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More clutch engagement woes

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Old 05-03-09 | 09:19 AM
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I just ordered the extended rod and SS line for mine also; I'm having the same exact problem. Subscribed, keep us updated. Thanks!
Old 05-03-09 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BoostAddct
I just ordered the extended rod and SS line for mine also; I'm having the same exact problem. Subscribed, keep us updated. Thanks!
I've read your thread, and am hoping you get it figured out as well. In the mean time I will do my best to document what I did to fix my problem, and to determine what the problem exactly is.
Old 05-03-09 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dejacky
I have a similar anomaly to a lesser degree since my R154 still shifts, just not as smoothly as when the car is cold. I'm also using a very old rubber clutch line and I'll try to change it to a more rigid or SS braided one to see if that remedies the problem. Please keep us posted and thanks for everyone sharing ideas .
Changing the fluid is your best bet. BTW I love your build. I sort of wished I went na-t instead of gte.....But I think I'll go single no matter which path I took haha. The gte path will just take a little longer.

Man I shouldn't hijack my own thread.
Old 05-03-09 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lemmiewink
I've read your thread, and am hoping you get it figured out as well. In the mean time I will do my best to document what I did to fix my problem, and to determine what the problem exactly is.
Thanks! I appreciate your help, tips, and advice. Hopefully we both get it figured out so we can enjoy our cars again.
Old 05-03-09 | 02:58 PM
  #20  
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MAJOR UPDATE...

Well I was driving the car to see if it is still working. I drove a little aggressively because I wanted to reenact what I was doing to see if it did fix it. Sure enough after one of the pulls BAM.... can't shift again... Pedal feel got even softer. WTF!!!


But there was a different noise this time. Some sort of rattling. I assumed that it was the socket that broke from the pressure maybe and is rattling around. I took off the inspection plates and LO AND BEHOLD...

2 Pressure plate bolts rolled out. The ends were sheared off. I can only think that the other end is still embedded in the bolt hole.

This means I have to pull the tranny and clutch to get at the bolt ends and drill them out.

SO... now I have a theory of what was happening. The first time I had a no shift condition, could possibly have been the bolts backing out. I didn't even bother checking the bolts to see if they were loose because I have torqued them down as per instructions. Maybe I should have overcompensated due to the fact of the aftermarket pressure plate putting alot more force on those bolts than the stock pp did.

So.....I'm trying to put the facts together... Maybe the bolts were already backing out since the first time this happened. This caused the pp to be closer to the slave cyl causing which made the pedal travel shorter and feel softer??


If this is true then when I put the "extension" on the slave rod, it could just have compensated for the bolts backing off. Today, maybe the bolts have backed off so much that they have been sheared off due to the torque put on them... It did not help that this is a pull type clutch, causing it to put lateral force in the wrong direction.

Well, this allows me to rebuild my r154 right.. So I guess I can't complain TOO much. Still it sucks...
Old 05-03-09 | 06:17 PM
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what kind of thread locker was on the pressure plate bolt threads?
Old 05-03-09 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dejacky
what kind of thread locker was on the pressure plate bolt threads?
I did the installation as per manual. I didnt put thread locker since it didnt tell me to.

All it says is tighten uniformally and torque to 14 ft lb.
Old 05-03-09 | 10:26 PM
  #23  
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I noticed on my previous aftermarket clutch install the pressure plate bolts were not as tight as when originally installed. After using permatex red thread locker on the bolt threads, they always stayed tight. I'd do the same for future clutches if I were you .
Old 06-04-09 | 05:38 PM
  #24  
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any updates lemmiewink and BoostAddct?
Old 06-05-09 | 07:01 PM
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Haha I rebuilt it for S&Gs. The transmission looked pristine when we opened it up. Ordered new synchros and one of the forks showed minor wear so it was replaced also. Pressure plate bolts were replaced. Turns out the old ones were longer and they could have bottomed out before they could be really be tightened.

I had my flywheel resurfaced and, it seems that I was missing the dowel pins that help align the clutch!
This coupled with the long pressure plate bolts could have contributed. I ordered new ones and so far so good. I made a new slave rod out of a grade 8 bolt. It was about 1-2 cm longer. Definately works.

Filled her up with more mt90 redline oil. Shifts smooth as butter. Will update if it craps out on me.
Old 06-06-09 | 05:57 AM
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nice job

i also have a r154 soarer and would like to get a full rebuild and replace that dreaded thurst washer to the billet one and upgrade my clutch at the same time

who rebuild these trannys for a fair price replacing syncros and stuff any suggestions
Old 06-06-09 | 09:52 AM
  #27  
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marlin crawler?
Old 06-06-09 | 04:33 PM
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I used a reputable transmission shop near my house.... But then again I didnt pay for labor cause the owner is a friend of mine He gave me use of his shop tools, lifts and the guidance to rebuild it too.

My total for the rebuild was 269.00 USD

But yes. Dejacky is correct. Probably the most well known is marlin crawler.
Old 07-27-09 | 01:38 PM
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lemmiewink, so did the rebuild make any difference or was the culprit the clutch itself?
Old 07-27-09 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lemmiewink
I did the installation as per manual. I didnt put thread locker since it didnt tell me to.

All it says is tighten uniformally and torque to 14 ft lb.
Yeah I know what you mean... I had the option of doing that... but instead I went to Ace and got Grade 10.9 bolts and used red loctite. I think I did 40-50lbs per bolt. Those stock bolts cannot be tightened much without breaking.
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