99SC42

iTrader: (44)

He said it's eating oil, I woud not replace the HG on an engine that's burning oil and slap a Turbo on it, if you tighten the top end you must do the same to the bottom end.

2JZGTE with USDM twins, 550cc,USDM cams, FMIC , SAFC you will reach your power goal.
2JZGE clean low miles with a Nice turbo kit you will be there, instead of rebuilding your existing block which will cost you from 1k /3k depending on what needs to be replace.
1JZGTE is another options but at the end you will have to rip everything off and go Single thats another $1700 on good quality parts and brand name.

You just said 400rwhp will be enough because you are not making that kind of power right , but once you get to 400 you will be looking for 600 or 750 trust me, i was just like you when i started.
I told myself 300rwhp and im done, no sir it didn't happen like that.
I was on the highway and got my feelings hurt one time and it all started from that point my power level just went from 300rwhp to 500rwhp, which i will be putting down.
So i think Na-T will be the best bet if you don't cheap out on the EMS.
GL but search before you start spending your money.....

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

no, you didnt read all of my post...I said MAINTENANCE FIRST!..then the HG and boost..I never said just change the hg and go.

regardless if he decides to go with a swap or not, he isnt going to know the history of the engine, and leakdown and compression tests dont always tell the entire story that a majority of these importers sell.

And I dont know where you get your engines rebuilt at, but 1k-3k is a bit ridiculous..order the parts and do the rebuild yourself, take the block to a machine shop and have it cleaned and what-not, and $500-$1k tops you will have a fresh engine.

if you order a GTE swap, more than likely your going to have JDM turbos, which will entail spending more on either going single turbo, or trying to find a decent set of USDM turbos, and good luck with that.

Rebuild your factory 2J, fix the oil leak, install a 1.3mm Cometic HG, order the necessary parts to turbo charge and save yourself from ordering an engine that your going to have to find parts for anyway..if you think about it, whats the point of ordering a turbo engine, if you have to replace the turbo's anyway??

NA-T in this case, and in most cases for mid HP numbers is IMO the most sensible route. Yes you still have to deal with the MAF, yes you still have the TB over the top of the engine, yes you still have a distributor, but you will have a new HG, timing belt if you install one which I would recommend, and if you rebuild the engine you will know the history of it, have lower mileage than most swaps, and make a good amount of power on a reliable platform and if done properly, 400whp could be achieved as a low boost goal, with 500+ at high boost with the same engine.

enawazh

iTrader: (1)

^^^^^LISTEN TO THIS GUY ^^^^^

Everything he says is the most COST EFFECTIVE WAY. You can get all the JDM engines you want but you will never know its history, EVER.

A rebuild shouldn't cost more than $800 Including machine work. (If you assemble it yourself) Buy everything you need and get a single turbo off the bat.

Wanna eliminate the distributor , Look into Megasquirt. You dont have to get Megasquirt 2 just get megasquirt 1. It has a lower resolution for fuel mapping but will easily get you to 400rwhp. It only costs $200 for a Brand new standalone EMS. Use the 7MGTE CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and coil pack for spark and boost away.

A Healthy stock 2J NA block is easily capable of running at over 500rwhp reliably all day. So what exactly are you paying 1800 for a JDM engine for? ....only o rip out the twin turbos and spend more money on going single. You have a HEAD START.

There are literally hundreds of way to get 400rwhp. Its up to you and how much work you are willing to do to make this project cost effective.

wooziewest

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys very much for your posts. You have been very informative.

Im really not sure about what is causing the oil-eating problem, because the car doesn't smoke at all.

Im definitely going the na-t route now; I just gotta make that excel sheet and piece everything together.

Ive done a rebuild before but ive never done anything with turbos, so this should be a fun, interesting journey!

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

when doing the basic rebuild, keep the turbo part out of mind, but to an extent..meaning keep the HG in mind (even the OEM TT supra HG will do to keep costs down) and dont blow $250+ on a Greedy timing belt, the Gates racing belt is the same thing and IIRC its like $70shipped on fleabay.

as for the oil eating, ..hard to give any suggestions unless I can stick my head under your hood.

when it comes to boost related parts, keep your turbo, wastegate and bov name brand if possible..it will cost a bit more, but vital parts like that I wouldnt skimp out on..the intercooler (if you go with a fmic) the XS Power fmic and pipe kit should be more than sufficient and are easy to obtain for a fair price. Find an safc-2 used, they are a dime-a-dozen..t-bolt clamps are a must for anything higher than 10psi, and a wideband o2 sensor is an absolute must.

good luck, keep us all posted, and if you have any questions feel free to pm me.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You said maintenance , but you didn't say anything about the block being rebuild.
I am not saying that you are giving him some wrong info, you just missed the rebuilding process that's all my friend we Kool.


Who will rebuild a block for $800 enless you work for the machine shop!!!
And what kind of rebuild they do for $800?
Please let's not start on his thread!!