SC300 2jzGTE swap confusion
08-03-09 | 10:29 AM
#31
08-03-09 | 11:21 AM
#32
usually, the QUALITY is NOT there.
there are 2 choices of consistant, reliable quality:
#1. Toyota- oem everything is great, you just need to buy a OEM MK4 JZA80 6mt TT, or all those parts new from toyota and stuff them in your car.
#2. Hks, Boostlogix, etc etc. high end high quality proven parts with full solutions: i.e. full engine management, piping and hardware that fits like stock toyota, etc etc.
unless you have very level high fabrication / machining / engineering / engine configuration / electronic setup / dyno tuning skills..........the average joe in garage cannot even compare.
just go through the linked thread on my sig:
That is the minimal proper way to merge the electronics of a 2jzgte engine properly with OEM reliable engine management, OEM OBD diagnostic: basically my car could be dropped off at Toyota and serviced at the dealer for pretty much everything.
The money I expensed in genuine Toyota oem plastic connectors, OEM Toyota gaskets, and critical OEM Toyota engine rebuild parts (oil pump, water pump, tensioners, etc etc) could buy a complete ebay NA+t kit.
do you really want to have a ebay na+t kit on your car? NO.
do you want to have a garabage china made turbo (issues like cold side bolts vibrating loose from nvh - because It was never engineered or designed for actual use?)
theres nothing wrong with saving money, but there are serious problems with doing things crappy - Stuffing in a un-original engine always has extra fun bonus expenses.
my personal car was crappy NA+t to begin with, the NA-t kit was removed and car converted back to 100% stock NA. Drove much better, everything fit.....etc.
then i tore it all out again, and did the full monty.
2jzgte full legit (with proper factory compatible wiring and OBD) would be my choice again and again. its the CLEANEST fit, as was designed that way by Toyota
oem turbo fitament
vs NA-t
ebay NA+t kits fit like SHIZEN. turbo hot side happily burns the coupler to throttle body.
OEM has intake air pass by turbo hot zone, but post intercooler its on the complete other side of the car.
I wonder why....
there are 2 choices of consistant, reliable quality:
#1. Toyota- oem everything is great, you just need to buy a OEM MK4 JZA80 6mt TT, or all those parts new from toyota and stuff them in your car.
#2. Hks, Boostlogix, etc etc. high end high quality proven parts with full solutions: i.e. full engine management, piping and hardware that fits like stock toyota, etc etc.
unless you have very level high fabrication / machining / engineering / engine configuration / electronic setup / dyno tuning skills..........the average joe in garage cannot even compare.
just go through the linked thread on my sig:
That is the minimal proper way to merge the electronics of a 2jzgte engine properly with OEM reliable engine management, OEM OBD diagnostic: basically my car could be dropped off at Toyota and serviced at the dealer for pretty much everything.
The money I expensed in genuine Toyota oem plastic connectors, OEM Toyota gaskets, and critical OEM Toyota engine rebuild parts (oil pump, water pump, tensioners, etc etc) could buy a complete ebay NA+t kit.
do you really want to have a ebay na+t kit on your car? NO.
do you want to have a garabage china made turbo (issues like cold side bolts vibrating loose from nvh - because It was never engineered or designed for actual use?)
theres nothing wrong with saving money, but there are serious problems with doing things crappy - Stuffing in a un-original engine always has extra fun bonus expenses.
my personal car was crappy NA+t to begin with, the NA-t kit was removed and car converted back to 100% stock NA. Drove much better, everything fit.....etc.
then i tore it all out again, and did the full monty.
2jzgte full legit (with proper factory compatible wiring and OBD) would be my choice again and again. its the CLEANEST fit, as was designed that way by Toyota
oem turbo fitament
vs NA-t
ebay NA+t kits fit like SHIZEN. turbo hot side happily burns the coupler to throttle body.
OEM has intake air pass by turbo hot zone, but post intercooler its on the complete other side of the car.
I wonder why....
Last edited by wanganstyl; 08-03-09 at 11:25 AM.
08-03-09 | 07:57 PM
#33
Umm, good point but i'm on the swap side. To be honest I dont want to go NA-T because it looks like a hot mess. The car is a Lexus, why not maintain a clean and classy look. What I meant by saving money is doing research. One of the main reason I have not bought a motor is because I still have some unanswered questions. Some things need to be OEM and some.....not so much, FMIC, ECU, ect.
P.S Thank you for that wiring post you must have went through hell figuring it out
P.S Thank you for that wiring post you must have went through hell figuring it out
11-20-10 | 03:34 PM
#34
Pole Position
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: Florida
have you thought about just turbo'ing your existing 2jzge with a headgasket.
if you run an AEM on an na-t I can tell you there is hardly any wiring involved, except connecting the map and iat sensor in the engine bay (5 very short wires). takes like 10 minutes, and then you already have an AEM with a big single turbo.
pretty much what I did except i am pushing 9psi on the stock headgasket cause im crazy like that.
if you run an AEM on an na-t I can tell you there is hardly any wiring involved, except connecting the map and iat sensor in the engine bay (5 very short wires). takes like 10 minutes, and then you already have an AEM with a big single turbo.
pretty much what I did except i am pushing 9psi on the stock headgasket cause im crazy like that.
This is why I just recommend the Haltech PS2000. Has built in MAP sensor and utilizes all the other factory sensors..... has more tuneability then the AEM and costs less too. I had one for my 1jz supra... parted it out. Now Im gonna get one for my 2jzgte v161 swap. ITS GONNA BE SICK!!!!!!
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