power steering line this is one of the 2 ports you will use for it. (Thanks to Stick3 for the correction.)
Green- (bottom left at pic)- to fuel pressure regulator port, front of fuel rail
Red- (near map sensor manifold port)- out and down under middle of intake manifold
Blue- map sensor into filter at intake
Yellow- (bottom of picture)- I plugged this port off the inside throttle body due to eliminating stock power steering lines. Thanks to Stick3 for the info!
I asked OneJay when I first got my swap running and I've had two people now ask me for a vacuum diagram so here's how my lines are ran just as an example of how it can be done.
Green (at top of pic)-Map sensor to filter on inside of manifold
Yellow- (rear of manifold)- to hard line directly behind the head
Red- (outside center)- to charcoal canister
Purple- (2nd from last port)- Heater switch near charcoal can
Blue- (1st port)- I used this for my boost gauge OR if you have a stock power steering line this is one of the 2 ports you will use for it. (Thanks to Stick3 for the correction.)
Green- (bottom left at pic)- to fuel pressure regulator port, front of fuel rail
Red- (near map sensor manifold port)- out and down under middle of intake manifold
Blue- map sensor into filter at intake
Yellow- (bottom of picture)- I plugged this port off the inside throttle body due to eliminating stock power steering lines. Thanks to Stick3 for the info!
Last edited by RyanV; 04-20-10 at 05:59 AM.
04-19-10, 06:51 PM
#261
I swapped the wheels and brakes from the Supra to the Sc300.
Sleeper mode
I also received the clutch set for the W58. Stage 4 Competition Clutch...should outlast the W58 trans for sure. Rated to 500hp
When I swap the W58 back into the Sc300 I'm also going to put the stock 4.08 diff back in. The 1JZ is a beast off the line with a 5spd and the 4.08 gearing works well with the heavier car.
Sleeper mode
I also received the clutch set for the W58. Stage 4 Competition Clutch...should outlast the W58 trans for sure. Rated to 500hp
When I swap the W58 back into the Sc300 I'm also going to put the stock 4.08 diff back in. The 1JZ is a beast off the line with a 5spd and the 4.08 gearing works well with the heavier car.
Last edited by RyanV; 04-19-10 at 07:06 PM.
04-19-10, 07:34 PM
#262
Update-
I asked OneJay when I first got my swap running and I've had two people now ask me for a vacuum diagram so here's how my lines are ran just as an example of how it can be done.
Green (at top of pic)-Map sensor to filter on inside of manifold
Yellow- (rear of manifold)- to hard line directly behind the head
Red- (outside center)- to charcoal canister
Purple- (2nd from last port)- Heater switch near charcoal can
Blue- (1st port)- I used this for my boost gauge
Green- (bottom left at pic)- to fuel pressure regulator port, front of fuel rail
Red- (near map sensor manifold port)- out and down under middle of intake manifold
Blue- map sensor into filter at intake
Yellow- (bottom of picture)- I plugged this port off the inside throttle body
I asked OneJay when I first got my swap running and I've had two people now ask me for a vacuum diagram so here's how my lines are ran just as an example of how it can be done.
Green (at top of pic)-Map sensor to filter on inside of manifold
Yellow- (rear of manifold)- to hard line directly behind the head
Red- (outside center)- to charcoal canister
Purple- (2nd from last port)- Heater switch near charcoal can
Blue- (1st port)- I used this for my boost gauge
Green- (bottom left at pic)- to fuel pressure regulator port, front of fuel rail
Red- (near map sensor manifold port)- out and down under middle of intake manifold
Blue- map sensor into filter at intake
Yellow- (bottom of picture)- I plugged this port off the inside throttle body
The one on the bottom of the throttle body (the yellow one) and the blue one (the one used for your boost gauge) go to the vacuum ports on my stock power steering line. You don't have this because you have the driftmotion SS line.
04-24-10, 08:02 PM
#267
Well, the reman power steering pump took a crap on me.
I thought it was a rodknock at first, it's the pump! As it warms up something in the pump lets go. You can hear it
loud and clear using a screwdriver like a stethoscope.
I thought it was a rodknock at first, it's the pump! As it warms up something in the pump lets go. You can hear it
loud and clear using a screwdriver like a stethoscope.
Last edited by RyanV; 04-27-10 at 10:01 AM.
05-17-10, 05:57 PM
#268
Remanufactured power steering pump number two installed! Next time it's OEM.
I finally found a good sc300 W58 5spd driveshaft to use for the swap.
This next trouble spot is the 2j/1j cam sensor(black thing center with connector removed). You can see here where oil has passed through the housing into the connector THEN oil works it's way into the wire and can travel all the way back to the ECU or leak down the block.
You can resolve that by replacing the Cam sensor or sealing the old one with FIPG around the inside base(self explanatory once you have it in your hand)
I was also getting a random CODE 52. #1 knock sensor/signal
With advice of Dr Tweak I checked the continuity of the knock sensor wire and it was .5 between the connector and the ecu so the wiring was perfect(anything over 1 is not good or nothing at all is a total break)
So I replaced the knock sensor and the car is running ALOT better. The code was intermittent so I could reset the ECU and it'd be fine until the knock sensor would trip the code.
Here's an example of how you can build your own knock sensor wires. Please do this at your own risk. Thanks
I started out with RG-58 solid core 'zero loss' shielded cable 22ft.(this wire is probably overkill but oh well. I've had people tell me to use good speaker wire as well. It really should be shielded though so I went with the 'zero loss' wire.
2 - OEM knock sensor connectors
2 - OEM knock sensor pins(comes with 7" of wire you can remove)
Milspec butt connectors(has hole in top for solder)
RG-58 with housing cut back to expose stranded shielding
Here the stranded shielding wire is pulled back and twisted(will become the ground). This wire cannot touch the center core wire ever.
This is the New knock sensor pin on the right(it comes with about 7" of wire which needs to be completely removed.)
I carefully cut back the white insulation to expose the solid core. I pushed the brown rubber insulator piece back over the wire.
I seperated the pin 'wings' so I could remove the wire attached to the pin. fun fun
I then soldered the RG-58 solid-core wire to the new OEM pin.
You can also see how the pin 'wings' are folded back over the brown connector insulation rubber piece.
I soldered a wire to the stranded core. This will become the ground and attached to the block or intake. You only ground this wire at in the engine bay or ecu area, but not both.
Joint is heat shrink'd and I carefully fit the pin into the new connector. Fit perfectly.
I pulled the ground wire back and heatshrink'd it, then taped it.
I then checked both the ground wire and the knock wire resistance using a multimeter set to 200 ohm. I believe I got .3 which is good.
I bought 25ft of this Nylon high temp split wire loom to protect the new knock wires. This is much higher quality than the corner parts store carries. This is more like the OEM loom in the bay that has just lasted.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d228.html
I finally found a good sc300 W58 5spd driveshaft to use for the swap.
This next trouble spot is the 2j/1j cam sensor(black thing center with connector removed). You can see here where oil has passed through the housing into the connector THEN oil works it's way into the wire and can travel all the way back to the ECU or leak down the block.
You can resolve that by replacing the Cam sensor or sealing the old one with FIPG around the inside base(self explanatory once you have it in your hand)
I was also getting a random CODE 52. #1 knock sensor/signal
With advice of Dr Tweak I checked the continuity of the knock sensor wire and it was .5 between the connector and the ecu so the wiring was perfect(anything over 1 is not good or nothing at all is a total break)
So I replaced the knock sensor and the car is running ALOT better. The code was intermittent so I could reset the ECU and it'd be fine until the knock sensor would trip the code.
Here's an example of how you can build your own knock sensor wires. Please do this at your own risk. Thanks
I started out with RG-58 solid core 'zero loss' shielded cable 22ft.(this wire is probably overkill but oh well. I've had people tell me to use good speaker wire as well. It really should be shielded though so I went with the 'zero loss' wire.
2 - OEM knock sensor connectors
2 - OEM knock sensor pins(comes with 7" of wire you can remove)
Milspec butt connectors(has hole in top for solder)
RG-58 with housing cut back to expose stranded shielding
Here the stranded shielding wire is pulled back and twisted(will become the ground). This wire cannot touch the center core wire ever.
This is the New knock sensor pin on the right(it comes with about 7" of wire which needs to be completely removed.)
I carefully cut back the white insulation to expose the solid core. I pushed the brown rubber insulator piece back over the wire.
I seperated the pin 'wings' so I could remove the wire attached to the pin. fun fun
I then soldered the RG-58 solid-core wire to the new OEM pin.
You can also see how the pin 'wings' are folded back over the brown connector insulation rubber piece.
I soldered a wire to the stranded core. This will become the ground and attached to the block or intake. You only ground this wire at in the engine bay or ecu area, but not both.
Joint is heat shrink'd and I carefully fit the pin into the new connector. Fit perfectly.
I pulled the ground wire back and heatshrink'd it, then taped it.
I then checked both the ground wire and the knock wire resistance using a multimeter set to 200 ohm. I believe I got .3 which is good.
I bought 25ft of this Nylon high temp split wire loom to protect the new knock wires. This is much higher quality than the corner parts store carries. This is more like the OEM loom in the bay that has just lasted.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d228.html
Last edited by RyanV; 05-19-10 at 05:38 AM.
05-19-10, 06:28 PM
#270
I installed a 2jzgte knock snsor and it's working great.
The 2jzge sensors look the same but the numbers on the sensor are different so I'm not sure if they are safe to use.
Here are some really good 1JZ specific websites.
Soarer Central
http://soarercentral.com
SupraMania forums
http://supramania.com
How to remove 1JZ stock twins and everything you need to know about the stock twins.
http://www.thepointnet.com/Lenticular/Turbo/
The 2jzge sensors look the same but the numbers on the sensor are different so I'm not sure if they are safe to use.
Here are some really good 1JZ specific websites.
Soarer Central
http://soarercentral.com
SupraMania forums
http://supramania.com
How to remove 1JZ stock twins and everything you need to know about the stock twins.
http://www.thepointnet.com/Lenticular/Turbo/
Last edited by RyanV; 12-21-10 at 04:57 AM.