My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
01-30-09, 06:06 AM
#19
Guess I shoulda checked the mailbox too..
1jz timing belt & r154 clutch slave. Now, I have no excuses, except for the bum clutch disc...thank god they are fairly cheap!
I should be able to complete the timing belt,water pump and seals this weekend hopefully.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782386532/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782386532/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
1jz timing belt & r154 clutch slave. Now, I have no excuses, except for the bum clutch disc...thank god they are fairly cheap!
I should be able to complete the timing belt,water pump and seals this weekend hopefully.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782386532/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6782386532/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/, on Flickr
Last edited by RyanV; 02-25-12 at 11:38 AM.
Waiting for a damn harness and then I will be done. Need this in so that i can begin the 6spd collection. 
01-30-09, 05:31 PM
#26
I don't have any extreme plans really,
Roll the rear fenders
Install the Supra TT suspension that I have sitting in the garage.
Install the rear TT brakes, once I find the calipers(i have the rotors/pads already)
I'll probably stick with my current wheels
Ryan
Roll the rear fenders
Install the Supra TT suspension that I have sitting in the garage.
Install the rear TT brakes, once I find the calipers(i have the rotors/pads already)
I'll probably stick with my current wheels
Ryan
02-01-09, 06:04 PM
#28
Motor maintenance is done. I also removed the gauge cluster for the tach mod.
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
new seals
valvecover gaskets
OEM mkiv TT thermostat
Swapped a knocksensor from my 2jzGE over since I broke one of the knock sensors trying to remove the connector from the 1jz
OEM mkiv TT crank pulley
Jeff@ ChampionToyota is sending me some FIPG gasket maker goo and a clutch set this week.
Once I get that stuff, I'll do the oil pans,rear main seal, and hookup the tranny so it'll be ready to stab.
If I could only get that stupid writing off the cover..I tried goo gone and it didnt really work..might have to paint it or something.
This is not really a 'how to' because it would be alot more detailed, but there are a FEW issues I ran into so I'll post em' for you.
1. The 2jzgte water pump had this small nipple facing straight down, and the 1jz water pump did not. It freaked me out for a bit..I found a post on Toyomods(Aussie forum) explaining that the nipple will seep coolant if the pump seals go bad.
2. Next thing I ran into was CAM SEALS! The 1jz cam seals are different from the 2jz..it is somewhat common knowledge, but I forgot to order them!
Anyhow I found a few guys on Supraforums using a common 1990s Toyota cam seal. Federal Mogul# 223801 or National Oil Seals, It's more expensive than a stock 1jz seal, so just buy the 1jz seal, and don't forget like I did.
The new cam seal is just a bit wider than the 1jz seal, but the measurements that matter(inner/outer) diameter, are spot on.
This is the 1jz cam seal. There's a lot of empty space between it and the rear timing cover.
This is the common mid 90s Toyota cam seal. It is wider, but it doesn't contact the rear timing(maybe just slightly, but it doesn't matter because it does not spin with the cam anyways(I tested this)
3. The third issue I ran into was the timing belt tension pulley!! Contrary to popular belief the 1jz timing belt tensioner pulley --> BRACKET is different then the --> 2jz BRACKET
The 1jz bracket has a steeper bend to it that allows is to sit further towards the turbo side of the motor. The 1jz timing belt DID NOT fit when I bolted up the 2jz tensioner pulley.
Here in this pic you can see the bracket arm for the 1jz(on the left) has a steeper bend to it than the 2jz bracket arm.
This is how different the bracket arm makes them sit. You can see the 2jz sticking out on the bottom. It leans further toward the intake side of the motor by design. Enough to make it not work with the 1jz belt. Oh yea, you can't use the 2jz belt either..it is WAY too long.
I thought I'd have to find a 1jz specific tensioner then I had an idea!! I noticed the tensioner pulley is actually bolted to the tensioner bracket. I proceeded to swap the new 2jz tensioner bearing/pulley onto the 1jz tensioner bracket. You need a vice and 2 13mm sockets for the 1jz pulley, and a 13mm & a 10mm for the 2jz pulley. You have to find some leverage point, because they are TIGHT.
Here's how I did it.
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
new seals
valvecover gaskets
OEM mkiv TT thermostat
Swapped a knocksensor from my 2jzGE over since I broke one of the knock sensors trying to remove the connector from the 1jz
OEM mkiv TT crank pulley
Jeff@ ChampionToyota is sending me some FIPG gasket maker goo and a clutch set this week.
Once I get that stuff, I'll do the oil pans,rear main seal, and hookup the tranny so it'll be ready to stab.
If I could only get that stupid writing off the cover..I tried goo gone and it didnt really work..might have to paint it or something.
This is not really a 'how to' because it would be alot more detailed, but there are a FEW issues I ran into so I'll post em' for you.
1. The 2jzgte water pump had this small nipple facing straight down, and the 1jz water pump did not. It freaked me out for a bit..I found a post on Toyomods(Aussie forum) explaining that the nipple will seep coolant if the pump seals go bad.
2. Next thing I ran into was CAM SEALS! The 1jz cam seals are different from the 2jz..it is somewhat common knowledge, but I forgot to order them!
Anyhow I found a few guys on Supraforums using a common 1990s Toyota cam seal. Federal Mogul# 223801 or National Oil Seals, It's more expensive than a stock 1jz seal, so just buy the 1jz seal, and don't forget like I did.
The new cam seal is just a bit wider than the 1jz seal, but the measurements that matter(inner/outer) diameter, are spot on.
This is the 1jz cam seal. There's a lot of empty space between it and the rear timing cover.
This is the common mid 90s Toyota cam seal. It is wider, but it doesn't contact the rear timing(maybe just slightly, but it doesn't matter because it does not spin with the cam anyways(I tested this)
3. The third issue I ran into was the timing belt tension pulley!! Contrary to popular belief the 1jz timing belt tensioner pulley --> BRACKET is different then the --> 2jz BRACKET
The 1jz bracket has a steeper bend to it that allows is to sit further towards the turbo side of the motor. The 1jz timing belt DID NOT fit when I bolted up the 2jz tensioner pulley.
Here in this pic you can see the bracket arm for the 1jz(on the left) has a steeper bend to it than the 2jz bracket arm.
This is how different the bracket arm makes them sit. You can see the 2jz sticking out on the bottom. It leans further toward the intake side of the motor by design. Enough to make it not work with the 1jz belt. Oh yea, you can't use the 2jz belt either..it is WAY too long.
I thought I'd have to find a 1jz specific tensioner then I had an idea!! I noticed the tensioner pulley is actually bolted to the tensioner bracket. I proceeded to swap the new 2jz tensioner bearing/pulley onto the 1jz tensioner bracket. You need a vice and 2 13mm sockets for the 1jz pulley, and a 13mm & a 10mm for the 2jz pulley. You have to find some leverage point, because they are TIGHT.
Here's how I did it.
Last edited by RyanV; 02-02-09 at 05:48 AM.
02-01-09, 06:17 PM
#29
3. The third issue I ran into was the timing belt tension pulley!! Contrary to popular belief the 1jz timing belt tensioner pulley --> BRACKET is different then the --> 2jz BRACKET
The 1jz bracket has a steeper bend to it that allows is to sit further towards the turbo side of the motor. The 1jz timing belt DID NOT fit when I bolted up the 2jz tensioner pulley.
The 1jz bracket has a steeper bend to it that allows is to sit further towards the turbo side of the motor. The 1jz timing belt DID NOT fit when I bolted up the 2jz tensioner pulley.
02-01-09, 06:19 PM
#30
Torque the cam gears to 60ft lbs. I doublechecked with 2 different torque wrenches because I don't trust them.
Cam seals were definitely seeping a little.
Pry gently here on the tabs on either side with a flat head to remove cam caps.
I had to make a run to the store to find 2 long M6x1.0 pitch thread that were pretty long so I could use the puller
This seal kicked my ***. It was not leaking and didn't want to be disturbed. I ended up drilling a small hole into it, then using a flathead to pop it out. PITA for real
Water pump was pretty easy. This tube here has to be used on the new water pump. It's sealed with 2 orings. I got it out by hand, twisting back and forth. Theres 2 bolts in the back you can get to from the side with a 3/8ths wratchet and a small extension.
Jeff sent this gasket seperate with my thermostat. I don't see where it fits. I'm going to have him run the part number and tell me what it's for.
That's about it for now. I should have the harness back from Dr Tweak in the next couple days.
Ryan
Cam seals were definitely seeping a little.
Pry gently here on the tabs on either side with a flat head to remove cam caps.
I had to make a run to the store to find 2 long M6x1.0 pitch thread that were pretty long so I could use the puller
This seal kicked my ***. It was not leaking and didn't want to be disturbed. I ended up drilling a small hole into it, then using a flathead to pop it out. PITA for real
Water pump was pretty easy. This tube here has to be used on the new water pump. It's sealed with 2 orings. I got it out by hand, twisting back and forth. Theres 2 bolts in the back you can get to from the side with a 3/8ths wratchet and a small extension.
Jeff sent this gasket seperate with my thermostat. I don't see where it fits. I'm going to have him run the part number and tell me what it's for.
That's about it for now. I should have the harness back from Dr Tweak in the next couple days.
Ryan
Last edited by RyanV; 02-01-09 at 06:32 PM.