sc-driver

iTrader: (7)

naw, Matt mentioned in another post that the wires are all okay and that they've been relocated.

I think we're narrowing this down a lot actually. I've mentioned that I think its exhaust related. Number 1, check for any leaks. And number two, check for clogged cats.

If you need anymore help, let me know. Good Luck!

AyDee

i was reading somewhere today about carburator vs injection cars and an idea hit my head

Mainly the way our cars work is mostly dependant on the reading of the main O2 sensors - According to the reading these sensors send to the ECU all the amount of fuel and air is pumped in the engine

SO, since i have cleaned my MAF, and I have checked for every possible defect in it, and I used my friends and all these did not work - I am going to check for my main O2 sensors

Note this: When i disconnect my MAF the car gains A LOT of HP - Sc400 94 vs BMW 530 2002 with no MAF i smoke the sh|t of him

with it, not so much


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Another theory might be that Toyota actually designed our cars to run this way, since they mainly are Luxury Coupes and not sports cars - who knows

The main hole in this theory is the fact that when the car is not on normal operating temp, the wheels are eating the road, but few kick downs after the normal temp is reached, bogging comes back unless MAF is DC'd


I say, screw MAF, try to use the circuit for the chip that I posted on the Part 2 post of a guy having the same issue

I will try and let you guys know

grindin8o8

i think i may have the same problems as well. im thinking exhaust leak because when the car is running there is a really bad fuel smell/stink smell and on decelerations i here a sputtering/rattling noise like somethings loose. but the smell has gotten really bad. guessing a leak or somethings loose down there. but i need to find the problem of the smell.

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

well hopefully soon I will be able to test the exhaust...

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Yeah check the exhaust. If you replaced your starter multiple times you know the EGR pipe has to be bent backward to install the manifold and fuel rail, that may cause it to crack. unless you deleted EGR and deleted the pipe too.

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

I had not removed the EGR tube. I think when I do my test pipes I will block off the EGR stuff on the manifolds since I recently unbolted the pipe when I did my transmission swap .

grindin8o8

did you guys find out what the problem is? man the problem returned. my car stalls 2 minutes after the car is on idle, and tries hard to find the bogging/stalling. car also died out on me while driving. any help?

grindin8o8

i think i have an exhaust leak as well. i have fuel/gas smell. bad mileage. when i decelerate i hear a sputtering noise right under the driver side. and i think my exhaust i lose because everytime i hit a bump/pot hole i hear this clunking noise in the rear. hmmmmmmmmm.

maxx999

Maybe your thermostat is affecting your car. www.soarercentral.com and search. Good luck