*Turbo Set Up for 400-450hp?*
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I did my search and i am very confused about a set up. I live in Tulsa, OK and I dont really want to spend 7.5Ks for toyos even though i have a friend with a toyo IS300 and its so great. so wat would i exactly need to be able to get my 400hp goal out of the stock 2jzge? wat is ur personal opinion? thanx guys this would help me alot....
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George Spears ... "We experimented with various thicknesses of plate for the flame cut flanges, and found that 3/8" is a happy compromise. 1/4" has a tendency to warp during fabrication and welding, whereas 3/8 inch will not. We discovered that .083" wall (14gage) tubing is adequate. Anything thicker is better."
"Our mustang II kit had its turbine discharge approximately 3/4 " away from a 14gage metal heat sheild. Electrical wiring is immediately behind this sheild and is touching in some cases.
........ thermocouples against the heat sheild measure about 200F. Based on experience, we can say 14 gage steel placed one inch away from any hot metal parts with at least one inch of air clearance would give adequate protection from heat. Sheilds should be placed near any critical parts like electrical harness, master cylinders, fuel lines, etc."
"For exhaust system material, Kinsler prefers type 321 stainless or at least 316 stainless. On a high output turbo engine, either will last,even at maximum operating temps; or forever on a street engine."
Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes
The exhaust manifold is the main concern with the F-Max kit, from what I understand. It would be good to know what the specs are on both manifolds and go from there. Get all of the answers to the critical questions before buying any kit. Interaction at that point will probably indicate who to buy from. There are a whole lot of critical questions and details to be sure about when doing this. Have those questions ready before you buy. I haven't bought yet and am looking at options.
Anyone know the thickness of the exhaust manifold flange and runner walls on the F-max and/or Toyomoto and/or the materials they are made of?
"Our mustang II kit had its turbine discharge approximately 3/4 " away from a 14gage metal heat sheild. Electrical wiring is immediately behind this sheild and is touching in some cases.
........ thermocouples against the heat sheild measure about 200F. Based on experience, we can say 14 gage steel placed one inch away from any hot metal parts with at least one inch of air clearance would give adequate protection from heat. Sheilds should be placed near any critical parts like electrical harness, master cylinders, fuel lines, etc."
"For exhaust system material, Kinsler prefers type 321 stainless or at least 316 stainless. On a high output turbo engine, either will last,even at maximum operating temps; or forever on a street engine."
Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes
The exhaust manifold is the main concern with the F-Max kit, from what I understand. It would be good to know what the specs are on both manifolds and go from there. Get all of the answers to the critical questions before buying any kit. Interaction at that point will probably indicate who to buy from. There are a whole lot of critical questions and details to be sure about when doing this. Have those questions ready before you buy. I haven't bought yet and am looking at options.
Anyone know the thickness of the exhaust manifold flange and runner walls on the F-max and/or Toyomoto and/or the materials they are made of?
Last edited by awj; 05-19-02 at 01:03 PM.
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no one has any info on the PF header......no reliability...no long term cars.......only thing i have seen it on is a race car...if your comfortable buying that.....then good luck....toyomoto is proven for power....reliability....and satisfaction.........its worth the money you spend....and a na supra with a toyomoto kit just went 9.98@137 in the 1/4 mile and dynoed 746rwhp through an auto tranny...not too shabby...Jeff
#7
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Good point Jeff, that's all you would really need in a manifold (Toyomoto), but in all fairness, if PF's manifold can withstand the rigors of repeated passes all the way down to 8.10 (recent best time), I suspect it won't be a problem, and there are major design differences and potential benefits, but Toyomoto has turboed hundreds of street cars with their manifold, and there's no better testimonial than that. Do it right the first time, I personally haaaate to have to repeat myself or my work.
- Jon
P.S. - Just for your info, you can get the PF stainless steel equal-length tubular header w/ Indy-style merge collector and dp for around $1600, if you call them ask for Mark or Frankie, but you're better off with Toyomoto if you want a rock-solid hi-quality kit with a great reputation and support from a true turbo guru, PF can be shady at times, and in the end it will probably cost them my business, despite the fact that I know them.
- Jon
P.S. - Just for your info, you can get the PF stainless steel equal-length tubular header w/ Indy-style merge collector and dp for around $1600, if you call them ask for Mark or Frankie, but you're better off with Toyomoto if you want a rock-solid hi-quality kit with a great reputation and support from a true turbo guru, PF can be shady at times, and in the end it will probably cost them my business, despite the fact that I know them.
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I spoke with Turbo Technics, one of the UK's leading developers in super & turbo charging, even with a short runner type of manifold they would make up a working prototype in mild steel, once they had a proven design this is converted to a CAD drawing, redesigned to cater for various thermals and forces which will be applied and then sent off to be sand cast.
Doing it this way is more costly but they want to ensure longevity of the final fittment, they will not trust a welded manifold to last for the duration. The weight of turbo's, downpipes and some of the exhaust is hanging directly from the manifold, the increased torque being applied from the turbo upgrade also creates more engine rotation, this combination is what causes even the best welded manifolds to develop stress fractures at the weld joints.
Doing it this way is more costly but they want to ensure longevity of the final fittment, they will not trust a welded manifold to last for the duration. The weight of turbo's, downpipes and some of the exhaust is hanging directly from the manifold, the increased torque being applied from the turbo upgrade also creates more engine rotation, this combination is what causes even the best welded manifolds to develop stress fractures at the weld joints.
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