snowfox444

What does NA-T mean? I want to boost HP in my stock engine, is it possible to supercharge or turbo the 1uz? If I wanted 600 hp, would it just be cheaper to go with the 1jz swap? Im kind of reluctant to do so from all the problems I've read about with the swaps and things not fitting and little mods to other things etc. I anm no mechanic by any means and have minimal to no knowledge abot cars, but I've learned a TREMENDOUS amount from this forum!!!
My car is also a daily driver at 140k miles. Being i just bought the car, it will take me a little while before I modify for performance. I just want to know what I should save up for?

vietunit

iTrader: (5)

RESEARCH, seriously the internet has so much information, its shocking.

Your thinking about boosting but you have no idea what NA-T is?

I don't even have a SC yet but I've already READ up tremendous amounts of information and there is still more to be read.

So basically,

1) Set a goal
2) Research x 9999999
3) Achieve that goal

Turb0wned

In my MKIV i went NA-T and would do it again BUT in the sc300 i am going 1jz. Its such an easy swap. NA-T you have the gay intake manifold, distributor, you much right off the bat get some kind of fuel managment (which i still think its a must ether way) with the 1jz the Ecu is already made for the setup. No drilling and tapping with the 1jz. Low mileage with thE 1jz. You already have low compression which = more boost safely. Yes i no you can make good power with the 2jzge stock compression but lets be real, lower compression makes you feel better about your motor.

RED95sc

iTrader: (1)

hmmm interesting, well i went 1jz and not na-t cuz to me it was a cheaper solution with the only headache being extending the wire harness. i dont have to upgrade fuel system yet to run double digit boost, i dont have to worry bout changing my head gasket, which is very expensive, not to mention a $1200-1500 single turbo kit. lets stop painting the picture that you can just throw a turbo on a GE motor and make big power safely, but with a 1jz, you can with the only limiting factor being the 370cc injectors. bottom line is, if your gonna swap, do a 1jz, or 2jzgte, its gonna cost you the same or more to make a GE motor(done right) make the same power. it was an easy descision for me since i didnt have the 2jzgte money at the time, but if i wanted i can use my 1jz harness, and ecu on a 2jzgte in the future

countrygre

am no mechanic nor i do mechanic work,base on 2nd hand info, with no experiance in driving niether 1jzgte or 2jzgte, i drive a 97 sc300, and i had a 1990 supra 7m which i love but i was broken heart with a bad head gasket.,i will say or give the 1jz my vote for under 800 hp,2jz for 800 hp plus, torque breaks parts,i say the right way to with a torquee motor is the v160 6 speed, 5 speed is for the 1jz, so i vote for 1jz, it seems like the 1jz is a more streetable engine,can i say less torque more control, it seems pep crash alot of high hp 2j on the street

boostd4

I've done retarded amounts of research on this because I'll be going 1JZ VVTi this fall.

The VVTi's are torque MONSTERS. Definitely the best choice for a street car if you want an easy 350-400whp. More than that is going to cost you some money.

Reasons why VVTi' motors make more torque:

1) VVTi - reduced/no overlap spools turbos down low, increased overlap up top helps the motor breath at high RPM.

2) Increased compression. VVTi motors are 9:1 vs, 8.5:1 for earlier 1J's

3) Head design. VVTi motors have slightly smaller head ports to increase exhaust gas velocity. Airspeed spools turbos, not air volume. This may hurt a VVTi car that's shooting for 500+hp, but can be worked around if you are willing to machine (and you should be at that level). Also to be noted, the exhaust ports in the head have much better shape than the earlier 1J's as well as even port sizes (no smaller ports on some cylinders).

My plan is 400whp with a GT3076R (which will bolt onto the stock single turbo manifold with a $50 adapter) and a Power FC standalone (has VVTi control built in).

In 5 years when I buy a sport roof NA MKIV Supra I may want more power. At this point, I'll throw the 2JZGE bottom end on it (it requires about $250 in machine work to make the coolant passages line up), and have the head ported. Then it will probably get a GT35R and I'd like to shoot for 600whp, while still making 500wtq before 4000rpm.... that's a monster!

600+ wheel horsepower in a street car is for bragging rights or highway runs only. If you're on a street tire doing speeds that you won't have your car impounded for, you'll NEVER use that much power... it'll just spin tires. Of course, it's a different story if you're a roll racer or it's a track car..

vietunit

iTrader: (5)

^ Very well said. The words of a man who has done his research.

vangb2

iTrader: (2)

These are my reasons only, and maybe some others:

1. I swapped mine to a 1jzgte because it sounds cool to have a "TWIN TURBO"
2. There are more to the set up than slapping a turbo onto your 2jzge. You will still need some sort of management.
3. 1jzgte looks cleaner. Does not have the ugly intake pipe across the engine. Use ignition coils, not the ugly wires hanging around.
4. Just to say that you have done a SWAP.

My set-up:
1jzgte
Motorsport 6860 EMS ecu
255 inline Walbro pump
T88 turbo w/greddy piping (getting new tig weld custom pipe soon)
R154 tranny with F1 stage 3 clutch (going with 4 carbon exedy clutch soon)
and a bunch of other misc stuff.....

boostd4

To play devil's advocate...

If I were planning on staying auto, I'd just buy an Aristo 2JZ and be done with it. 2J's are easier to mod, can get you 400whp on the stock turbos, and there's a great 2J/AEM tuner in just about every state.

1J's make more sense for people who are auto, but want to swap to manual because you get the solid R154 trans with 1J stick motorsets, and you get it all for cheap. My choice for a VVTi 1J is because I like torque, have low power goals (<500whp), and because they only came in Chasers in manual transmission. The chaser R154 shifter already has the extension housing and needs no modification to fit right.

If you buy a non-VVTi earlier 1J, the vast majority come out of MK3 Supras and you'll have to buy the extension housing parts, or have it custom extended (either way will run you ~$300 extra).

I feel like I've typed this several times in the last month. I'll stop spamming it - it should be easily search-able

boostd4

Not to discount vangb2's opinion, but all but reason #2 are horrible reasons to choose a 1J or any other swap.

If you're swapping your car to get others approval, attention, or admiration, you will be disappointed in the end. It doesn't get you girls, make you better looking, or win you any prizes. Do it for yourself - and figure out what YOU want before you pull the trigger.

vangb2

iTrader: (2)

Actually it does, you must not have it all to not have experience it! Nobody do it for themself, everyone does it for a reason of having a name. Don't try to burn the truth and reality from your political correctness. We all know that if you do it for yourself you would not need to to it.

BTW, VVTI is a horrible idea because support is extreamly limited.

boostd4

lol.

He's right that VVTi is a horrible idea if you want more than 500whp, cheaply (but he also probably has a very small ***** if he needs a car to do all those things for him....).