wooziewest

iTrader: (1)

My Goal is to obtain around 400 at the crank (without the use of nitrous)

And to do so in the most cost effective way.


From what I have researched, I am thinking 1jz swap with some basic mods would be the best way?

All ideas are welcome. Thanks.

EDIT: I have an sc300 5 speed with 165,000. for reference

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

1J is an option, but why not use the already proven base of the 2JZ that is in the car now? na-t kit with a 1.3mm Cometic HG, larger injectors and your done for the most part, of course there are some smaller details to attend to but no need to swap engines for 400hp.

thats just my .02..

Guest

+1!!^ doing the same thing here.

That-Guy

iTrader: (1)

i'm na-t with a full boost logic kit running a t67dbb.... with a justin nenni tune i'm safely making just a hair under 400rwhp on stock compression at really low boost levels... stock compression makes driving a lot more fun

wooziewest

iTrader: (1)

What? Your making 400 wheel at low boost! Damn.

Here's the thing, Cost efficiency is the key. My stock engine has 165,000 mi and eats oil.

How much more is going na-t to achieve that horsepower compared to going 1jz?

I would assume it would be pretty expensive considering turbo kit + ecu + possible engine rebuild.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

maintenance is key no matter what engine your using, your stock 2J or a 1J swap. You can piece together a kit and spend less than an engine swap would cost and have more HP at the same boost levels. You dont need an ecu, you can reach 400hp with an safc-2 or EMU, or worst case scenario you go with a Haltech standalone system, 1.3mm cometic HG, boost to 15psi and your done.

You already have an engine, that with a little tweak on the compression/fuel, will easily make 500+hp with a turbo. Use it and save yourself the hassle of swapping engines, sending the harness out to be made to work, going single turbo, plus everything else.

TLDriver

iTrader: (4)

Well on that note... it's hard to suggest anything. Because we don't know your budget and we don't know if you can go without a car a for a bit. I mean too many factors... If you have the w58 you might need to get that inspected too and if you were to go to r154 is an extra cost and so on... tuning might be something you are not factoring in. I would need more info to give you solid suggestion.

wooziewest

iTrader: (1)

My budget is somewhat on the lower end, hence the desire to find the most cost efficient path. I do have the w58. I am just concerned that an engine with such high miles ( And I don't know how the car was taken care of before me) can withstand such power.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

with that being said, do you know the history of the 1j or 2j swap you would be ordering?? or how it was taken care of before it was pulled from whatever car for what ever reason?...my guess would be NO.

put money into the 2JZ you already have..do the needed maintenance, piece together a nice kit and you will learn more about the engine you have doing that, and you can still save some money vs. doing a swap and still enjoy the boost

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

I would suggest turbodremz's method. It will save you money as he stated. The only thing i hate about the ge is the tb over the valve cover.

Opaque

There will be a lot of things going on with your car with 400rwhp that you never felt before for example you won't have any traction with the stock diff. I have experienced and seen many ge-t, 1jz, gte just run terrible times because they can't get any traction at all do to the diff being absolutely terrible with that power.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

I hate the tb over the top as well, but an issue that is easy to take care of later on down the road


even at 9psi ( on stock compression I would guess high 290-low 300whp?) there is still a traction problem..I have been breaking traction in first and second gear with my stock auto trans..but again another issue that can be solved later on.

GS FONZy

iTrader: (6)

I would not boost until atleast an overhaul. 2J's are horses, but eating up oil is never a good sign.

1sxyrxy

BPU aristo swap, 370hp to the wheels.

enawazh

iTrader: (1)

Why spend money on a USED JDM Engine when your car already has a 2J in it. Why pay so much money only to findout your JDM TWINS are toast, or your 1J ECU has bad Capacitors???? If anything rip the 2J out,rebuild it and scrape together a turbo kit. 1J is a step back if you ask me and isn't exactly road legal. Look into Holset turbos they are very affordable and reliable and flow very well.

Turbo Holset HX35 off a Cummins truck (Used $200) T3 Flange
The newer Holset he351Cw comes T4 flanged with 4" V-band exhaust.
Exhaust Manifold ($120 Ebay) T4 flange
Custom Downpipe ( around $200)
Intercooler & piping (Around $350)
Wastegate ($320 Genuine Tial)
SAFC ( $200)
MHG ( $140)
Swap in 440cc Injectors with resistor pack from a 7MGTE (around $60)
BOV ($150)

This doesn't include Machine Machine shop charges and Piston rings and bearings. But you get the idea. With this list you will easily hit the 400HP mark. Most of these parts can be obtained on this site in good used condition for much cheaper than what I listed.
I recommend making an Excel sheet.

Of course, It goes without saying that the more labor you do the cheaper this will be.

Good luck