The title says it all I guess...so..what gaps are you all running? and at what psi...Im at ~7 or so and about to do plugs..so im curious on what you all are doing. Thanks for any and all input.

edit: Im thinking .028...

Ashtray-

 

.26-.28 thousandths works well. Ive tried 30 but around 10psi it was a little hesitant in the upper rpms.

 

.026" (or was it 25 ), NGK Iridiums, heat range 8 (BKR8EIX), about 13 lbs. boost

 

On 16lbs I was running NGK 3330's at between .26-.28 I believe...

Jonny

 

K great. Ive decided to go with .28mm gap.

 

I would recommend using copper plugs, the bkr7e.
I have been running the Iridiums (Bkr7eix) and I am not impressed with them.
if you are on the stock distributor keep it a little tight, .026 to .028 sounds good.
I had to gap my iridiums to about .025 and there is some spark blow out randomly around 10psi.

 

Damn, I guess we'll see how these iridiums hold up. turbodremz was running them and claimed to have gotten good results. We'll see.

Edit: Whats blow out?

 

Well, after the plug change...HEAVY smoke from the exhaust, and idles at literally 17 on the dot with the afr gauge.

 

.28 as well

 

spark blow out is the reason we have to worry about plug selection and gap.

think of your spark plug like a lighter and the compressed air like wind.
if theres no wind you can light the lighter no problem.
the more wind there is (compressed air) the more likely it is to blow out the flame (spark). then you add fuel into the mix... I guess that could be rain and wind... lol

its more complicated than that obviously but just a general idea.

closing in the gap makes it easier for the plug to fire and less likely that the compressed air and excess fuel will interrupt the spark. Of course this is at the trade off of being able to ignite less and less of the mixture in the combustion chamber.
you can also amplify the spark with a dli system if you are coil on plug, or if you can go oldschool msd (multiple spark system) which gives you more chances of success by splitting the spark up into smaller interval sparks.

edit: lots of smoke and 17 afr doesnt sound right. did you reset your ecu yet??
its probably just going off old values or you might have missed a vac line or something.

 

I checked all the vac lines and they were secure. Im thinking the guys at the shop didnt connect something correctly. but yea lots of smoke and 17 afr feels like ****. I havent reset the ecu because Ive got an safc2 and im not sure what side effects it will have on the settings i already have on there. Will there be any side effects?

 

Resetting the ecu wont effect the settings on safc, the settings for that are stored internally and arent effected by power loss or disconnection.

 

K good to know. What would resetting the ecu do in any case?

 

i was recommended to use .026 irridiums IK24's"i think heat range 8" on 18 PSI, and i have DLI. I gotta say i ran .034 NGK's on 15 psi with no problem though. I was going to the dyno so i didn't wanna take my chances and just gapped them down. Now, i think i'm gonna raise the gap and see how far i can take it with no blowouts.

 

I used to reset the cars ecu, but leave the safc settings how they were.
it would put the ecu back to open loop which means safe fueling, and it will learn to adjust the fuel mixture from scratch (instead of looking up previous values).

Ideally if your safc is dialed in really close it wont take the ecu very long to learn the correct fuel map, and you wont notice alot of change when you reset the ecu. if your car drives a lot different when you reset it then your tune may need some tweaking. the goal is to get less adjustment by the ecu.