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Electrical Gurus Chime in Please

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Old 01-12-10, 08:32 AM
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laxdude362
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Default Electrical Gurus Chime in Please

1st Issue:
Hey guys I have been searching but can't find anything to help, this is more of a specific question I guess. I had my starter and battery replaced. My mechanic discovered that the 10A fuse located in the engine bay labeled DOME is drawing .5 amp from the battery. He said this is way too much and says if I leave the car sitting for 3-4 days or more it will drain the battery down. So I have just been pulling the fuse when I turn it off for long periods. This fuse controls dome lights, vanity mirrors, rearview mirror, door lock/unlock button, steering wheel controls, door ajar light, and I believe that's all. What could be causing it to draw so much power?

2nd Issue:
When I have my headights on the passenger low beam lights up correctly but the driver side low beam is very dim. When the low beams are on the high beams emit a small amount of light from the housing, it is very strange and never done this before. When I actually do flip the high beams on only the passenger side high beam lights up, the driver side does not. BUT when they are on the passenger low beam stays on instead of shutting off as it should.
What the deuce is going on here?

Any input is greatly appreciated.
Old 01-12-10, 02:12 PM
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SH_JZZ30
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Have you relocated your fender harness?
Old 01-15-10, 05:24 PM
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laxdude362
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Nope. I just discovered when I switch from high beams to low beams the driver headlight gradually lights up but not fully. While when I switch back from high to low the passenger immediately comes on fully lit. Also my fog lights take an extra second or two longer to come on than normal when I do the switch from high to low.
Old 01-16-10, 08:28 AM
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MAJones
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Your current draw with engine off key off should be around 5 milli amps(.05amps). Do you have a decent multimeter and know how to measure current draw. I would suggest measuring current draw and unplugging each of those accessories starting with the easiest ones to unhook(if there is such a thing) until the current draw drops to normal. If everthing is unhooked and the draw is still there you have a short from a hot wire to ground wire or chassis ground.
If you have done any work in any of those areas give those wires a good visual inspection of the wires damaged and shorted to the frame.

If you diagnose the circuit one section at a time while monitoring changes in current it will make more sense and easier to find the problem.
Good luck
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