My 1jzgte swap thread pic heavy!
04-11-11, 03:47 PM
#317
Yep, for the R154 you can install it like a regular clutch disc and pressure plate, but in order to remove the transmission you have to loosen the tension on the plate first.
It's actually not that bad at all...they put 2 big access holes in the R154 bell housing just for this purpose.
The top two bell housing bolts were not bad after I loosened the mounts and tilted the motor back a bit so I could get the long extension over the top of the transmission.
It's actually not that bad at all...they put 2 big access holes in the R154 bell housing just for this purpose.
The top two bell housing bolts were not bad after I loosened the mounts and tilted the motor back a bit so I could get the long extension over the top of the transmission.
Last edited by RyanV; 04-11-11 at 04:18 PM.
04-11-11, 07:04 PM
#321
My primary use for the car at the moment is daily driving. The W58 is perfect for that.
I'm going to swap the R154 into the Supra, and Im selling the 3.26 torsen diff.
No you can't pull it apart without loosening the PP bolts first. The R154 uses a unique clutch hub/throwout bearing that is physical attached to the PP.
you can see the diff between thw W58/R154 clutches right here
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=CL&P=11
I'm going to swap the R154 into the Supra, and Im selling the 3.26 torsen diff.
you can see the diff between thw W58/R154 clutches right here
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=CL&P=11
Last edited by RyanV; 04-11-11 at 07:08 PM.
04-12-11, 06:08 AM
#322
My primary use for the car at the moment is daily driving. The W58 is perfect for that.
I'm going to swap the R154 into the Supra, and Im selling the 3.26 torsen diff.
No you can't pull it apart without loosening the PP bolts first. The R154 uses a unique clutch hub/throwout bearing that is physical attached to the PP.
you can see the diff between thw W58/R154 clutches right here
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=CL&P=11
I'm going to swap the R154 into the Supra, and Im selling the 3.26 torsen diff.
No you can't pull it apart without loosening the PP bolts first. The R154 uses a unique clutch hub/throwout bearing that is physical attached to the PP.
you can see the diff between thw W58/R154 clutches right here
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=CL&P=11
04-12-11, 06:53 AM
#323
05-08-11, 10:46 AM
#325
i was just reading the first page of this thread.
next time you'll know to just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and crank the starter
and your pulley was so beatup anyways, i would have just tapped on the rear part with a hammer to get it off...
next time you'll know to just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and crank the starter
and your pulley was so beatup anyways, i would have just tapped on the rear part with a hammer to get it off...
07-06-11, 04:59 PM
#328
I just went 10 rounds with my 1J Sc300 the past few weeks.
Long story short. I filled up with gas, drove 8 miles and the car was sputtering, cutting out, running rough, idling low, and smoking!
I finally drained all $65 worth of 15gallons and filled it with fresh fuel and the car is back in business! Isn't that crazy!? Bad gas!!
Before I finally decided to drain the gas and refill it, I went 10 rounds like this-
1. checked the plugs and they looked ok
2. changed the plugs to ngk bkr7e(no change at all)
3. tried another Soarer ECU(no change at all)
4. checked ecu for obvious cap leakage(none found)
5. made sure vacuum hoses were all tight(pulls really good vacuum -20@idle and -25@ off throttle cruise)
6. removed IACV and cleaned it and (no change)
7. had alternator checked and it was reading flaky so I redid the alternator connector wiring and it's much cleaner now.(reading 14.2V@idle, down to 13.7 after its warmed up)
8. checked for codes and there are none
9. not burning oil or losing coolant
10. had someone push the clutch pedal and the crank pulley doesn't seem to move as if it had crankwalk
1. redid my fuel ecu bypass 12v mod wiring. It was only seeing 10.5V through the solder joint so I cut it and used a high quality butt connector instead, and now the joint is seeing 11.5V (definite improvement)
2. cleaned all grounds in the engine bay
3. bought Superspark coils (ran better, didnt fix issue)
4. checked base timing which was spot on 10deg BTDC
5. checked the star wheel on the crank(looked ok, wasnt bouncing around)
6. changed oil and inspected it for metal bearings etc, oil was clean
7. drained all the fuel from the car using the fuel pump and fuel return line after the regulator
8. put in a bottle of Redline injector cleaner
The car is now running way better than even before the bad gas.
It's idling @750 +-50rpms after holding throttle at 2500rpm for 90seconds.
The car is revving better than it did before due to the Supersparks replacing my old cracked coils.
To top that off, I got my condenser replaced and the A/C is blowing snowballs again!
Long story short. I filled up with gas, drove 8 miles and the car was sputtering, cutting out, running rough, idling low, and smoking!
I finally drained all $65 worth of 15gallons and filled it with fresh fuel and the car is back in business! Isn't that crazy!? Bad gas!!
Before I finally decided to drain the gas and refill it, I went 10 rounds like this-
1. checked the plugs and they looked ok
2. changed the plugs to ngk bkr7e(no change at all)
3. tried another Soarer ECU(no change at all)
4. checked ecu for obvious cap leakage(none found)
5. made sure vacuum hoses were all tight(pulls really good vacuum -20@idle and -25@ off throttle cruise)
6. removed IACV and cleaned it and (no change)
7. had alternator checked and it was reading flaky so I redid the alternator connector wiring and it's much cleaner now.(reading 14.2V@idle, down to 13.7 after its warmed up)
8. checked for codes and there are none
9. not burning oil or losing coolant
10. had someone push the clutch pedal and the crank pulley doesn't seem to move as if it had crankwalk
1. redid my fuel ecu bypass 12v mod wiring. It was only seeing 10.5V through the solder joint so I cut it and used a high quality butt connector instead, and now the joint is seeing 11.5V (definite improvement)
2. cleaned all grounds in the engine bay
3. bought Superspark coils (ran better, didnt fix issue)
4. checked base timing which was spot on 10deg BTDC
5. checked the star wheel on the crank(looked ok, wasnt bouncing around)
6. changed oil and inspected it for metal bearings etc, oil was clean
7. drained all the fuel from the car using the fuel pump and fuel return line after the regulator
8. put in a bottle of Redline injector cleaner
The car is now running way better than even before the bad gas.
It's idling @750 +-50rpms after holding throttle at 2500rpm for 90seconds.
The car is revving better than it did before due to the Supersparks replacing my old cracked coils.
To top that off, I got my condenser replaced and the A/C is blowing snowballs again!
Last edited by RyanV; 07-11-11 at 09:25 PM.
07-06-11, 08:44 PM
#329
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Nice! I had a similar experience with bad gas a couple years ago, I know how much of a headache it can be.
Where did you get your condenser from, did you it set you back much?
Where did you get your condenser from, did you it set you back much?