ok i will definetley take a harder lool

 

ROFL! That's a good one...

330whp in a 3700lb car (with driver), is good for ~13.0 in the quartermile. You will lose to just about every modern turbo/V8 car with bolt-ons.

Not to say 330whp isn't a fun car.. it is. And probably enough for 99% of the people out there, but as for smoking anything worth a ****... you'll need another 100whp. I don't mean to crush your dreams, but if you're serious about those goals, your going to need a bit more than 6-9psi.

FWIW, a 2000lb "***** civic" needs 198whp (that's an H22 swap with *NO* boost) to keep up with your 330whp SC.

 

^that seems like an overstatement...im just sayin...

 

well maybe well i am doing the engine rebuild i will change the gasket as well so if i get bored with the 330 hp i can always turn the boost up

 

how much boost do you think i need for about 400hp at the wheels

 

id guess...15ish...im not to sure.

 

Depends on the turbo, but you'll definitely need larger injectors. Supra 550's would be okay, but getting up there in the duty cycle.

A GT35R at 13-15psi should net 400whp, so if you're not using a GT35R, figure out if your turbo is bigger or smaller and go from there.

 

what about a t4?

 

You need to do A LOT MORE research on turbos before you get into this.

"T4" means nothing. All it denotes is the turbine housing bolt pattern a basic turbine housing frame.

If you're choosing turbos, you need to know the turbine frame type, compressor size, turbine size, and A/R of the turbine housing at a minimum.

Go to supraforums and search the turbo forums... I'm sure there is a sticky somewhere about "choosing the right turbo."

 

SUPER T04B TURBO CHARGER .96ar

Intake: 3 inch
Inlet: 2 inch
Compressor trim: .60ar
Compressor Wheel diameter: 53.90 /69.31
Turbine Wheel diameter: 63.98 /73.89
Exhaust Trim: .96ar
Turbine flange type:T4 flange
Down pipe flange type: 3 inch v band

 

A GT35R is:

Compressor trim: .70ar
Compressor Wheel Diameter: 61.4/82
Turbine Wheel Diameter: 68/84
Exhaust trim: .82ar
Exhasut flange type: T3

Hard to tell by the numbers alone, especially since you're talking about a USA-made, tested, and developed GT35R vs. a Piece-of-crap chinaman copy cat turbo..

If I had to guess, you'd need at least 15psi out of the copycat.

 

so will this turbo not withstand? should i buy a brand name turbo this was just the one that came with the na-t kit. i was thinking about just parting a whole system together and only buying the down pipe, turbo manifold, and oil return lines as a kit

 

To each his own. Plenty of people have had success with the copycat chinese turbos. I don't want to get into that debate.

If you want *MY* opinion, and I've been building turbo cars for ~15 years, save money on the cheap stuff by purchasing a chinese manifold, downpipe, or whatever you want, but don't cheap out on the turbo.

If exhaust parts break... oh well. They can be replaced/rewelded/reworked. If your turbo fails (bearings burn out or shaft breaks, oil starved from poorly cast passages, etc) and any bits of the compressor wheel or metal go through your intake, that's going to cost a hellofa lot more to fix than just buying a good turbo to begin with.

To be realistic, your intercooler will trap most anything large, but why risk it?

 

^^^agreed...keep your "vitals" high quality (turbo/wg/bov)..the XS Power manifold is a decent manifold and isnt much and you can generally find them used for an even better price, the same with the XS intercoolers/pipes, and ebay downpipes..

cracked manifold-$20 to repair or free if you can weld...blown turbo throwing crap into your engine- well you get the idea

 

What would be a good turbo then for 3 to 500 horsepower with a t4 housing