SC300T

Its going... Status is: valve stems leaking really bad... (Expected of a 150k mile car that's been beaten). Can see oil trail in exhaust ports of head leading from the stem down the runners.

Compression #s all look good except #4, where there is a score line from a peice of metal. This cylinder measures marginal and is barely within Lexus spec. Rest of the engine looks superb, especially for 150k.

Somehow some metal got into a couple places and caused the scoring. Note to turbo upgraders: do everything you can to get the metal out of the block when you drill the oil return line. Install a magnetic oil drain plug.

Now on the topic:

I'm sure the F-Max kit is very passable and if you're saving thousands over the Toyomoto kit, its probably worth it. Even if you expect some problems to arise, they should be easy to fix. If these things catch fire, have the mechanic go over the fuel routing upon install and provide a more secure setup with aeroquip fittings and braided lines---its not rocket science. The fuel part of it is simple. If the manifold cracks, it can be re-welded. The risk here isn't huge, just a matter of taking stuff back off the car to fix. Of course, the Toyomoto stuff is practically bulletproof, but only the individual person can tell if its worth a few thousand more to avoid problems to begin with. If you need an ultimately reliable car and are willing to pay extra, go with Toyomoto.

If Lance is quoting $7k and $8k for a stage 1.5 kit, it means that he's busy enough to get the money. When business settles down, the price will drop, too... I've received a lot of other perks from buying the kit from Toyomoto, Lance will actually spend time to talk to me and give me personal recommendations, help me plan upgrades, lend me tools, provide sensors, fittings, springs, etc. all at no charge... You spend the money once, and he takes care of you---in addition to the quality, that's why people come back to him, he IS the guy to talk to when it comes to turboing the SC3.

Lex Luthor

SupraCoup, the guy you're thinking of is 'lexkid', he says he's had no problems at all with the FMAX, and I have yet to meet a person that's owned it and said it's crap, just rumors too, can we get a single person on here that can personally attest to problems that were directly the cause of FMAX's design? I totally agree with Scott, if you need the bulletproof parts and access to a 2JZ turbo guru and all the support that comes with that, then the choice is clear - Toyomoto, but for those of us who can diagnose and fix most of our own problems and may be looking to save a couple grand, the FMAX looks pretty damn good. By the way, look at the FMAX and the Toyomoto manifolds, they are very similar. I'd personally prefer an equal-length manifold over either, but let's get some more input on turbo kits other than Toyomoto, we all know by this point how good their stuff is and exactly what you get for your cashish, but there are alternatives. I spoke to PF again today, i'm starting to think that may be the best deal for East Coasters that don't want to have a Toyomoto kit installed locally or are afraid of the FMAX. Paisley will have a kit at some point, plus has anyone tried that TBKO kit? SP? PHR?

awj

I've looked all over the place and I find no evidence of f-max trouble any more than any other. I'm ready to go with this set. T60, the hardware, I can powder coat the manifold - i'm gonna get it.

SC300T

Uhhh, yes... Any time you add boost, you increase cylinder pressure. Marginally worn engines will fail at the weakest point.
Ask the Supra TT guys, they replace valve stem seals at 80-120k miles... A relatively unknown thing on a 100k N/A GE motor. Fortunately, not an extremely expensive repair. The bottom on this engine is very stout and has little trouble holding up. Still, if you're running 700rwhp, don't fool yourself into thinking that the engine will last 200k miles without work, it just won't happen. The 2JZ may not catastrophically come apart, but there are some physical limits that can't be overcome, the wear on the engine is multiplied by the power produced, there is no way around it. For this reason, lower cylinder pressures are preferred...

My engine is a classic case in point. At 150k miles, its to the stage where high boost will just cause more blow by... #4 is at the limit, and the valve seals need replaced. I could easily replace the seals and run another 30k miles at current boost, but sooner or later, the lower half would need to be re-worked. Most people would consider 400rwhp for 100k miles to be near impossible on a 3 liter engine, but that's about what the 2JZ can do---impressive by any standard, but still subject to limits.

A general suggestion would be to do a leak down test to check to see if the engine will hold up to boost... If you have good even compression #s, I'd go for it. Otherwise, you may want to swap another used engine that has good #s.

benzy230

TBKO is in the process of it.....i would wait on them before i did anything!

awj

benzy230 - what are they in the process of and why would I wait other than financial reasons?

I'm interested in in the t60 on temporary stock compression. What is the a/r on the t60 and how does a/r effect spooling and turbo life? oil?

Bean

iTrader: (1)

you mean a T60-1... and there's two types; the Hi-fi with teh 2-3/4" inlet and the normal with the 4" inlet like Scott has

all info can be found on turbonetics website: http://www.turbocharged.com

SC300T

Mine is a larger P trim wheel with .58 A/R. A T60-1 HiFi is a bit smaller.

If I had to do it again, for Stage 1.5 I'd stick with the P trim 60-1, but go a step larger on the exhaust A/R.

awj

That is a great link Bean.
I'm still at a loss for a/r significance. I will look for the book mentioned in the other thread.

I appreciate your experience SC300T as well as others - thanks for sharing. Would the next step be the .62 a/r?

SC300T

On A/Rs....

Think about a fan within a cylinder. That's essentially what an exhuast turbine is like.

The A/R is the difference between the size of the fan to the size of the cylinder.

If you have a small difference (small A/R) the fan is close to the size of the cylinder. This means that a most of the exhaust gas has to travel through the fan to get to the other side. This yields quick boost response as the exhaust has no other choice but to go through the blades putting pressure on the wheel.

This all sounds great, but what happens when there is an overload of exhaust volume (like at higher boost, very high rpm???). You end up building exhaust pressure (bad) because the turbine can only move so much air. The air has no other place to go.

If you have a larger A/R, the cylinder will be bigger, the air has more room to move AROUND the blades, instead of having to pass through them. You don't build boost as fast because of the bypass, but you also don't build back pressure and limit flow at higher boost and rpm levels.

Its a trade off.

A .58 exhaust A/R spools very quickly on a T60-1. Only you can decide if you want more, quicker boost down low, or a bigger push at the top.

awj

How about a link - I may be making a purchase this week.

Lex: Is there a website for PF? I've been there but never bookmarked it - I can search. And the other deal you mentioned w/ FMIC and t60-1 and the goodies from where?

I've also been checking out the AEM deal - does anyone have this on their SC yet?

awj

Been doing a little research and found turbine housings that are axially divided - two 2 3/4" ports. With a larger a/r ratio, this seems to me like the ideal way to go as this design seems to get air across the entire section of the turbine while still allowing a path of least resistance it High boost situations. Any opinions?

SC300T

Sounds, good---some of the HKS kits use divided housings... Its not night and day difference on top end, though. Its all about compressor wheels sizes and housing sizes.

Mine is not divided, but I can see merit, just don't know how much of a benefit, though. Good luck. For stage 1-2, I'd worry more about stuff around the turbo, though- like electronics, intercoolers, etc. If I'd do it again, I'd a FMIC instead of the sidemount.

benzy230

sorry it has taken me so long to reply...i have been really busy working on my car...here is TBKO's site : http://www.tbko.com ..they are working on the shipable SC300 turbo kit....ask for jeff when you call...he is really cool.

It has been about 4 weeks since i last spoke with him...so i really do not know how all is going.

I know that there IS300 stage 1 kit is out pushing 320+ rwhp for $6500...and the stage 2 should be complete here pretty soon.

Remember...they kit for the SC will probably be a little less as you do not have as much to worry with..