ALLWiTE2JZ

Who the **** are you? I don't think I was talking to you buddy. kthnx bye.

And btw, I do all my work myself, but its kind of hard to do work on a car when someone is very blunt or vague with what they say. Thats like an mechanic saying oh you have an oil leak and you say how do I fix it and he says fix the leak. How is that helpful? That is what my situation is like here. But thanks guys for the decent bit of help I'll see if this helps when I take a look at everything.

I just don't understand why people are on forums on the internet if all they are is negative and ignorant to honest people that need help with a specific car problem, such as myself. But I guess some people are just naturally angry people and have nothing else to do with their spare time but to try and bring other people down because some people don't know as much about a particular subject as the other person.

Whatever reason it may be why it seems like EVERY ******** in the world is on a car forum, I'm not going to be a ****ing loser and sit here and talk down to people. I actually have better things to do with my time on this Earth.

Garage7RP

iTrader: (1)

I do not see the vagueness in most of the responses when they say "check the groundings..."

So, since you do your own homework, you already know to start from the negative battery terminal and trace all the wire that are connected to those wires. Then check the chassis grounds/engine grounds and correct and repair as needed if you see any corrosions or loose connections.

Do the same thing on the positive battery terminal and wires.

This should keep you busy

masagsxr

Hi Rooticon:.... You know for someone that does all the work yourself, I would imagine a simple reply of just about everyone saying check the ground I would think you know first hand where to look. Mechanic will not tell you every single detail on what or how to fix things or else they will not make any money. Agree? If a mechanic says there is a leak, I think the least he can do is say something like, "there is a leak in the valve cover". Are you serious about asking where or how to fix it? C'mon now. The mechanic already did you a favor by telling you what your problem is. The least you can probably do is give the guy a few bucks. Most diagnose is a flat $45 - $99 charge.

Here are a few samples of ground kits
http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/i...tEngineBay.jpg
http://media.photobucket.com/image/g...round_mod1.jpg

Here, even on a supra... Highlighted in red where grounding points are. These are aftermarkets. Stock will not be a lot of grounding points like that.


Again, there should be a 8 or 10 gauge wire from the negative terminal of the battery. Follow that wire and you will see that it is bolted in the chassis on certain points throughout the whole car even on the head and/or engine block.

ALLWiTE2JZ

Okay, THANK YOU guys for explaining that a little bit for me. NOW, I can take a better look at my car since I have a better understanding. That's all you guys had to say, I wasn't asking you for an arm and a leg or to come here in person and do this for me. Those were the kinds of answers I was looking for.

ALLWiTE2JZ

Now my question to you guys is, IF I check ALL of these wires/grounds/etc and there is NOTHING wrong even after cleaning them or whatnot, THEN what do I do?

masagsxr

Sometimes even if the points look good and not corroded does not mean the wire(s) is bad. Who knows why? Maybe just old age and the wires need to be replaced. However, replacing the wire does not mean it will solve your problem tho. Maybe it is just good to let the professionals handle it. Sometimes its just not worth pulling your hair out figuring out whats wrong. I believe in Donald Trump's motto "Time is $$$" The sooner you get it fix, the sooner the car will be a convenient for you....

If you have all the time, the next thing I would do is test the relays. You said it is flickering right? I would check the relay of the foglight/headlight or whatever it is and go from there.

93twintrbo

iTrader: (1)

They usually test the charging system with a electronic hand held tester. Although they are decent they will not put the proper load on the system to fully test the alternator. You need to have a shop do a proper load test to see how many amps your alternator is putting out at idle and high rev's under load. You will be suprised to see what those hand held testers miss. Although they are great for picking up a bad diode pattern.

I agree with what everyone says about checking grounds. All grounds should be checked for tightness and also clean contact.

Lawrence

ALLWiTE2JZ

Okay guys I just checked all of my grounds and they all seem fine. All of them are tight and none of them are dirty looking at all. I took off the positive and negative terminals off the battery and cleaned them individually by pouring Coca-Cola on both terminals and on the battery posts. Then I took a scrub brush and scrubbed them all very clean so they are now nice and shiny. Then I hooked the battery back up the way it was and made sure everything was tightened and took my car for a spin. Turns out that the flickering/dimming stuff has stopped, even though the battery posts and terminals weren't even really THAT dirty with battery acid or gunky stuff. It was a VERY little amount and I don't see how it made my car do what it was doing before. It doesn't do it anymore, although I still would like to upgrade my battery. Do you guys think I should upgrade the battery because I do have a lot of stuff running like two 55w HID kits, sound system, dvd player, etc, etc. The battery I have now is an Everstart with 640 cranking amps and 550 cold cranking amps. Should I upgrade to an Optima YellowTop to get the most power available for everything I have running?

ALLWiTE2JZ

bump!!!!!!!