Ashtrays NA-T problem/help thread
03-12-10, 01:42 PM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ca
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
btw what would valve covers have to do with the engine misfiring. I have breathers on my valve covers which you could say is a giant air leak.. we all do. if its anything mechanical its more likely that your mechanic messed up your base timing somehow when messing with the dizzy.
like i suggested in the earlier post to ashtray just get the valve cover gasket replaced (also chk head gasket like turbodremz said, but i think ur gasket is fine low boost shouldnt blow it + would be hella more smoke) and get a proper tune and im sure your car will be happy.
03-12-10, 01:45 PM
#17
interesting, I guess that makes sense cause if its letting too much air in the ecu wont be able to compensate but it seems to be able to for the breather on the crank case.
check out this thread for more info on settings:
http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17
pretty much everything I said I learnt from what they said and playing with mine.
check out this thread for more info on settings:
http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17
pretty much everything I said I learnt from what they said and playing with mine.
03-12-10, 01:57 PM
#18
Okay then. Tomorrow morning, ill do the retune, drive cycles and see how she acts. Just to clarify..I set the lo to 0% across the board while the car is on? or on acc? then i turn it off all the way, and reset the ecu? Is that the correct order of things, please clarify just a bit. Thanks guys. Appreciate all this help. If anything...Boostlogic might be my next tuner.
Edit: So I should get my valve cover gasket looked at or even replaced?
Edit: So I should get my valve cover gasket looked at or even replaced?
Last edited by ashtray; 03-12-10 at 03:29 PM.
03-12-10, 03:35 PM
#19
Do it while the car is not running, but the safc is on.
set the low to 0% across rpms. maybe change the low/high tps point like I said earlier.
take the key out, and reset the cars ecu (disconnect batter terminal).
start her up and let her run for a while till the o2 sensors heat / car is warm.
take is for a spin short shifting it the whole time so you don't hit boost (under 4k rpms and less than 50% throttle the whole time) if it doesnt learn completely on the first spin don't worry. let her cool down and do it again.
she should eventually start idling and cruising just like before you installed the turbo.
from there you can start getting into boost and adjusting your high throttle numbers.
set the low to 0% across rpms. maybe change the low/high tps point like I said earlier.
take the key out, and reset the cars ecu (disconnect batter terminal).
start her up and let her run for a while till the o2 sensors heat / car is warm.
take is for a spin short shifting it the whole time so you don't hit boost (under 4k rpms and less than 50% throttle the whole time) if it doesnt learn completely on the first spin don't worry. let her cool down and do it again.
she should eventually start idling and cruising just like before you installed the turbo.
from there you can start getting into boost and adjusting your high throttle numbers.
03-12-10, 03:38 PM
#20
K. By changing the low/high tps point, could you elaborate on that just a bit? thats where i lost you. Everything else is clear though...and do you also recommend changing the valve gasket? Or could this smoke be coming from the tuning and i should check that first? If the smoke continues during the "after tune" will it damage anything driving while needing a new valve cover gasket?
03-12-10, 04:34 PM
#21
you know i didn't even think about what you said about the exhaust leak.
if your o2 sensors/wideband are in your downpipe and you have a leak there, they could be reading incorrectly, probably lean even if your fueling is correct.
This could cause the ecu to up the fuel and = extra smoke.
I would make sure that your downpipe is not leaking any exhaust gas at all. if you hover your hand around that area (dont touch it, it will burn you) you should be able to tell if you have a leak, especially if you give it a little gas. probably the most important exhaust connection there is.
the low high tps point are like switches. you have low correction and high correction.
below your low throttle %, you will have 0 correction up until your low throttle % (this is when your in vacuum most likely, we let the ecu handle this).
above your high throttle %, you will have X correction all the way to 100% throttle, where X is the values you tuned (You should be in boost by this number unless your rpms are too low, which is why they tune high % by rpm).
but in between the low throttle % and the high throttle %, it will take an average between the high and low ( this is where sometimes your in vac and sometimes your in boost, so you move these numbers around to give you some extra fuel in transition to boost)
its a tricky thing to understand but once youve seen it done its really not that bad.
At least you are on stock injectors, that would complicate it further..
if your o2 sensors/wideband are in your downpipe and you have a leak there, they could be reading incorrectly, probably lean even if your fueling is correct.
This could cause the ecu to up the fuel and = extra smoke.
I would make sure that your downpipe is not leaking any exhaust gas at all. if you hover your hand around that area (dont touch it, it will burn you) you should be able to tell if you have a leak, especially if you give it a little gas. probably the most important exhaust connection there is.
the low high tps point are like switches. you have low correction and high correction.
below your low throttle %, you will have 0 correction up until your low throttle % (this is when your in vacuum most likely, we let the ecu handle this).
above your high throttle %, you will have X correction all the way to 100% throttle, where X is the values you tuned (You should be in boost by this number unless your rpms are too low, which is why they tune high % by rpm).
but in between the low throttle % and the high throttle %, it will take an average between the high and low ( this is where sometimes your in vac and sometimes your in boost, so you move these numbers around to give you some extra fuel in transition to boost)
its a tricky thing to understand but once youve seen it done its really not that bad.
At least you are on stock injectors, that would complicate it further..
03-13-10, 03:40 AM
#23
I had this same issue after changing my plugs. Valve cover was the culprit. It produced smoking, caused random misfires and just ran poorly. If the valve cover is in poor condition on the inside part (spark plug galley) it will pool. When it does this you will have oil that just sits in the galley sloshing around and eventually it trickles down the spark plug or wire and causes it to smoke or misfire. When I did the plugs on my car I thought I ruined the car. I had smoke coming out the exhaust and the car never smoked in its life. Before the plugs the car idled at 21inches of vacuum after it was rough and was about 17.
After taking it apart and cleaning the galley of all the oil and replacing the vc gaskets and plugs again. It returned to normal. Heat and age tends to kill the valve cover gaskets. I replaced mine at in the 200k range.
After taking it apart and cleaning the galley of all the oil and replacing the vc gaskets and plugs again. It returned to normal. Heat and age tends to kill the valve cover gaskets. I replaced mine at in the 200k range.
Last edited by snomanlex; 03-13-10 at 03:47 AM.
03-13-10, 01:43 PM
#27
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cumming, Georgia
Posts: 599
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My valve cover gasket is leaking on my 1jz, my car burns oil a little bit, usually when its driving at like 10-30mph, today it seemed like there was a little bit of whiter smoke, could this be caused by that leaky valve cover gasket?
03-13-10, 02:48 PM
#28
If you already know its leaking, Id recommend just fixing it, if you still smoke, then continue searching but you'll have certainty it isnt the gasket-and you'll have a new gasket*always good*
03-13-10, 03:22 PM
#30
yup..... initially I misdiagnosed it as a stuck fuel injector....after wasting time and $$ buying a set of injectors and installing them only to have the same problem, I did what I should have done in the first place and got my noid light set out and checked injector pulse....number 5 was wide open, no pulse (noid light stayed lit). Thankfully it didn't wash down the cylinder.