SC300 wont go past 4000rpm
02-01-10, 01:17 PM
#18
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Location: IL
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I'm just going off general automotive diagnosis, I'm not familiar with where the sensor is on a 2JZGE. The car HAS to have one, or fuel injection wouldn't be possible. Usually crank sensors are either a trigger wheel on the front crank snout, or in the bellhousing on the transmission side. As for cam sensors, some cars don't have them, others have them in the timing cover, or in the distributor itself. I'm sure someone more 2J familiar can chime in.
02-21-10, 04:03 PM
#19
I checked the timing and is at about 15 and when I jump to base timing it goes down to 10...so timing seems pretty normal. I jumped the ports to check for CEL codes but the ECU did not store any. I also noticed the ignition rotor looked a little burnt so I replaced that but the car still runs the same. I replaced all the cracked hoses and couplers but the car still runs the same. So a few questions, my dist. says 1jzge on it is that normal? Can someone check theirs and see if it says the same thing? Also I noticed the spark plugs I used which were the NGK Iridiums did not have -11 at the end of the part number. Would any of these issues effect the car? It feels more like a fuel cut at 5k rpm then a hesitation because it wont let me go past 5k. I was thinking maybe the previous owner bought cheap wires or the fuel injectors are clogged. Anyone know the side effects of bad injectors or bad plug wires? I know I have alot of questions but I hope someone on here would be able to help me out.
02-23-10, 08:16 AM
#22
they are built into the distributor. as the gear is turned there are pickups in the base of the distributor that put out these signals.
edit: apparently its a common part between 1jzge and 2jzge. i think its normal
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=802168
the -11 after the plugs refers to the initial gap they come with, but its still not exactly correct and you should make sure your plugs have the correct gap.
also make sure there are no air leaks and that your crankcase and pcv hoses are connected and that the pcv is operating properly.
I think its time to point the finger at your fuel pump.
do you smell unburnt fuel when this happens?
if you do its likely ignition, if you smell no fuel its most likely a fuel issue.
If you had a fuel pressure gauge you could see while revving you could tell right away.
Ive heard of old pumps not being able to flow as much as they used to and you sort of hit an rpm wall.
solution to that problem would be a new or aftermarket pump.
other possible culprits i saw while doing a quick search,
vehicle speed sensor, if it is malfunctioning it could lower the rev limit.
edit: apparently its a common part between 1jzge and 2jzge. i think its normal
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=802168
the -11 after the plugs refers to the initial gap they come with, but its still not exactly correct and you should make sure your plugs have the correct gap.
also make sure there are no air leaks and that your crankcase and pcv hoses are connected and that the pcv is operating properly.
I think its time to point the finger at your fuel pump.
do you smell unburnt fuel when this happens?
if you do its likely ignition, if you smell no fuel its most likely a fuel issue.
If you had a fuel pressure gauge you could see while revving you could tell right away.
Ive heard of old pumps not being able to flow as much as they used to and you sort of hit an rpm wall.
solution to that problem would be a new or aftermarket pump.
other possible culprits i saw while doing a quick search,
vehicle speed sensor, if it is malfunctioning it could lower the rev limit.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-23-10 at 08:40 AM.
03-01-10, 06:40 AM
#23
Well I swapped fuel pumps and ecu again this past weekend but the car still ran the same. The only thing left I can think of is Fuel Pressure Regular, Fuel Injectors, or Distributor. Anyone know what the symptoms would be if one of these things went bad? I would assume injectors would be through out the power band, same with the distributor. Not sure about FPR maybe it doesn't' have enough pressure? Stumped...
03-01-10, 12:03 PM
#24
im gonna assume you fully reset your main cars ecu at some point.
I would assume a fuel gauge would be the easiest way to test your fuel system.
Your problem may lie within the electronics. what do you know about the history of the car? did it ever have an engine swap, was it an original 5 speed?
If I were you I would take a look at the main ecu and the harness and look for signs of tampering. first make sure the ecu is for a manual transmission (M/T) and not an auto (A/T). if its an auto ecu and was not connected correctly to run a 5 spd you could have these problems. same with whether the ecu has trac control and wether the engine has it and if someone pulled the fuses to do a speed limiter delete. there are just so many possiblities of what the last guy did. this info should be stamped on the front of your ecu.
If it sounds like its running perfectly up to 5k then hits a wall, look at the electronics.
if its sputtering up to 5k and dying out then lean more towards fuel and spark.
or drag it into the dealer and pay the going rate for a full diagnosis.
I would assume a fuel gauge would be the easiest way to test your fuel system.
Your problem may lie within the electronics. what do you know about the history of the car? did it ever have an engine swap, was it an original 5 speed?
If I were you I would take a look at the main ecu and the harness and look for signs of tampering. first make sure the ecu is for a manual transmission (M/T) and not an auto (A/T). if its an auto ecu and was not connected correctly to run a 5 spd you could have these problems. same with whether the ecu has trac control and wether the engine has it and if someone pulled the fuses to do a speed limiter delete. there are just so many possiblities of what the last guy did. this info should be stamped on the front of your ecu.
If it sounds like its running perfectly up to 5k then hits a wall, look at the electronics.
if its sputtering up to 5k and dying out then lean more towards fuel and spark.
or drag it into the dealer and pay the going rate for a full diagnosis.
03-24-10, 05:44 PM
#25
No good. So today I decide to pull the spark plugs back out and cylinder 6 has oil on the plug and cylinder 5 has coolant on the plug. Now I'm thinking it's a headgasket. Make any sense to you guys? Looks like a pain in the a** to replace too. Is there a DIY on it? Any suggestions? I'll be doing a compression test on it within the next 2 days or so. We'll see what the results are.
04-09-10, 10:00 PM
#27
So I got the car fixed. I just redid the plugs and wires and the car runs fine now. I have a new problem though, a week after getting it fixed the car wont idle or start unless I have my foot on the gas pedal. The car doesn't idle but if I lightly gas it'll stay on. Does this seem like a typical bad Idle Air Control Valve symptom? I searched around but most things related to IACV is high idle or looping idle. Not much on no idle.
04-20-10, 08:21 PM
#28
Good news today. I got a full replacement of injectors, fuel rail, and fuel pressure redgulator and got them installed today. Car runs perfect now so I believe that was the main issue. I'm sure it needed a full tune up anyways since as I replaced parts in increments it gradually started to run better. It's expected of a car with 180k and built in '92 I guess. I'm just glad that's all behind me now and I can start to enjoy the vehicle for whats it worth. A pic for amusement.
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