Too Good to be True Turbo Kit?
#1
Too Good to be True Turbo Kit?
This looks a little cheap to me, lol is it junk or a good deal?
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...50-90-SH250-90
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...50-90-SH250-90
#3
*Yes too good to be true
Items Included on this kit:
- T67 Turbo, with Oil Restrictor Flange
- Manifold with Gaskets
- Downpipe
- Air Intake pipe
- 3" V-band Clamp
- 2.5" Cast Elbow pipe
- 2.5" 90 Degree Silicon Hose
Note:
- Donwpipe fits the turbo perfectly and extends down without hitting anything. but due to different models, it might need a small modification on the tail end that connects to Cat and exhaust pipe
- Turbo needs to clock to the direction as shown on pictures. We provide a sharp Bent Cast elbow pipe to weld to to the turbo for better fitment(you will need to weld the cast pipe to turbo outlet), we also provide a 90 degree silicon hose (if used, you don't need to weld the cast elbow pipe, but might betoo close to the manifold, too hot), it is recommended to weld the cast elbow pipe.
notice what is missing? Fmic? oil lines? piping?- all you have there is a start of a turbo kit. If you want to piece together a kit you will spend around 2-3k at least do do it right. Dont forget fuel management, fuel system mods too!
Items Included on this kit:
- T67 Turbo, with Oil Restrictor Flange
- Manifold with Gaskets
- Downpipe
- Air Intake pipe
- 3" V-band Clamp
- 2.5" Cast Elbow pipe
- 2.5" 90 Degree Silicon Hose
Note:
- Donwpipe fits the turbo perfectly and extends down without hitting anything. but due to different models, it might need a small modification on the tail end that connects to Cat and exhaust pipe
- Turbo needs to clock to the direction as shown on pictures. We provide a sharp Bent Cast elbow pipe to weld to to the turbo for better fitment(you will need to weld the cast pipe to turbo outlet), we also provide a 90 degree silicon hose (if used, you don't need to weld the cast elbow pipe, but might betoo close to the manifold, too hot), it is recommended to weld the cast elbow pipe.
notice what is missing? Fmic? oil lines? piping?- all you have there is a start of a turbo kit. If you want to piece together a kit you will spend around 2-3k at least do do it right. Dont forget fuel management, fuel system mods too!
#4
*Yes too good to be true
Items Included on this kit:
- T67 Turbo, with Oil Restrictor Flange
- Manifold with Gaskets
- Downpipe
- Air Intake pipe
- 3" V-band Clamp
- 2.5" Cast Elbow pipe
- 2.5" 90 Degree Silicon Hose
Note:
- Donwpipe fits the turbo perfectly and extends down without hitting anything. but due to different models, it might need a small modification on the tail end that connects to Cat and exhaust pipe
- Turbo needs to clock to the direction as shown on pictures. We provide a sharp Bent Cast elbow pipe to weld to to the turbo for better fitment(you will need to weld the cast pipe to turbo outlet), we also provide a 90 degree silicon hose (if used, you don't need to weld the cast elbow pipe, but might betoo close to the manifold, too hot), it is recommended to weld the cast elbow pipe.
notice what is missing? Fmic? oil lines? piping?- all you have there is a start of a turbo kit. If you want to piece together a kit you will spend around 2-3k at least do do it right. Dont forget fuel management, fuel system mods too!
Items Included on this kit:
- T67 Turbo, with Oil Restrictor Flange
- Manifold with Gaskets
- Downpipe
- Air Intake pipe
- 3" V-band Clamp
- 2.5" Cast Elbow pipe
- 2.5" 90 Degree Silicon Hose
Note:
- Donwpipe fits the turbo perfectly and extends down without hitting anything. but due to different models, it might need a small modification on the tail end that connects to Cat and exhaust pipe
- Turbo needs to clock to the direction as shown on pictures. We provide a sharp Bent Cast elbow pipe to weld to to the turbo for better fitment(you will need to weld the cast pipe to turbo outlet), we also provide a 90 degree silicon hose (if used, you don't need to weld the cast elbow pipe, but might betoo close to the manifold, too hot), it is recommended to weld the cast elbow pipe.
notice what is missing? Fmic? oil lines? piping?- all you have there is a start of a turbo kit. If you want to piece together a kit you will spend around 2-3k at least do do it right. Dont forget fuel management, fuel system mods too!
#5
I wouldnt say its really easier to just do a 1jz swap unless you plan to keep the stock twins. I would budget the 2-3k to go single on either engine. Turbo + engine management will tear up most of the budget, the rest can be had for fairly cheap though. Then you have to add in labor/install/tuning.
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#8
Usually un name brand turbo's except master power(They just mass produce the C**P out of their turbos letting them sell it cheap, but not all that cheap). Are rejected turbos from the manufactures then sold dirt cheap and rebuilt by smaller companies and that is what you find on ebay and so on.
#9
doesnt look too bad, most kits dont come with piping, if you cant pick some oil lines out yourself you shouldn't be installing it anyways, and the downpipe and the clocking is a problem with every kit. I have almost the exact same downpipe and intake pipe on my car right now and it bolted right on no modifications. they most likely put disclaimers cause every car is slightly different.
for that price you can buy yourself a really nice turbo and still be under the price of some other kits. and you get a t67 to set up everything on so you don't blow up your really nice turbo from the start.
for that price you can buy yourself a really nice turbo and still be under the price of some other kits. and you get a t67 to set up everything on so you don't blow up your really nice turbo from the start.
#10
I would buy everything on that pics except the Turbo, but it's you choice and i don't know how much money you are willing to spend on this project.
The 1JZ route you might think it's cheap but it's really not.... i have been there and done that.
You have to do the maintenance on the 1JZ once you get it, may be replace the Turbo because majority of the time the twins are blown or almost there.
You can do the 1JZ and go Single in a couple of months, you have to weight your options.
Hope you make the right choice good luck.
The 1JZ route you might think it's cheap but it's really not.... i have been there and done that.
You have to do the maintenance on the 1JZ once you get it, may be replace the Turbo because majority of the time the twins are blown or almost there.
You can do the 1JZ and go Single in a couple of months, you have to weight your options.
Hope you make the right choice good luck.
#11
I would buy everything on that pics except the Turbo, but it's you choice and i don't know how much money you are willing to spend on this project.
The 1JZ route you might think it's cheap but it's really not.... i have been there and done that.
You have to do the maintenance on the 1JZ once you get it, may be replace the Turbo because majority of the time the twins are blown or almost there.
You can do the 1JZ and go Single in a couple of months, you have to weight your options.
Hope you make the right choice good luck.
The 1JZ route you might think it's cheap but it's really not.... i have been there and done that.
You have to do the maintenance on the 1JZ once you get it, may be replace the Turbo because majority of the time the twins are blown or almost there.
You can do the 1JZ and go Single in a couple of months, you have to weight your options.
Hope you make the right choice good luck.
#12
Ive run the cx stuff with no problems, you would be surprised what other dealers use his products, they do the manufacturing for a few other companies, their turbos are pretty reliable, a few us d1 drivers use them, all lower rank but yet their cars run well, motors seam to blow before turbos with them.....
#14
you can always be the first to try it out on here. I was considering using that turbo to see how it would hold up. I do have their intercooler, bov, and pipping. I was impressed by the intercooler and how well the pipping looked. The only thing that I did see pretty iffy was the BOV flange. It wasn't 100% flat. It had an arc to it.