ronricorum

hmmm... i've been lookin for info about this aswell. and as of right now i leaning towards gte only because i have a good deal on one. i was planning on na-t, but 5800k for a boost logic kit alone is kind of pricey (even tho i was just about to get it anyway and build it from there). i have a question and any help would be greatly appreciated.

i am possibly getting a JDM Supra 2jz-gtte w/ r154 swap with uncut harness, ecu, and maybe other items.

i've never done a swap by myself, i have helped out with honda b series swaps, but thats as far as it goes. so i am not that well experienced in swaps. i want it to be done professionally tho, as i want it done right (i know theres ppl here in cl that can do it right on their own, but again my knowledge is limited LOL) =D

back to the question, what other components would i need for this swap?

also would getting a front clip make it any easier?

i have a 93 sc300 5spd and i will get back on the year of the engine swap if that matters.

again, thank you for any help.

EDIT: also, if i have read correctly, the r154 tranny that would be best would be from a soarer or chaser, and that the r154 from the supra(mkiii) would need modifications. correct?

and if that is correct, will a 2jz-gtte jdm engine match up with a soarer/chaser r154? just need to be definite. i've read tho that those are rare and mkiii are more common.

ooooor LOL. will getting a 2jzgtte w/getrag 6spd trans for about 5500 be better and less of a headache than trying to match and rig an r154?

also here's the items included:

complete 5spd(unless noted) tranny set-up clutch, flywheel, and all bolts. and possibly driveshaft yolk in some cases
complete engine w/intake and exhaust manifolds, turbos and all sensors.
complete uncut wiring harness
ignitor chip
mafs
ecu

SORRY FOR THE WALL-O'-TEXT!!!

Smokeshow

EDIT: also, if i have read correctly, the r154 tranny that would be best would be from a soarer or chaser, and that the r154 from the supra(mkiii) would need modifications. correct?

and if that is correct, will a 2jz-gtte jdm engine match up with a soarer/chaser r154? just need to be definite. i've read tho that those are rare and mkiii are more common.

ooooor LOL. will getting a 2jzgtte w/getrag 6spd trans for about 5500 be better and less of a headache than trying to match and rig an r154?

also here's the items included:

complete 5spd(unless noted) tranny set-up clutch, flywheel, and all bolts. and possibly driveshaft yolk in some cases
complete engine w/intake and exhaust manifolds, turbos and all sensors.
complete uncut wiring harness
ignitor chip
mafs


I believe that if you get a R154 and use it with the 2j you will need to get a 1j
bell housing but you won't have to modify your tranny tunnel or anything since a JDM Soarer came with a 1j and an R154 stock. A word of caution: once you get past a certain HP point the R154 can't take the abuse like a V160 can. If you are looking to make big numbers then you would want to get a V160 so you would save money in the long run as opposed to having to buy multiple trannies. Another idea I would propose it that maybe you look into getting a JDM Soarer front clip with a 1j and R154 so that you can do the swap and get some experiance before you take the big leap for the 2j. THe 1j is not as good as the 2j but for the money and completeness of the swap they are hard to beat. Also be careful when buying engines and make sure the engine you are buying has an oil pan that is compatible with the SC300 as the chaser oil pan is different than what you need. (correct me if I am wrong guys but it think this is correct?) Either way will be a sweet ride!

ronricorum

thanks, and yes, i have again..sigh... changed my mind LOL!

i am now waiting on a reply on a 1jz-gtte w/ r154 tranny for 2700(i believe). with all the items included in the list. i asked him if it is all from a soarer, so it should be direct bolt on correct? plus i will send the harness to dr. tweak? and since its so much less than the 2jz i will have time to build it up, both tranny and engine to atleast stock form, and have enough money to professionally swap it.

i just wanna do this slow and right. =D

again thanks for your input smokeshow!

p.s. the seller also was going to include the correct oil pans. =]

Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

Thanks guys, this info was nice for me to read too.
I'm still trying to find myself a GTE. I've got 2 possibilities.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Most recent GE I tuned:

BL Headgasket.
ARP hardware.
T3/T4 60 trim.
small sidemount I/C
Bone stock exhaust
Meth setup
AEM

22 pds made over 400 to the wheels, through a bone stock exhaust, and a little bitty sidemount. Eats twinned GTEs all day long and he drives it work, picks his kids up, and makes trips in it.

Unless you have a GTE sitting there, right in front of you in great shape, for an awesome price, get a GE. 1jz is a complete waste cost to power wise IMO unless you just have a personal preference in which some people do.

Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

I dont plan on twins. I'm doing a single hopping to get 5-600 whp

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

What about a 1.3mm head gasket? And is it the thicker the gasket the lower the compression? or how exactly does that work? Thanks.

Ashtray-

lemmiewink

There are various views to this. There are some that say that this is the "wrong" way to go about lowering the compression. The right way would be to use low compression pistons in combination with the right headgasket.

When people talk about lowering the compression, they are talking about lowering something called the compression ratio.

Think about it.

There is a certain amount of space between the top of the cylinder and the top of the piston when the piston is at its lowest point (aka bottom dead center, aka BDC).

There is also a certain amount of space between the top of the cylinder and the top of the piston when the piston is at its highest point of travel (aka Top Dead Center, aka TDC).

It is the ratio between the two measurement of spaces that get you your "compression ratio"

So an engine that has a 10:1 ratio would mean that it would take 10 times the amount of space between the top of the cylinder and the top of the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) to equal to the amount of space there is between the top of the cylinder and the top of the piston at Bottom Dead Center (BDC)


The thicker headgasket basically bridges the space between the cylinder head and the block. So, the thicker the gasket, the farther away the cylinder head, and therefore the top of the cylinder combustion chamber, from the block the more space is created between the piston and the cylinder head at both bottom and top dead center resulting in a lower compression ratio.

So yes, the thicker the gasket the lower the compression ratio.

Stock 2jzgte compression ratio is 8.5:1

This means that it takes 8.5 times the space at TDC to equal the amount of space at BDC.

There is a mathematical formula to calculate compression, but this is basically what the ratio "means"

At least I think it is.

Heres a picture to see the difference between a high compression diesel and a lower compression engine.


The gasket basically makes the chamber "bigger"

I hope I explained it well enough and someone chime in if I said something wrong.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Wow that really explained it alot. So im assuming that a piston job would cost more and that a head gasket job is a cheaper solution yet to this day extremely effective. Thanks man you really enlightened me on the whole ratio scene. I think im gonna go hunt for some head gaskets.

edit: what is a reasonable safe compression for a GE going na-t looking to boost around 10-17?? On clubna-t a 1.3mm HG is mentioned for optimal street performance and safe to 17psi. whats your opinion? Thanks again.

ronricorum

wow, that was very informative... i need the same info, as now i am goin na-t. lol i need to make up my mind.

EDTUN3R

There is alot of good info on here. Im gonna using the GTE route

TeamLSi

what brand and type gasket is the best for 2jzgte? also what brand material etc head bolt or stud kit is best?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

All the GE engine really needs to make good boost is the Stock OEM TT headgasket and arp headstuds never hurt either.

you can lower the compression both ways on the Ge, GTE dished pistons and/or GTE headgasket.
The headgasket will lower the compression more than the pistons, and since changing out the pistons is significantly harder than changing out the headgasket, the pistons are not done as often.
If you really think about it the GTE has both of these, so a TT headgasket on a Ge isn't "the wrong way to go about it" necessarily, its just only going half way, the more important half.

Some of us here like the added compression bump from the ge pistons and the TT headgasket because the compression is slightly higher than a gte = more power + less lag, but still safe for boost.

Back in the day we needed ridiculously low compression ratios cause the tuning was horrible, but these days with good gas and tuning you don't have to go so low. There are some members who are experimenting with the TT pistons and the GE headgasket, however this setup only slightly lowers the compression from a stock GE, which means precise engine management is required, however the turbo response and power at low boost may make you think twice about building a dyno queen vs. a street monster.