ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Having an issue with the car not catching…it cranks and cranks but will not turn over. I have had one or two pops out of the open DP but nothing significant. Now I am receiving no pops. Here is the testing and checking I did last night with a buddy of mine. We bounced ideas back and forth and verified each other’s work to make sure and we are stumped at this point.

Setup:
JDM Aristo engine
1995 Supra TT ECU with harness
Harness modified to SC300 body plugs and some JDM connectors
USDM 550cc injectors and rail
USDM Resistor box for injectors
Gated shifter rewired
Boost controller, turbo timer, and power meter installed
Supra TT igniter
Electric fans (not connected yet – running no fans for startup)
Normal tune-up on Aristo – water pump, seals, thermostat, plugs, etc.
Walbro fuel pump with 12v bypass - currently direct line to battery for startup


Fuel :
Fuel injectors: verified resistance on the injector and voltage to the connector
Resistor box – verified the resistance per the FSM and was a perfect 6ohm each pin
Verified fuel was being delivered to the cylinders via fuel on spark plugs and a flooding issue on #1 ( more on that in a sec)

Spark/Fire:
Igniter – RyanV used my igniter so I know it is good
Coil packs – tested cold resistance and was good on all
Verified wiring/routing of coil packs from igniter – found one coil pack swapped. #1 was backwards and this was corrected – caused cylinder #1 to flood but was vacuumed out
Verified wiring order/routing from ECU to igniter
Visually verified spark by grounding out each coil pack with spark plugs and seeing spark

Air:
Air is constant
Tried to increase air at the end by holding throttle open

Timing:
Visually inspected timing.
Crank at zero – cams “dot” pointing straight up to the timing bumps on the backplate
Turn crank one 360 degree turn and dots are gone
Turn crank another 360 and set at zero and the dots are pointing up again
(I know that was Dr Seuss level but that is where I am at now J )

Items not connected: (proving all data relevant or not)
Coolant temp sensor
2 vacuum ports on the intake
1 vacuum port on the VSV connected to the pressure tank
O2 sensor
Bottom portion of instrument panel (only have gauges plugged in)
VSS1 on tranny – clip is broken on the tranny portion
No air filter – running open MAF

Theories/Stretches:
Injectors are not firing in the correct order – how would I verify this
Coolant sensor – just thought about this. Remember reading about someone having an issue with their car not starting but did not know if this was a safety feature
Timing is off – visually it is on but maybe the exhaust cam is open when it should be closed

mptjimmy

iTrader: (2)

if you spray carb cleaner into the intake will it run?? my friend and i just did a 2jzgte on a cressida, and his motor had 4 dead injectors, verify power on both wires for the injectors, then on the ECU side check for a ground as your cranking for the ecu - trigger , to verify injector sequence i would trace the ecu to the injectors, , how did you extend the harness?

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

the issue is not fuel. I have tested the injectors from the ECU to the resistor pack to the connectors. The spark plugs have fuel. All signals are there.

what I meant by right firing order was if there was somehow they could not fire correctly but the lines were trced to the correct ECU pin from resistor and then to the correct injector connector.

I have fuel, spark, and seems to be timed properly...

topdog849

iTrader: (1)

if your coolant temp sensor is disconnected then your car wont know if its cold or hot so wont know what fuel mixture to give. if you have a distributor put a timing light to it and verify your getting spark at the right time. also with any vacuum hoses disconnected the engine will breath more unmetered air not sensed by the maf and run leaner and would idle higher if running.

mptjimmy

iTrader: (2)

last time i pulled a injector rail, and injecotrs out, and checked for spray they all fired at the same time but it was a sr, timing might be 180deg out?? crank at zereo and which way are the cam lobes facing? idealy tdc the cam lobes would be at like 10 and 2 ish....

SuprCilver

Imobilizer?

TURBO819

iTrader: (5)

I was having the same problem. Like you my Coolant Temperature Sensor was unplugged. It would crank but not run. Like topdog849 POSTED. That might be your problem. When you POST No air filter – running open MAF What do you mean??? The other problem I ran into after I got it started was with the MAF. I had the MAF installed in a 4" intake pipe. It would start but not hold idle (shut off after one compression cycle) until I installed the MAF in the OEM air box. The MAF is caliberated to the diameter of the OEM pipe.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

what I am meaning is that I have the MAF connected to a 3" pipe (same size as stock) and clamped onto that pipe. I currently do not have a filter clamped onto the MAF. This should not affect anything just giving all info I can at this point.

everything keeps pointing to the coolant sensor.

TURBO819

iTrader: (5)

Plug it in you will be happy. I was

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

No dice. It did not start. I am getting a little perplexed. I have signal to all injectors, coils, ingniter, resistor box. It is timed properly. I dunno.

I checked the resistance on both the crank sensor to the block and the connector to the ecu. They both were perfect.

I am going to pull the sensor today to get a look at the wheel. See if there is anything wrong with the timing gear.

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

did you replace a timing belt at one point? It could be that one of the teeth is off on the cam gears, check to make sure all your timing points line up properly

Dew23

iTrader: (1)

Check the cam sensor that could be your problem.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Even if the Timing is off by a Tooth it should start, Maybe resinstall the JDM440cc and see what happen.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Timing:
Visually inspected timing.
Crank at zero – cams “dot” pointing straight up to the timing bumps on the backplate - which are both the 12 Oclock position.
Turn crank one 360 degree turn and dots are gone
Turn crank another 360 and set at zero and the dots are pointing up again
(I know that was Dr Seuss level but that is where I am at now J )


other than scope how to I see if they are sending a signal

I have the resistor pack installed so it is not an easy swap. Also fuel is not the issue. I am getting fuel.

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

Check your crank sensor on the bottom, front, of the exhaust side of the engine. It's a common problem, people forget to plug it in.