After EGR system delete!!!
#17
Intermediate
Yes, red goes, green stays. You'll need EGR blockoff plates too. They sell them online, or you can use thermal expansion plugs. The ones that pop out of the engine block if the water in it freezes, but I'm uncertain of the sizes. 35/64 of an inch and a deep 20mm I think? You'll also need a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resister which you wire into the EGR sensor to fool the car into thinking that it's still on and working.
#20
1997soarer, if i did would that cause the car not to idle? it started then died and now will only run if i start it with half throttle and hold it if not it will stall out. what lines are they in the picture?
thanks again
thanks again
#21
so this is where I'm at and what i have done so far hope the pictures came out ok enough to understand what i have capped off
the last pic is that valve not sure what it is under the y pipe before manifold i just capped off the hose on that as well because i didn't want to bother removing it.
the last pic is that valve not sure what it is under the y pipe before manifold i just capped off the hose on that as well because i didn't want to bother removing it.
#23
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Reinstall the vacuum tank and hook this valve and it's VSV back up. I had to prove it to myself on a race course that this valve effects performance. At 4,000 rpm it kicks in and it is definitely necessary to get full performance. I think Ali posted a really good description of what this valve does and how it works, it may be in my build thread but don't have time to look right now. I never can remember the name of it, its like ACIS valve but I just remember it is 4 letters and starts with A. It's purpose is to change the intake runner length at high/low rpm.
Last edited by RXRodger; 09-05-16 at 08:48 AM.
#24
RXrodger so i hooked some hoses back up but still wouldn't idle, found the real culprit. I guess there is a reason why they say to not use the same gasket again, i took some cleaner spray and found it was taking in air got that fixed but as you can see in video I'm still getting white smoke and not sure why? my first thought was HG but then i read on here that it could be the ECU called up my dad ( who game me the car) and he said he bought one of eBay a year ago, could it still be the issue? also before i order one should i just open it up and see if capacitors are bad? then i know for sure?
Last edited by shaka778; 09-08-16 at 06:01 PM. Reason: add attachment
#25
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
RXrodger so i hooked some hoses back up but still wouldn't idle, found the real culprit. I guess there is a reason why they say to not use the same gasket again, i took some cleaner spray and found it was taking in air got that fixed but as you can see in video I'm still getting white smoke and not sure why? my first thought was HG but then i read on here that it could be the ECU called up my dad ( who game me the car) and he said he bought one of eBay a year ago, could it still be the issue? also before i order one should i just open it up and see if capacitors are bad? then i know for sure?
Edit: Looks like it went up a bit, about $150 now.
Last edited by RXRodger; 09-08-16 at 06:21 PM. Reason: price
#26
Driver
iTrader: (2)
Where is the sensor located that I need to plug the resistor into and what do I do with the blue/green plug on the harness that the Vacuum Switching Valve plugs into after I unplug it? I left the canister plugged in that controls the butterfly in the upper intake manifold.
Thank You in advance
Thank You in advance
#28
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Yes the butterfly valve needs to stay. The canister is the one shown in the vacuum diagram that connects to the VSV for this valve. You do need to leave this canister. It gives some vacuum capacitance so that the reaction of the valve happens quickly. Removing the ACIS would not affect idle unless you left the vacuum hoses disconnected, but it certainly will affect performance.
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SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)
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01-05-12 06:23 AM