Performance & Maintenance Engine, forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

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Old 07-28-09 | 11:53 AM
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Default hesitation

I just bought a 95 sc400 with 200,000 miles on it in the morn if i try and drive the car before it is warm it doesnt wanna go, and now if i am around 25 mph it is very sluggish but as soon as i push on the gas it clears up any hlp would be nice...
Old 07-28-09 | 07:07 PM
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It seems like 95 SC4s seem to have a low throttle position hesitation. Ive got a full tune up and new cat. conv., cant seem to get it comp. cleared up. I recommend all filters, plug wires and plugs. Be prepared when doing the fuel filter.
Old 07-28-09 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by over40driv
It seems like 95 SC4s seem to have a low throttle position hesitation. Ive got a full tune up and new cat. conv., cant seem to get it comp. cleared up. I recommend all filters, plug wires and plugs. Be prepared when doing the fuel filter.
yeh i changed the fuel filter today too it didnt hlp but i also put on a cone k&n air filter and it seems like it got worse unplugged the mass sensor and the car drove perfect but i got a check ingine light so im gonna change the mass air sensor now ..
Old 07-29-09 | 12:48 AM
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It does not have to be the Mass Air Sensor - when u disconnect your AFM all what you are doing is make your ECU run in safe mode - meaning it is sending an air-fuel mixture dependant on the RPM and other PHYSICAL factors not electrical signals from sensors

before you try the AFM, try to replace your Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (20 dollars) and see where that gets you. there is a thread on how to test your AFM to see if it is working.

search a little more there is a handful of people having the same issue you are having, including myslef

Ali
Old 07-29-09 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by AyDee
It does not have to be the Mass Air Sensor - when u disconnect your AFM all what you are doing is make your ECU run in safe mode - meaning it is sending an air-fuel mixture dependant on the RPM and other PHYSICAL factors not electrical signals from sensors

before you try the AFM, try to replace your Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (20 dollars) and see where that gets you. there is a thread on how to test your AFM to see if it is working.

search a little more there is a handful of people having the same issue you are having, including myslef

Ali
where is this located.
Old 07-29-09 | 09:11 AM
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where are the threads or the ECT? be more specific with ur questions please
Old 07-30-09 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by AyDee
where are the threads or the ECT? be more specific with ur questions please
wow took the k&n filter off and put the factory air box bck prob solved car runs like its brand new now..

Last edited by brazil; 07-31-09 at 05:00 AM.
Old 07-30-09 | 12:51 PM
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interesting
Old 07-30-09 | 12:51 PM
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did u have an after market air filter? did you replace the entire air box or just the filter?
Old 07-30-09 | 02:09 PM
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he probably had a cone or a bfi that wasnt sealed.
these cars work best with the factory CAI or a eealed BFI.
putting a cone filter without a turbo is decreasing power for sure.
Old 07-31-09 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AyDee
did u have an after market air filter? did you replace the entire air box or just the filter?
I had a k&n air filter with the housing but when u look threw the addapter that bolts to the factory mass it looked smaller and maybe the sensor wasnt reading the right amount i dnt know but im just gonna do the bfi..
Old 07-31-09 | 02:26 PM
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Bought 2 dist. caps and rotors from Lex. today for my car. Only a few dollars more than the parts house. I am a mechanic and do get some discount.
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