NA-T -- Is it worth the trouble?
02-18-10, 12:40 PM
#92
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To me, the 1J swap is more desireable because my car is an auto (like most SC's). To do the R154 swap onto my 2JZGE, it's going to cost at least $1,500 to do it right:
Bellhousing: $350
Clutch/flywheel: $600
Used R154: $600
Shifter extension crap: $200
-------
$1,750
I can get a complete manual 1JZ/R154 swap for $2,000 shipped to my door..... So basically about $500 for the 1JZ engine/turbos/ecu/etc complete after counting out what I WOULD have spent going R154 without it.
Bellhousing: $350
Clutch/flywheel: $600
Used R154: $600
Shifter extension crap: $200
-------
$1,750
I can get a complete manual 1JZ/R154 swap for $2,000 shipped to my door..... So basically about $500 for the 1JZ engine/turbos/ecu/etc complete after counting out what I WOULD have spent going R154 without it.
02-18-10, 02:14 PM
#93
Na-t has been fun for me and definitely a learning experience but I'm getting tired of the hassles involved with piggybacks and not quite ready to spend the $$$ on standalone so ive got a 1.5jz planned which is probably best of both worlds with alot less headache.
Ive also dont the 1jz swap and that was easier than na-t in regards to effort involved with getting everything running but NA-t > 1jz as far as out of the box power is concerned.
Ive also dont the 1jz swap and that was easier than na-t in regards to effort involved with getting everything running but NA-t > 1jz as far as out of the box power is concerned.
02-18-10, 02:16 PM
#94
To me, the 1J swap is more desireable because my car is an auto (like most SC's). To do the R154 swap onto my 2JZGE, it's going to cost at least $1,500 to do it right:
Bellhousing: $350
Clutch/flywheel: $600
Used R154: $600
Shifter extension crap: $200
-------
$1,750
I can get a complete manual 1JZ/R154 swap for $2,000 shipped to my door..... So basically about $500 for the 1JZ engine/turbos/ecu/etc complete after counting out what I WOULD have spent going R154 without it.
Bellhousing: $350
Clutch/flywheel: $600
Used R154: $600
Shifter extension crap: $200
-------
$1,750
I can get a complete manual 1JZ/R154 swap for $2,000 shipped to my door..... So basically about $500 for the 1JZ engine/turbos/ecu/etc complete after counting out what I WOULD have spent going R154 without it.
02-18-10, 07:39 PM
#96
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Originally Posted by boostd4
I'm going 1.5JZ. I've done enough turbo motor swaps, and NA-T conversions on other cars to know... been doing it for 15 years or so.
02-18-10, 09:26 PM
#97
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02-19-10, 10:36 PM
#98
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I don't understand your argument. While its great that you personally make that power on a NA-T, what does that have to do with what the OP is asking and where does price and reliability come into play regarding his question? Also in your right mind you cant honestly expect/suggest him to rebuild his bottom end, throw in a new set of pistons, go with a full standalone, and then start buying his whole turbo kit, all for the sake of 300 whp...you keep missing that.
Think about it...if he is asking our input about what route to take, then chances are he is still new to the game...If someone is new to the game, do you honestly think suggesting what you are would be the best advice? That's the kind of advice that will get someone stuck, aggravated, and out a hell of alot of money real quick, and will most likely have nothing to show for it in the end. Like I said before and ill say it again: Na-t is NOT the go cheap route for a CHEAP RELIABLE setup...If you goals were 650hp then that would be a totally different story as going the GTE route is probably a waste of time and money.
The honest truth...I'd take a beaten on 1JZgte that was properly built by yamaha to spec than a GE that is "freshly rebuilt" by some shp (or worse yet yourself) given the fact that 99% of people out there simply don't truly know how to rebuild these motors correctly and end up with all sorts of issues 5000 miles down the road...I've PERSONALLY SEEN THIS countless number of times by even REPUTABLE SHOPS.
On a side note, I'm not trying to sound aggravated, be rude or anything, but I'm just remembered when I first started out and how I wish that someone would have steered me in the right direction then. I learned from my mistakes and others and that's why I'm trying to make it a point to the OP not to do the same. My main point here was to not bite off more than you can chew, and by people recommending NA-T's with rebuilding your engine and running standalone's....well that's like having a feast to say the least.
Keep it simple...get a soarer 1JGTE, swap it in, be happy.
Think about it...if he is asking our input about what route to take, then chances are he is still new to the game...If someone is new to the game, do you honestly think suggesting what you are would be the best advice? That's the kind of advice that will get someone stuck, aggravated, and out a hell of alot of money real quick, and will most likely have nothing to show for it in the end. Like I said before and ill say it again: Na-t is NOT the go cheap route for a CHEAP RELIABLE setup...If you goals were 650hp then that would be a totally different story as going the GTE route is probably a waste of time and money.
The honest truth...I'd take a beaten on 1JZgte that was properly built by yamaha to spec than a GE that is "freshly rebuilt" by some shp (or worse yet yourself) given the fact that 99% of people out there simply don't truly know how to rebuild these motors correctly and end up with all sorts of issues 5000 miles down the road...I've PERSONALLY SEEN THIS countless number of times by even REPUTABLE SHOPS.
On a side note, I'm not trying to sound aggravated, be rude or anything, but I'm just remembered when I first started out and how I wish that someone would have steered me in the right direction then. I learned from my mistakes and others and that's why I'm trying to make it a point to the OP not to do the same. My main point here was to not bite off more than you can chew, and by people recommending NA-T's with rebuilding your engine and running standalone's....well that's like having a feast to say the least.
Keep it simple...get a soarer 1JGTE, swap it in, be happy.
EVILEAGLE, thanks for your input, as you have addressed my main concern about price and reliability of achieving my power goals.
And my SC is already a 5-speed!
Last edited by cavette; 02-21-10 at 05:03 PM.
02-21-10, 04:09 AM
#100
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02-21-10, 05:04 AM
#101
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http://www.suprastore.com/tosutucokit1.html
anyone have exp with that kit
anyone have exp with that kit
I was told not to mess with them on supraforums.
02-21-10, 12:02 PM
#104
Okayyy- for a low horse build you'd have to be a complete retard to swap the motor out- especially for a GTE. You do not need A) Oil Squirters B) a better flowing head C) Coil packs. What you do need is a Turbonetics Log style manifold, a 61mm turbo, a map ecu2 or you could even run alphabet soup avcr/afc on that low of a horse build. Upgrade to 550 injectors (Rc Engineering- send them yours and they'll mill them for you- they'll fit your stock rail). Upgrade your fuel pump- even better, buy two densos). Buy a decent small wastegate and a happy sounding blowoff valve, have a local shop do your piping. You won't even need to weld it up at that psi. Hell, you probably wouldn't even need reinforced couplers or t bolts. Free up your exhaust and do an intake. Super-simple. Super-cheap.
02-21-10, 12:04 PM
#105
Actually- I'd go with a smaller turbo to reduce lag- it'd still meet your hp needs. http://www.precisionturbo.net
And you won't be needing to upgrade to an R154- don't listen to anyone who tells you you need one for a 300hp build. Standard w58 with an ACT or RPS will do.
And you won't be needing to upgrade to an R154- don't listen to anyone who tells you you need one for a 300hp build. Standard w58 with an ACT or RPS will do.