More clutch engagement woes
#17
I've read your thread, and am hoping you get it figured out as well. In the mean time I will do my best to document what I did to fix my problem, and to determine what the problem exactly is.
#18
I have a similar anomaly to a lesser degree since my R154 still shifts, just not as smoothly as when the car is cold. I'm also using a very old rubber clutch line and I'll try to change it to a more rigid or SS braided one to see if that remedies the problem. Please keep us posted and thanks for everyone sharing ideas .
Man I shouldn't hijack my own thread.
#19
Thanks! I appreciate your help, tips, and advice. Hopefully we both get it figured out so we can enjoy our cars again.
#20
MAJOR UPDATE...
Well I was driving the car to see if it is still working. I drove a little aggressively because I wanted to reenact what I was doing to see if it did fix it. Sure enough after one of the pulls BAM.... can't shift again... Pedal feel got even softer. WTF!!!
But there was a different noise this time. Some sort of rattling. I assumed that it was the socket that broke from the pressure maybe and is rattling around. I took off the inspection plates and LO AND BEHOLD...
2 Pressure plate bolts rolled out. The ends were sheared off. I can only think that the other end is still embedded in the bolt hole.
This means I have to pull the tranny and clutch to get at the bolt ends and drill them out.
SO... now I have a theory of what was happening. The first time I had a no shift condition, could possibly have been the bolts backing out. I didn't even bother checking the bolts to see if they were loose because I have torqued them down as per instructions. Maybe I should have overcompensated due to the fact of the aftermarket pressure plate putting alot more force on those bolts than the stock pp did.
So.....I'm trying to put the facts together... Maybe the bolts were already backing out since the first time this happened. This caused the pp to be closer to the slave cyl causing which made the pedal travel shorter and feel softer??
If this is true then when I put the "extension" on the slave rod, it could just have compensated for the bolts backing off. Today, maybe the bolts have backed off so much that they have been sheared off due to the torque put on them... It did not help that this is a pull type clutch, causing it to put lateral force in the wrong direction.
Well, this allows me to rebuild my r154 right.. So I guess I can't complain TOO much. Still it sucks...
Well I was driving the car to see if it is still working. I drove a little aggressively because I wanted to reenact what I was doing to see if it did fix it. Sure enough after one of the pulls BAM.... can't shift again... Pedal feel got even softer. WTF!!!
But there was a different noise this time. Some sort of rattling. I assumed that it was the socket that broke from the pressure maybe and is rattling around. I took off the inspection plates and LO AND BEHOLD...
2 Pressure plate bolts rolled out. The ends were sheared off. I can only think that the other end is still embedded in the bolt hole.
This means I have to pull the tranny and clutch to get at the bolt ends and drill them out.
SO... now I have a theory of what was happening. The first time I had a no shift condition, could possibly have been the bolts backing out. I didn't even bother checking the bolts to see if they were loose because I have torqued them down as per instructions. Maybe I should have overcompensated due to the fact of the aftermarket pressure plate putting alot more force on those bolts than the stock pp did.
So.....I'm trying to put the facts together... Maybe the bolts were already backing out since the first time this happened. This caused the pp to be closer to the slave cyl causing which made the pedal travel shorter and feel softer??
If this is true then when I put the "extension" on the slave rod, it could just have compensated for the bolts backing off. Today, maybe the bolts have backed off so much that they have been sheared off due to the torque put on them... It did not help that this is a pull type clutch, causing it to put lateral force in the wrong direction.
Well, this allows me to rebuild my r154 right.. So I guess I can't complain TOO much. Still it sucks...
#22
#23
I noticed on my previous aftermarket clutch install the pressure plate bolts were not as tight as when originally installed. After using permatex red thread locker on the bolt threads, they always stayed tight. I'd do the same for future clutches if I were you .
#25
Haha I rebuilt it for S&Gs. The transmission looked pristine when we opened it up. Ordered new synchros and one of the forks showed minor wear so it was replaced also. Pressure plate bolts were replaced. Turns out the old ones were longer and they could have bottomed out before they could be really be tightened.
I had my flywheel resurfaced and, it seems that I was missing the dowel pins that help align the clutch!
This coupled with the long pressure plate bolts could have contributed. I ordered new ones and so far so good. I made a new slave rod out of a grade 8 bolt. It was about 1-2 cm longer. Definately works.
Filled her up with more mt90 redline oil. Shifts smooth as butter. Will update if it craps out on me.
I had my flywheel resurfaced and, it seems that I was missing the dowel pins that help align the clutch!
This coupled with the long pressure plate bolts could have contributed. I ordered new ones and so far so good. I made a new slave rod out of a grade 8 bolt. It was about 1-2 cm longer. Definately works.
Filled her up with more mt90 redline oil. Shifts smooth as butter. Will update if it craps out on me.
#26
nice job
i also have a r154 soarer and would like to get a full rebuild and replace that dreaded thurst washer to the billet one and upgrade my clutch at the same time
who rebuild these trannys for a fair price replacing syncros and stuff any suggestions
i also have a r154 soarer and would like to get a full rebuild and replace that dreaded thurst washer to the billet one and upgrade my clutch at the same time
who rebuild these trannys for a fair price replacing syncros and stuff any suggestions
#28
I used a reputable transmission shop near my house.... But then again I didnt pay for labor cause the owner is a friend of mine He gave me use of his shop tools, lifts and the guidance to rebuild it too.
My total for the rebuild was 269.00 USD
But yes. Dejacky is correct. Probably the most well known is marlin crawler.
My total for the rebuild was 269.00 USD
But yes. Dejacky is correct. Probably the most well known is marlin crawler.
#30
Yeah I know what you mean... I had the option of doing that... but instead I went to Ace and got Grade 10.9 bolts and used red loctite. I think I did 40-50lbs per bolt. Those stock bolts cannot be tightened much without breaking.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
emoFTW
Performance & Maintenance
16
06-16-13 06:34 PM
baodalazi
SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)
4
03-21-11 10:54 AM