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need help asap, electrical issues inside!

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Old 06-24-09, 04:00 PM
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DOHCZ34
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Originally Posted by ucfa4
It is most likely a problem with you interior wire harness, if it becomes unplugged none of the dash, or radio will work. Your seats and doors run off a different harness. As far as you losing power steering i have no idea bc that runs off the acc belt.
Where does the interior harness hook up? My power seats work but my power windows/locks don't. I never lost power steering, I said I lost power steering assist.
Old 06-24-09, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DOHCZ34
My sc300 doesn't have a distirbutor

Update though, I pulled the starter relay and jumper'd it and the car starts and runs. I still don't have power to my dash/windows/radio/hvac/locks...
LOL thats right you have the vvti engine. Is your car lowered at all?
Old 06-24-09, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TheMole
LOL thats right you have the vvti engine. Is your car lowered at all?
Factory suspension.
Old 06-28-09, 09:04 AM
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still no progress made, I did try and start it yesterday though and the battery was almost dead. I've gotta find where that power draw is coming from.
Old 06-28-09, 09:26 AM
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So you are discharging your batt also. It sounds like you could have so wires crossing or something. The harness i am speaking of connects on each side of the dash it provides power for basically everything under your dash like the ac, headunit, cluster, etc. If this is somehow disconnecting or a wire is grounding i think it may be your problem. It connects on your driversside in three places i believe its an orange, blue, and white plug. On passenger side it connects to everything on the right side plastic plug terminal. Its connected to the side of the passenger area in front of the door. Its difficult to explain sorry. If you have an aftermarket headunit this may be the problem. Otherwise i couldnt figure out how this stock wire harness could somehow break. Gl
Old 06-28-09, 01:43 PM
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Anyone in the twin cities metro area feel like helping me find this electrical gremlin??
Old 06-30-09, 10:42 AM
  #22  
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bumping this.

I got my power locks back somehow. I tried my hazard button and all my signals come on. If I try to use the turn signal though they don't work. Another odd thing I found poking around with the multimeter is that I only have power to 2 fuses in my lower left side fusepanel with the key in the on position. I found a bit of corrosion on one of the fuses down there so i'm gonna pull that fuse panel out here in a few and see how serious it is. I'm still leaning on it being a short somewhere in the column though, since all of this happened when I went to use my turn signal. If anyone has any thoughts on my issue please post! Thanks for the help so far.

-Chris
Old 07-01-09, 12:01 PM
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ttt??? still looking for some pointers.

-Chris
Old 07-09-09, 05:32 PM
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hoping a lexus tech see this or something
Old 07-09-09, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DOHCZ34
hoping a lexus tech see this or something
Try having this moved into the maintenance forum. There are usually a few techs and experienced guys there.
Old 07-10-09, 02:20 PM
  #26  
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i am having the same freakin problem.
battery checked fine
no fuses blown
battery light on
when i use my turn signals or headlights the car dims hello low

ive changed the alternator to a tt 94 supra unit and it did it worse that the car would shut off...
i put the old alternator on and it works but i still have the batt light on....wtf is going on...
Old 07-10-09, 05:03 PM
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what is your charging voltage at idle? A battery sitting there at 12V isn't a guarantee it's OK.

If your alternator or regulator is failing what you describe is probably happening. All those circuts failing at once usually indicates a major failure. Your battery is basically cooked from lack of charge.

Unless the car has been seriously dismantled before it would be tough to blame any harnesses, those don't usually fail unless it's been tampered with.

Check your charging voltage at idle - break out a digital multimeter and come back to us.

rjp
Old 07-10-09, 05:08 PM
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Voltage should be over easily over +12.5 at idle, then rev the motor. It shouldn't go any higher than +14.4V- anything over / under those indicate alternator or regulator problems, and around +13V at any given moment is what you should be charging at. if the voltage readings don't move when you gas it, then there you go, dead alternator.

If there's low enough voltage your dash may not have enough power to fire up.
Old 11-22-09, 06:57 PM
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Bumping this thread back up. I replaced my driver side lower fuse panel and I got all my power back. However, the car still won't start on it's own power.

Here's what my situation consists of currently.

When car is in P or N, the dash illumination is off and the car doesn't start when I turn the key. I can however use a jumper wire to bypass the starter relay and I can start the car and drive it normally with no issues. When I move the shifter to anything else besides P or N, the dash illumination comes back.

Here is a pic with the ign in the "on" position with the car in park, car not running.



If I move the shifter into anything besides P or N the dash illumination comes back, no other changes besides moving the shifter to R and D we have these pics





Here's the next kicker. If I remove the 7.5A IGN fuse from the driver kick fuse panel, my dash illumenation
Old 11-22-09, 07:06 PM
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Bumping this thread back up. I replaced my driver side lower fuse panel and I got all my power back. However, the car still won't start on it's own power.

Here's what my situation consists of currently.

When car is in P or N, the dash illumination is off and the car doesn't start when I turn the key. I can however use a jumper wire to bypass the starter relay and I can start the car and drive it normally with no issues. When I move the shifter to anything else besides P or N, the dash illumination comes back.

Here is a pic with the ign in the "on" position with the car in park, car not running.



If I move the shifter into anything besides P or N the dash illumination comes back, no other changes besides moving the shifter to R and D we have these pics





Here's the next kicker. If I remove the 7.5A IGN fuse from the driver kick fuse panel, my dash illumination comes back in ALL gears. Car still won't start with the key. Now if I jumper the starter relay with my wire, the car only cranks, but won't run.

I'm pulling my hair out trying to track this issue, but since I have other car's to drive it's kinda been pushed to the back burner.

Any help is better than none!


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