slappy96

Completely rebuilt 2JZGTE has been running for two weeks. Toward the end of the first week it started to idle rough and eventually died close to my house and wouldn't restart. I thought it was the fuel pump so I put a new TT Denso in. Started up and drove it home, ran fine but still a little rough idle. Next day won't start. See sig for specific engine details, but here is what I know...

It is getting fuel for sure. I did a quick 12V mod and fuel flows into the rail and down the return like a river. I can hear it. Still no start. I will not leave the 12V mod in place, but I was just trying to narrow things down.

EFI Relay is not the culprit. I swapped the EFI relay with another identical one and no go. INJ 30A fuse is also good.

There are lots of things left, but I'm not sure which ones prevent startup and which ones will simply affect proper operation.

TPS sensor-possibility but I don't know if it would simply prevent startup if this was bad. Remember the car always ran ok with throttle to it. It all started with a rough idle when warm.

IACV-possibility, but again I don't know if it would prevent starting the car at all.

Camshaft sensors, Crank sensor-haven't tested them yet for resistance.

Water temp sensor-If this is dead, will it prevent ignition or simply run in fail-safe or closed loop.

Coil packs-They couldn't all be dead, but something else could prevent them from getting a signal.

Igniter-it's brand new. I'm going to test it with an ohmeter, but I'm skeptical that it's the culprit.

The only cel I ever threw was code 42 which is the speed sensor off the tranny. I don't think that will prevent ignition.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

lemmiewink

I would check for spark. You have fuel. I assume that it turns over so you have compression.

You seem to know what you are doing goin off of your build thread (definately more so than me )so I will skip procedures for checking spark.

The things that affect spark and timing are the cam and crank sensors and igniter. I tested my ingiter by seeing if it distributes the spark signels to the right place.

Also you might want to check if your timing belt jumped a tooth. I throw it in there because it happened to me and created a no spark condition.

Did you replace or move the tps at any time? If so you have to calibrate it. It might help your warm idle problem. I assumed you cleaned your IAC during your very clean build, if not this may affect your idle also.

I also assume that you are talkin about the idle air control valve and not the inlet air control valve which is part of the sequential system.

I have gone through some no start conditions from no crank, to no fuel, to no spark for my swap and only have input on what I have experienced. I apologize for the narrow minded solutions.

DO you have a wideband installed? IF so what is your A/F during this rough warm idle? Also can you describe it? Does it idle increadibly low (below 500)?
I hope somone else chimes in on what I missed. Good luck

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Did you have a stock fuel pump before the Denso? Did you boost on it?

The coolant temp sensor would cause a super rich condition, but I don't see it causing a no start situation.

I'd suspect, mass airflow, cam sensors, crank sensor and ECU.

No trouble code...that sucks.

slappy96

I appreciate the inputs guys. Still working on the issue. I'll let you know when it's resolved.

Yahoo27

I think if the iscv is stuck closed it wouldn't idle...... I think thats also hapening to my 1jz. Try unplugging the iscv and see if it idles high

lemmiewink

What is the ISCV? You might be mistaken for some other acronymn.

Yahoo27

Idle speed control valve....

lemmiewink

Is the IAC valve and the ISC valve not the same? Care to explain what the difference is?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Tomato tamato. People coming from different backgrounds of various GM and imports have different acronyms for it.

OP can you be a little more specific about the symptoms? Will it start everytime? If so, does it start quick, idle well? Same questions when cold and warm. etc. etc. It will help narrow down the problems. If it will crank and start really well, that rules out cam and crank sensor (for the most part). If it wont start, or takes awhile to start and but then idles well, I would start with the coolant sensor. If it won't start period, then check cam/crank. If it will start and idle well, but then get's progressively worse at idle when warm.... check your coil packs really well. Alot of times the coil packs will crack or the boots will split after they have been sitting for awhile like in a pulled JDM application. Ignitor is also a possbilitly as wink suggested.

slappy96

Again, thanks for the inputs.

I figured out what it is. My injectors are not firing at all. Great fuel pressure, spark so I took the intake hose off to make sure it got air if the iacv wasn't working. No good, so I had a buddy spray gas in the manifold. Fired right up and died 2-3 sec later when it burned the gas up.

So... My only guesses are:
1. ECU is bad(at least as far as sending injector signal.
2. Wire continuity is bad in the loom.

Any input on how to narrow this down greatly appreciated.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Check the outputs at the ECU first. Then confirm it's at the resistor box, finally, at the injectors. Nothing out of ECU = bad ECU.

Out of ECU but nothing at the resistor = ripping harness open.

Out of ECU and out of resistor (into and out) but not at the injectors = check your grounds on the lower IM.

slappy96

What resistor box? I don't need anything like that with JDM 440cc do I? If so, then that obviously a problem.

How would I check outputs at the ecu? I apologize for being amateur here, but electrical stuff is not my best game.

Lastly, I'm 99% that all of my grounds were correct. From the loom I can think of one that bolts to the lower intake runner, one to the block from the batt, one from the head to the top of the firewall, one from tranny bellhousing to undercarriage. Any others off the top of your head to check.

Thanks for helping.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

There should be two grounds on the lower IM.

Check injectors as follows:


Pinout as follows:




If you have no voltage it means one of two things, 1 your ground has come loose for the injectors, or 2 there is no output from the ecu. 1 is more likely imho.

slappy96

2JZlex,

I owe you BIGTIME man. The aft ground on the lower intake runner was essentially hanging off. The other day I was searching for the tranny dipstick mount bolt and I remember loosening a wrong bolt....attention diverted for a second and you can guess the rest. I found the loose bolt, tightened it and presto. IGNITION! I never knew the importance of grounds.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Good call 2JZlex!

I thought you were USDM MAF for some reason Slappy...anyways..yea those 2 ECU grounds at the intake are a must have.

You're clear for take off.