My 1JZGTE thread, 93 SC300 with W58
07-31-10 | 05:57 AM
#137
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Ca
I'm pretty new to the Toyota scene and haven't really posted much on here but I wanted to say thanks for the write-up and all the info you have provided. I am planning to start a 1JZ swap within the next couple of weeks and this is one of the most plainly written, user friendly but to the point threads I have read on the swap. Bundles of information and not a lot of headache trying to read through the lines if you will.
Hopefully with this and some of the other information that is actually shared (opposed to hidden as a lot seems to be) from other members my swap will go smooth and I can have the car apart and back together with boost within a few weeks.
Hopefully with this and some of the other information that is actually shared (opposed to hidden as a lot seems to be) from other members my swap will go smooth and I can have the car apart and back together with boost within a few weeks.
08-17-10 | 08:18 PM
#139
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Misawa,Japan or Deployed
Emanage Ultimate Installed
Finally got around to installing it before this road trip of mine. What an eye opener. New full 3" exhaust causes boost cut like crazy under 65-70% throttle. Fixing that tomorrow and seeing where it takes me.
Edit- Tru boost was fully installed during the downpipe install and going to start raising the boost when I get more comfortable with the EMU. Now I just need a car adapter for the laptop.
Edit- Tru boost was fully installed during the downpipe install and going to start raising the boost when I get more comfortable with the EMU. Now I just need a car adapter for the laptop.
Last edited by GSXRMack; 08-17-10 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Tru boost.
01-15-11 | 08:29 AM
#140
For those that have asked. A couple guys have.
Here goes if I have time to finish it(If not finished I will continue later when I get off work.
--Engine mounts(both of mine broke)
--2JZGTE throttle Cable(requires Moving throttle bracket one bolt back,I am not crazy about this so I am looking at the 92-94 camry cable so I can put it in the stock spot with both bolts.)
--Resurface/New Flywheel/New Flywheel Bolts if removing it or new install/
--Clutch/Pressure plate bolts/LOCTITE
--Time
--150ft. Of high temp wire to extend your body plugs at least 18 inches.(Enough room for me)
--Patch harness to extend the ECU unless you want to cut the knock sensor wires then use a shielded cable, USB will work)
--Upper and lower Radiator hoses for the MKIV Turbo(plus clamps)
--180 bend Heater hose from Advance/autozone/oreillys.(Be careful removing the stock stuff because I crimped mine and messed it up)
--New 2JZ PCV valve and grommet
--Patience.
--Coolant.
--Oil and filter
--Gear oil for manual trans. (drain before pulling motor)(Otherwise mess)--ATF for power steering fluid
--Recommend the Power Steering line by Vgnomorehttps://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...so-pretty.html Get more Copper Crush Washers, Got pieces from ANplumbing dot com
--Stock intercooler, pipes or FMIC
--Stock SC300 exhaust bolts up.
--Vacuum lines
--Bolt kit for asian vehicles(Got mine from advance)
--Degreaser/Rags
--Offset 14MM wrench(Assuming the 1J is an auto)(Through clutch inspection plate on the bottom or through the starter hole)(Mine was on the ground so I went with the starter hole option)
--Some chemical to get paint marker off of the valve cover and every piece you receive.
Probably more add later
WIRING ANOMALIES
--Match up the temp wire(I will Get wire color/location)(Ground the wire)
--Bypass tach resistor(R109 I believe)(Didn't apply to me as my tach is dead)(I had the 2k sputtering because a tach signal was not being used, therefor Initiated a RPM cut)
--CEl (Copy/paste)The CEL needs to be wired, solve this by… -Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working. I just cut the blue/yellow wire and soldered them together so I wouldn’t have to deal with changing out pins, and it works just fine.
--
Post more later gotta run.........
Here goes if I have time to finish it(If not finished I will continue later when I get off work.
--Engine mounts(both of mine broke)
--2JZGTE throttle Cable(requires Moving throttle bracket one bolt back,I am not crazy about this so I am looking at the 92-94 camry cable so I can put it in the stock spot with both bolts.)
--Resurface/New Flywheel/New Flywheel Bolts if removing it or new install/
--Clutch/Pressure plate bolts/LOCTITE
--Time
--150ft. Of high temp wire to extend your body plugs at least 18 inches.(Enough room for me)
--Patch harness to extend the ECU unless you want to cut the knock sensor wires then use a shielded cable, USB will work)
--Upper and lower Radiator hoses for the MKIV Turbo(plus clamps)
--180 bend Heater hose from Advance/autozone/oreillys.(Be careful removing the stock stuff because I crimped mine and messed it up)
--New 2JZ PCV valve and grommet
--Patience.
--Coolant.
--Oil and filter
--Gear oil for manual trans. (drain before pulling motor)(Otherwise mess)--ATF for power steering fluid
--Recommend the Power Steering line by Vgnomorehttps://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...so-pretty.html Get more Copper Crush Washers, Got pieces from ANplumbing dot com
--Stock intercooler, pipes or FMIC
--Stock SC300 exhaust bolts up.
--Vacuum lines
--Bolt kit for asian vehicles(Got mine from advance)
--Degreaser/Rags
--Offset 14MM wrench(Assuming the 1J is an auto)(Through clutch inspection plate on the bottom or through the starter hole)(Mine was on the ground so I went with the starter hole option)
--Some chemical to get paint marker off of the valve cover and every piece you receive.
Probably more add later
WIRING ANOMALIES
--Match up the temp wire(I will Get wire color/location)(Ground the wire)
--Bypass tach resistor(R109 I believe)(Didn't apply to me as my tach is dead)(I had the 2k sputtering because a tach signal was not being used, therefor Initiated a RPM cut)
--CEl (Copy/paste)The CEL needs to be wired, solve this by… -Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working. I just cut the blue/yellow wire and soldered them together so I wouldn’t have to deal with changing out pins, and it works just fine.
--
Post more later gotta run.........
Is it necessary to drain the gear oil out? IIRC, the guys who changed out my clutch dropped my trans and it didnt leak.
Im about to pull my GE motor out in the next following weeks and never did any work on a 5SP trans before.
Is the drain for the 5sp trans on the pumpkin/diff caseing? If not where can I find it? And what gear oil would ya'll recommend topping it off with?
01-15-11 | 08:52 AM
#141
Drain the trans fluid first because as soon as you remove the Driveshaft it will start to leak gear oil.
I would replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel if you haven't done it recently.
The drain bolt for the trans is on the bottom of the trans it's a big 24mm bolt i think i haven't touch a W58 in 2 years.
I would replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel if you haven't done it recently.
The drain bolt for the trans is on the bottom of the trans it's a big 24mm bolt i think i haven't touch a W58 in 2 years.
01-15-11 | 09:14 AM
#142
Drain the trans fluid first because as soon as you remove the Driveshaft it will start to leak gear oil.
I would replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel if you haven't done it recently.
The drain bolt for the trans is on the bottom of the trans it's a big 24mm bolt i think i haven't touch a W58 in 2 years.
I would replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel if you haven't done it recently.
The drain bolt for the trans is on the bottom of the trans it's a big 24mm bolt i think i haven't touch a W58 in 2 years.
By any chance did anyone figure out the TEMPRATURE fix? I been reading these threads but I dont think anyone had a solid fix.
01-15-11 | 10:41 AM
#144
12-03-11 | 07:10 PM
#145
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Misawa,Japan or Deployed
Been a while since I have posted here. I drove my SC daily since I installed the everything. Went through a bunch of crazy shiz and currently deployed again. Upon this return I won't be dumping money into a lawyer so I will spend some quality time with my SC.
Currently in need of-
Passenger side interior handle.
passenger side door opener rod( the one that connects to the outer handle)
passenger side door panel.
passenger side high beam
hmmm.....there is a trend here.
next engine upgrades
-hx35 in twins are hurting
-tial Q BOV
-new exhaust mani
-new waste gate
-new down pipe to connect all the hot stuff to the exhaust.
Overall upgrades.
-paint(have you seen it??)(Honestly with it looking like **** no one messes with it)
-carpet(it's a 93 DD, and I work on aircraft that leak oil and hydro everywhere)
-seats9mine are ripped to hell)
Anyhoo I'm back.(kinda)
Currently in need of-
Passenger side interior handle.
passenger side door opener rod( the one that connects to the outer handle)
passenger side door panel.
passenger side high beam
hmmm.....there is a trend here.
next engine upgrades
-hx35 in twins are hurting
-tial Q BOV
-new exhaust mani
-new waste gate
-new down pipe to connect all the hot stuff to the exhaust.
Overall upgrades.
-paint(have you seen it??)(Honestly with it looking like **** no one messes with it)
-carpet(it's a 93 DD, and I work on aircraft that leak oil and hydro everywhere)
-seats9mine are ripped to hell)
Anyhoo I'm back.(kinda)
12-04-11 | 04:27 PM
#148
yea man every that knows tries to charge upwards of $100 for the part, i think lexus charges $300....just make sure you remove the lower bolt to the window guide at the back of the door by the assembly and be careful. On mine it was a rounded bolt that was philips head size 3 that easily stripped as well as one of the 2 sc300s i found in the junk yard..thankfully i just broke one to remove it (the assembly was in better condition) however the other sc300 had a 8 or 10mm head and philips so i took that as well for my car to make it easy if it happened again 
