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Old 02-08-10, 11:00 PM
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SC51
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Default vvti-2jzge-T questions

Ok so i ordered all parts necessary for a nice na-t setup on my 99.I have done lots of research and searching. Goal is to get it done in a day so I wanna get the snags outta the way. couple question.

1. The union bolt for turbo feed has a plug on the end of it how do I get around that?

2. Also if I'm running an O2 similator do they have to be installed in the exhaust or could I tie it up somewhere?


3. What do normal wide band readings range from?


4. Whats the stock fuel pressure on sc3s?


5. Where is the 3rd source for boost controller tap?BOV, WG, ...



Any help I would greatly appreciate. And ill post pics when all arrives.



Josh
Old 02-09-10, 09:22 AM
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Ali SC3
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Originally Posted by SC51
Ok so i ordered all parts necessary for a nice na-t setup on my 99.I have done lots of research and searching. Goal is to get it done in a day so I wanna get the snags outta the way. couple question.

1. The union bolt for turbo feed has a plug on the end of it how do I get around that?

2. Also if I'm running an O2 similator do they have to be installed in the exhaust or could I tie it up somewhere?

3. What do normal wide band readings range from?


4. Whats the stock fuel pressure on sc3s?


5. Where is the 3rd source for boost controller tap?BOV, WG, ...



Any help I would greatly appreciate. And ill post pics when all arrives.



Josh
1. You use a "T" fitting
2. depends on the simulator, you should probably place something in the small hole in your exhaust though.
3. wide-band is 0-5v. the range on most units are from like 10AFR - 18AFR

Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-09-10 at 09:29 AM.
Old 02-09-10, 09:49 AM
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turbodremz
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Originally Posted by SC51
Ok so i ordered all parts necessary for a nice na-t setup on my 99.I have done lots of research and searching. Goal is to get it done in a day so I wanna get the snags outta the way. couple question.

1. The union bolt for turbo feed has a plug on the end of it how do I get around that?

2. Also if I'm running an O2 similator do they have to be installed in the exhaust or could I tie it up somewhere?


3. What do normal wide band readings range from?


4. Whats the stock fuel pressure on sc3s?


5. Where is the 3rd source for boost controller tap?BOV, WG, ...



Any help I would greatly appreciate. And ill post pics when all arrives.



Josh


1. "T" fitting like Ali said

2. If your running a wideband o2 sensor, you dont need the simulator, just use the aux. 5v source from your wideband.

3.10-18, I have seen a few that are 9-20..operating afr's will vary depending on driving conditions and boost levels

4.I have no idea, but I have been running stock fuel (except the pump) @ 9psi just fine, so its sufficient.

5.not sure what your looking for, but the only place I have ever tapped for a BC is the signal line going to the wastegate.


What are you going to be using to control your fuel (i.e.-SAFC2, EMU, standalone, MS2?), what kit are you using and how much boost do you plan on running?

And dont rush getting it done in one day, this is the heart of your engine were talking about..and there is a reason most heart transplants take 10+ hours..
Old 02-09-10, 10:30 AM
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I ordered all custom parts to form the kit for now I will be running 255hp on stock injectors at real low boost, but im going with AEM FIC. I looked under there today and theres actually 3 o2's in the header one before the cat and 2 after..hope theres not anymore. And for the union bolt use a T? I bought a complete return/feed kit. And ya 10hrs would be a day and I'll deff work safe!!

Thankss guys
Any more help would be great to for anyone boosting there VVT i
Old 02-09-10, 10:35 AM
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sounds like your set..and it didnt kick in my head that you have 3 o2 sensors, so that makes sense with the simulator. but seems like your on the right track. keep us posted.
Old 02-09-10, 12:14 PM
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Ali SC3
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the first 2 o2 sensors are on the manifold, they will be gone when you install the turbo manifold. depending on your setup you will have spots in the downpipe for placing your o2 sensors.

Most people run a wide-band o2 (0-5v) for tuning/safety, and a narrow-band (0-1v) for the stock ecu to use (stock ecu cannot understand the wideband).
With non-heated o2 sensors (odb1 SC) you can just splice the 1 narrow-band signal wire and run them to the 2 stock o2 sensor connectors.
I think the vvti has heated o2 sensors so you may get a code for that not working. It my be easiest to just run 2 o2 sensors, or mount a resistor for the heater circuit somewhere.

the third one is after the catalytic converter, and is there for checking catalytic efficiency.
I would leave it in place whatever your plans are with the piggyback, so at least you can use it down the road. If the sim is electrical its probably in the cabin, mechanical in the exhaust.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-09-10 at 12:28 PM.
Old 02-09-10, 02:47 PM
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Also the stock fpr is towards the back of engine looks plastic with a gas hard line(cant see a vacuum line) looks like ill leave that alone for now, theres a cap off on the front of intake manifold guessing that wull be used for a source?

And Ive searched on BOV location for minimal compressor surge Many people say closest to TB cause when it shuts it will release rite away, other people say hot side near turbo? Just wondering
Old 02-10-10, 08:49 AM
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lol one more question besides a custom exhaust shop, Where do you boosted guys get a Mid Pipe that bolts to the 3in DP??

Thanks
Old 02-10-10, 10:13 AM
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It would be helpful to know what type of engine management you are planning to use.

Bov location is more preference, i have it on the cold side, sometimes i get slight surge.
I figure if its on the cold side it will release more air (denser)

Why do you want to change the fpr? the stock fuel system with a better fuel pump and injectors works fine for low-medium levels of boost. You should really consider installing larger injectors instead of trying to raise the fuel pressure to squeeze out the max your stock injectors can flow. this could lead to failure of an injector and detonation.

midpipe is a funny thing actually, I have never been able to find one for about a year, then the other day i saw a link for a supra downpipe, but its actually a midpipe pictured.
I haven't ordered or verified what it actually is.
heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...ht_3818wt_1165
Old 02-10-10, 01:20 PM
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ya theres a few sales out there with misleading input but i asked the seller and he stated (This is for 93-98 Supra with the single turbo setup midpipe.
Thanks) So looks like its a go!
Old 02-10-10, 01:23 PM
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(Why do you want to change the fpr? the stock fuel system with a better fuel pump and injectors works fine for low-medium levels of boost. You should really consider installing larger injectors instead of trying to raise the fuel pressure to squeeze out the max your stock injectors can flow. this could lead to failure of an injector and detonation.)

Kind of running out of funds at the moment (jobless) but I will be changing injectors and running a piggyback AEM FIC. But for a while I want to safely drive it around on low boost.
Old 02-10-10, 02:35 PM
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I would check out the is section for some more info regarding the vvti engine and boost im pretty sure the vvti setup runs a returnless fuel system and once you go and upgrade your pump your going to want a return line ran.
Old 02-10-10, 04:42 PM
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Ya thats a good point, think it might have one stock.. not sure this was the post that inspired the build
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-99-sc300.html

I dont think he mentioned it.
Old 02-10-10, 07:38 PM
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And does it matter if I use NGK dual tipped plugs that the vvt-i calls for with a turbo? I know they shouldn't have platinum tips, or is it better to use a single tip plug??
Old 02-11-10, 10:01 AM
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with a 61 trim turbo i ran up to 11 psi on the stock injectors + walboro pump a few times when i first got it. kind of playing with fire but at around 8psi you should be ok, i changed out my wastegate from a 12 lb spring to an 8 lb spring.

not sure about the vvti fuel system but the IS300 section is a good place to start for information. I run NGK BRK7EIX gapped down to .025 They are iridium and can take a trashing, expensive but worth every penny when it takes 2 hours to change your spark plugs.


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