What sucks about that is the T4 housing turbos were really made for over 400+ horsepower. You can try to cheat it by using smaller A/R housings that are still T4 footprint, but they will always be laggy compared to a well balanced (compressor size vs turbine size) T3.

IMHO, the best turbo made for 300-500whp is a T3 based GT35R with the .63AR hotside. I will be planning on using this turbo with one of the T3 manifolds (though for a 1JZ head - http://www.suprastore.com/1jststsitut3.html). With a 3L bottom end, this turbo should make 400-450whp at less than 20psi and 400wtq before 4000rpm (with meaningful boost before 3000rpm).

But turbo choices are like *******s....everybody has one. Some people like that slow, never ending freight train rush of a big turbo, even if it means giving up low end torque.

I like torque. My other car is a 1993 RX7 with a 415whp/405wtq LS1 V8 in it, and it's a BLAST to drive because of the always available torque. I don't mind if my SC doesn't make any power past 6000rpm, as long as it makes neck snapping torque from 2500-6000rpm.

 

i dont think t4 is the housing i think its just the style and pattern of the bolt on section of the turbo..

 

that is a 1300 dollar turbo though hahaha i might go for a t3 size turbo but there is no way i can afford to spend that much on just the turbo

 

Right and wrong. Yes, "T4" does determine the bolt spacing for the manifold mounting flange, but it also determines the cross sectional area of the openning into the exhaust housing itself.

The larger this cross section, the more volume/flow the turbine housing can handle. This trasnlates to better VE in the upper RPM range, and a powerband that starts a little later, but doesn't drop off.

The smaller this cross sectional area, the higher the air SPEED and that spools the turbo faster, but it will choke up top.

Sure, the internal structure (A/R to some extent) has a lot to do with airspeed vs. air volume, but there's no way of getting around the difference between T3 and T4 turbine inlet cross section.

Obviously it's more complicated than that, but you get the gist.

 

what would be a good t3 turbo for 800 but preferably less

 

You'd have to look into a journal bearing turbo. It's been a long time since I ran one so i can't really help you there.

IMO, a T4 turbo is a waste for less than 500whp but considering the "I want power, but I don't want to spend the money to do it right" crowd that's prevalent these days, it may be the only realistic option for <$800.

 

if i had money to spend i would do it right, right now i have a 92 300zx na 2+2 that im going to sell to pay for my sc 300 which im getting for 3100 from a friend. i should get about 4500 to 5000 for the car so i will end up with about 1500 to 2000 to spend on my na-t swap as well as rebuilding the engine. im only 17 with a part time job at dairy queen (yes dairy queen i know it is pathetic but it gives me some money) so with all that into consideration i have to go the cheap way that most people disagree with. listening to your advice i think i will go for the t3 setup instead since i like low rpm power as well

 

I don't understand your argument. While its great that you personally make that power on a NA-T, what does that have to do with what the OP is asking and where does price and reliability come into play regarding his question? Also in your right mind you cant honestly expect/suggest him to rebuild his bottom end, throw in a new set of pistons, go with a full standalone, and then start buying his whole turbo kit, all for the sake of 300 whp...you keep missing that.

Think about it...if he is asking our input about what route to take, then chances are he is still new to the game...If someone is new to the game, do you honestly think suggesting what you are would be the best advice? That's the kind of advice that will get someone stuck, aggravated, and out a hell of alot of money real quick, and will most likely have nothing to show for it in the end. Like I said before and ill say it again: Na-t is NOT the go cheap route for a CHEAP RELIABLE setup...If you goals were 650hp then that would be a totally different story as going the GTE route is probably a waste of time and money.

The honest truth...I'd take a beaten on 1JZgte that was properly built by yamaha to spec than a GE that is "freshly rebuilt" by some shp (or worse yet yourself) given the fact that 99% of people out there simply don't truly know how to rebuild these motors correctly and end up with all sorts of issues 5000 miles down the road...I've PERSONALLY SEEN THIS countless number of times by even REPUTABLE SHOPS.



On a side note, I'm not trying to sound aggravated, be rude or anything, but I'm just remembered when I first started out and how I wish that someone would have steered me in the right direction then. I learned from my mistakes and others and that's why I'm trying to make it a point to the OP not to do the same. My main point here was to not bite off more than you can chew, and by people recommending NA-T's with rebuilding your engine and running standalone's....well that's like having a feast to say the least.

Keep it simple...get a soarer 1JGTE, swap it in, be happy.

 

my last post on this

lets get this right homie

1jz swap viable option however leaves the door open for loads of issues that people have been having of lately with less then desirable setups

i dont know about your background , but i personally have done loads of swaps 1 and 2jz here in florida with my own 2 hands and have seen costs skyrocket because of the unforseen's , this is fact not fiction.. i have seen recent sludge monsters , i have seen where we have had to return motors because of poor compression numbers and sludged up heads etc etc etc.. we have had a couple folks here go thur 2 1jz and 2 2jz because of various issues here and there



i said before and will say again , for the op goals na-t is the way to go .. as long as you compression test your motor and numbers read to spec and consistent across the board you are good to go


i suggest na-t for him because with his goals he does not have to open up motor .. stock compression is safe as long as hes on a standalone which in any build gte or ge is the most critical part of the equation

so at least investing in that ems from now gives the original poster options in upgrading down the road with injectors /turbo's etc etc

just about all of our south florida crew is now running standalones from ge's to 1and2jz setups , no more piggy crap

start with cleansc car here in miami , been running for over 4yrs strong , 150k on odometer and never opened motor , running 14psi for 440 rwhp ( see post #15)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...he-reveal.html

heres the video of said car and further writeup

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...the-video.html

heres BIG DADDY PERF own sons car here in south florida
wonder why they decided to build a na-t vs swapping in gte , and big daddy runs high 7's in his supra
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=575589

so in closing , just because myself and wickedsc on here are making solid power with na-t , i am not trying to sway op to our side however given the intended purpose of car na-t sounds the more feasable route to go


if OP wants more power and boost down the road , remove head , install TT HG and turn boost up to 20ish lbs and be in the 500 range and only have to add bigger injectors and a quick retune /cleanup tune and done


if i had to do this all over again would i go na-t answer , hell yeah unless i found a rock solid gte low milage clean setup but otherwise i dont see the reason


at the end of the day OP needs to read and decide whats best for their pocket and be truthful on what their long term goals are and to make sure they leave themselves viable options to grow

 

NA-T FTMFW... Even if u go GTE swap ur eventually gonna get the boost bug (FOR SURE) and are going to upgrade to single turbo more fuel etc etc. so might as well just start off the right way

 

I like all three Na-T, 2JZGTE and 1JZGTE i like them all.
But i agree 100% with "ED".

 

I'm going 1.5JZ. I've done enough turbo motor swaps, and NA-T conversions on other cars to know... been doing it for 15 years or so.

If you want DRIVEABILITY, nothing beats a stock ECU.

Anyway, I plan to eliminate all the questionable jdm clip problems by going 1.5JZ. It will cost about $600 more, but then you know you're safe:

Gasket set - $200
Timing belt + misc 1.5 JZ costs - $200
Head cleaning, resurfacing, valve job - $200

After that process, I'll have a spotless head with new seals and valve job, and the bottom end will be the motor I already have and trust, on good compression.

 

driveability of stock ecu , nothing beats it

i dont know about that .. my car runs and drive like stock and i get better gas milage as well

its all in the tune and tuners exp

even if you go gte running vpc or safc or anykind of piggyback is more of a annoyance then anything


dealing with check eng lights and car being thrown into limp mode is not my idea of fun

going standalone removes those variables

 

lol, dont waste too much of your time lexforlife, they are gonna have to go down the path to fully understand all the dilemmas.
I posted how to run an na-t off a gte ecu for a few hundred bux about 20 posts ago but no ones seems to care. they still think they have to swap engines and hack up a harness to run a stock toyota ecu (which IMO was one of the only things that made me consider a swap in the first place). putting a few wires through the firewall is much easier than swapping out your engine, and that my friends is a fact.

Thats interesting to know one of your friends is pushing 14 psi w/ stock compression. I have the same setup w/ aem ems but im boosting off the gate at 9psi. I was waiting to do the headgasket to turn it up but 14 psi sounds like a really nice spot. might have to go find myself a boost controller now.

 

I have a feeling that the only people that are going to understand the na-t "point of view", are the people like us that have been running an na-t setup successfully for a decent amount of time regardless of engine management..stock ecu, piggy back, or standalone..

The one major thing people miss, and I stress this over and over again, is that the SC300 already has a 2JZ in it. .

To me ordering a 2JZ when you already have one, is like being married but still paying for hookers..you already have it free, why pay more for the same thing that someone else has already used and abused?