turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

technically, the OBX products arent really ebay fodder, like the knock off SSQV bov's for $60..so were still in the clear.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

I prefer NA-T becuase you know the history and condition of the engine. With that said, I recommend only doing it if you have $10,000. If you don't, it's not worth it imo. That 10k includes everything needing to be done to the car to get it running properly, not just engine mods...

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

^oh well...

cavette

iTrader: (1)

The consensus is that you get what you pay for, and to do any turbo right, it will cost time and money.

I am going to buy a 2002 F-body with about 50,000 miles and be done with it.

Neo300

I'm in the middle of picking up a '95 SC300 5-speed and I will be NA-t'ing it right away.

When using this ECU, do you have to run the Supra TT MAP sensor as well? You are talking about using this ECU in conjunction with some sort of piggyback system?

I have been doing a lot of researching on this NA-T stuff for the past week, I'm glad I came across this thread

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

^nice question.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Yes you have to run the GTE map sensor, if you are running the Stock GTE Ecu.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

i was gonna do it to my car and do a write up with diagrams and everything, but the weather is holding me back. Im not gauranteeing this will work on your car because every car is different and you may need to tweak it, but pretty much you need to address the following things. if you do the injectors, you shouldn't need a piggyback unless you are running more boost than the ecu can read.

you need a TT ecu (duh)
you need a gte map sensor or equivalent 2.3bar and an air temp sensor.
you need 440cc or 550cc injectors depending on the ecu.
you need to wire the TT ecu to work with your regular ignition system (you tie IGT 2-6 into IGT 1 at the TT ecu if you are odb1 w/ the distributor).
you need heated o2 sensors (for code purposes).

It can get more complicated if you want to run coil on plug because you have to run the wires yourself, but above is the bare minimum. im not sure what the driveability is yet with the stock ignition system, but worst comes to worst you can go coil on plug which has already been proven to work. I have some diagrams if anyone needs them you can pm me.

I am gonna try it out in the near future with a motorola 2.5 bar map sensor (cause they are ~$20 online) on a JDM TT ecu with my 550cc injectors. this should give a slight raise in boost cut and even though the jdm ecu calls for 440cc injectors its a popular upgrade to drop in the 550's. The ecu can adjust in closed loop to not run rich but when you floor it you will have that extra fuel up top. ill post all the details when i do it.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

^^sounds gooood. appreciate that input.

evileagle

Doesn't seem like you really listened to what he had to say. He is looking for a pain-free way of making 250-300rwhp. This is something that a bone stock 1JZ can accomplish. The cost of a complete one, and i mean complete would be $2000 with a 5spd r154 shipped or $1200 shipped with an auto from JHOT. There's no hidden fees other than maintenance costs which would be the same if you decided to go the na-t route as you will have to do the maintenance to the GE as well. I just finished the swap a couple months ago and my car runs like a dream...this was my first swap and I can honestly say it wasn't that bad. I did everything myself without even a garage. I have a bunch of bolt ons so I am probably closer to the 300rwhp mark now, but I always have upgrade ability to the single turbo route later. It doesnt sound like he wants to be messing with tuning and getting the car to run right etc...at least that is my interpretation.

My word of advice: Get a 1JZ from JHOT. If you want a 5spd, now is the time to get one when you order the motor set. It will come out cheaper and give you alot let hassle in the longrun(not dealing with shifter extension etc). No need to do anything crazy when it comes to wiring as the harness will work because it is made for the car, you will just have to move a couple wires around. Then you can sell your stock complete GE since it has lower miles for ~$300 or so. Try to do the swap yourself. It really isn't that hard. Find a couple buddies to help you out. This is a swap that can easily be done in a day if you have the experience, like I said, it isn't that hard.

At the end of the day you will have a 250-300 rwp car that is designed so from the factory (yamaha put these 1JZ's together so they know what they are doing). Its going to pull nice, save you gas cause of the lower displacement, spool easily and essentially be the perfect street car. If you want to upgrade, that's no problem as you have a great platform to build on. Best of all its a hell of alot cheaper than NA-T and its more reliable AND much much less headache.

engine/tranny $2000
maintanance $300 (timing belt, fluids, etc)
installation $free if you do it yourself!
Selling your old motor -$300


Total $2000 installed and running!

$1200 if you want to keep it auto!!


Hope this helps...GL with whatever route you choose.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

yes in fact i did listen to his question and i simply expanded on it


the quality of 1jz and ariston 2jz coming out of japan are less then desirable these days ...( i am friends with 2 big importers here in florida that actually goto japan and hand select motors)


for his power goals , no need to open motor just go standalone route add bolt on simply kit and go knowing the meritts of your own engine and with that you have a platform to build from there


2000 for 1jz motorset
labor to perform swap
wiring costs
costs for unforseens

vs above stated

evileagle

Just to get a standalone up and running along with the cost of the unit would exceed the costs of an auto 1JZ in its entirety! An AEM is around $1250 plus ~$400 just for the tune! Now you have to start shelling out all the money for parts too.....see where I am going with this?

Don't get me wrong... Na-t's have their benefits as well. But price point isn't one of them when looking for low power levels.

You are right about the quality of motors getting less and less as they are getting older and older. But that's why you get it from a reputable seller. The ONLY place to buy a 1JZ these days is JHOT. They take it from running cars, unlike most other importers do. Also you have to be patient and wait for a clean motor to show up. Thats what I did and I am glad I waited and didnt jump into it.

Also, what wiring costs are you referring to? There are none. You just have to extend like 50 wires about 20". That cost me about $20 in supplies and a couple beers Point being, you can easily do it yourself if you are not lazy. Tuning a car on a standalone has absolutely nothing to do with laziness, but a lack of a skill.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Malek if you don't find 1jzgte from a Soarer then you have to pay to get the harness done, the Soarer 1JZs are almost impossible to find.

300rwhp that's just the begining that will not be enough for him believe me i have been there and done that, IT was fun when i first did the swap after 2 week it was boring and i got used to it , not talking down on the 1JZ but it's the truth.
If you do a 1jz swap just do the Single conversion at the same time that's just my opinion.
If i have to do it again ...........
Spend you money wisely and GL

7sins

Well here it is... Tuning is a MAJOR factor in any performance app. Whether it's NA-T or a 1j/2jgte. I completely agree with evileagle. If that's all the power you want a 1jz is very simple and the wiring is not hard at all especially with sites like this one and club NA-T and supra forums at your back. With a 1jz you can easily make 400-600 with supporting mods. If you know the right people/shops you can get parts fairly cheap. Personally the thing about going NA-T is the mileage they have on them. Most have at least a 100k and I think that's just to many miles to boost the motor. Now I'm sure people have boosted 200k motors and been ok, but I won't. Now that would mean rebuild the GE and that costs a few bucks. Not to mention the pain in the *** intake manifold(changing spark plugs sucks big horse *****). If you're tuning I bet you go thru atleast one set of plugs if not more. I say F that. So Just go GTE!!! People will disagree but I think it's cheaper and EASIER than NA-T. It takes 10 minutes to change plugs on a GTE and takes hours to change plugs on a GE. That in itself should be enough for you or anyone to wanna go GTE.
No disrespect but GE's are no fun and i would never waist my time on one!!

evileagle

My 1J came from a Soarer. JHOT gets them all the time. Just gotta call them up and ask them whats on the next shipment and put a deposit on it. Ask for Dzung.

Also, I agree with you on going single, but that's my opinion and yours. For us, 300 rwhp isn't enough For him it might totally be, and that's what he said he wants and was shooting for. It's most defiantly not worth a single turbo upgrade if your looking for 300 rwhp....there's just no point. I personally am in the works with a GT35 setup, but thats my taste and preference...to each his own

Once again, GL in whatever route you choose.