Ashtrays NA-T problem/help thread
03-29-10, 09:34 PM
#91
well i let it reset for like 5 or 6 minutes..and nope i havent boosted at all. I dont care what it takes to get back to stock im really just hating this nightmare. if i had money trust me...id just send it to the guys at boostlogic and say "here you go, have fun" lol
03-30-10, 12:01 PM
#93
you should have dejackey come play with it, isn't he local to you??
I don't get how it was working before your battery dies and now its not again.
you could try putting the maf in front of the turbo. some cars like that better.
its not like you have to spend a ridiculous amount to get rid of the safc. for not much more at all you could get better management like a map ecu or even the maft pro your friend is using. Its really worth it, proper engine management should be factored into your na-t expenses before you even start. you *should* be able to run it on the safc though, not really sure why its having this much trouble.
Edit: maybe you should undo the catch can/evap if it worked better before.
is it possible you missed a vac line or something.
I don't get how it was working before your battery dies and now its not again.
you could try putting the maf in front of the turbo. some cars like that better.
its not like you have to spend a ridiculous amount to get rid of the safc. for not much more at all you could get better management like a map ecu or even the maft pro your friend is using. Its really worth it, proper engine management should be factored into your na-t expenses before you even start. you *should* be able to run it on the safc though, not really sure why its having this much trouble.
Edit: maybe you should undo the catch can/evap if it worked better before.
is it possible you missed a vac line or something.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-30-10 at 12:12 PM.
03-30-10, 12:09 PM
#94
I think I've decided to just scrap this project. I feel like it was half assed or something, no offense to anyone who helped me with it. I think I'll just get back to NA and then save up for a PROPER na-t set up or maybe even a swap. Plus it's just so difficult to get anyone down to Laredo who could help me.
03-30-10, 02:35 PM
#95
I think I've decided to just scrap this project. I feel like it was half assed or something, no offense to anyone who helped me with it. I think I'll just get back to NA and then save up for a PROPER na-t set up or maybe even a swap. Plus it's just so difficult to get anyone down to Laredo who could help me.
my suggestion.. for a na-t to run correctly and consistanly , you must go standalone .period... piggybacks will constantly change tunes on you and off boost driving is a nightmare
i have a friend here in miami , acleansc , remember him , its over 4yrs running a unopened ge motor so stock compression using a pt66 turbo at 15psi making 440rwhp .. motor has over 175 k on clock and been running strong since day 1 , secret , aem tuned
nuff said
03-30-10, 03:15 PM
#96
yup, it makes a huge difference with a good tune.
11 psi on my old safc setup pulled like garbage. the 9 psi i'm running with the aem blows it out of the water. I heard about your friend running that setup lexforlife. may have to swap my spring out for a few more psi before dropping the headgasket fund.
11 psi on my old safc setup pulled like garbage. the 9 psi i'm running with the aem blows it out of the water. I heard about your friend running that setup lexforlife. may have to swap my spring out for a few more psi before dropping the headgasket fund.
03-30-10, 05:37 PM
#98
you can get an aem fic for like 100 more bucks than an safc 2 and people run really nice setups on these things. More than enough to get you started on the right track. its still a piggyback but thats not the worst thing if you are odb2 (which you are). you can also use one of these to trick the stock computer into not learning and not throw emissions codes. all for 300 bucks and maybe + a few sensors you can shop around for.
good reading:
http://my.is/forums/f114/aem-f-ic-my...w-pics-347266/
good reading:
http://my.is/forums/f114/aem-f-ic-my...w-pics-347266/
03-30-10, 06:02 PM
#99
I really dont have the time or money to continue trying to fully diagnose this car and get it back on the road. My main focal point now is getting it back to NA..just waiting on turbodremz to fill me in on how to undo the safcII. You gotta understand me guys...Ive been in tears the past few nights because of all this...it kills me to give up on a project that I anticipated for so long. Im a college student taking 17 hours music major. I got in over my head and Ive learned from experience...dont skimp out on an NA-T project..go all the way or go home. I thank everyone for their input and care towards my project.
03-30-10, 09:47 PM
#102
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Man i got the headers off it was a pain. Gotta go to a muler shop and have them remove the last bolt connecting the midpipe and the cat. Such a pain i spent hours trying to remove it. The bolts were so weak they all stripped.
03-30-10, 11:24 PM
#104
Carlos if you scrap the project your going to regret it horribly. After talking to a few people over on club na-t I have come to the conclusion that the safc is what's giving you issues. Ody had the same exact problems with his na-t supra sold the car and is regretting it now..you don't need a full standalone, like Ali said go with the FIC or use the maft pro, both have shown and been proven to work excellent with odb2 vehicles and they are fairly cheap and easy to use and eliminate the key problem with tuning odb2 cars which is the maf. IF you can hold off for a few more weeks and get an maft pro and map sensors I can help you get it installed and setup and if you want we can do an egr delete to eliminate some of the usless junk under the hood...don't give up on it, I haven't, just been busy with work and trying to get my car done...hold out for a bit, save some cash and sell the safc2 and we can go from there...sound like a deal?
03-31-10, 05:23 AM
#105
a few more hundred spent now could very well avoid you having major eng troubles down the road costing you more in time and money ..na ecu no matter what piggy back still has zero ref for positive boost as it relates to timing .. sure you can alter the fuel supply in open loop here and there but timing is just as critical if not more critical and just relying on the +/- 10% if that adjustments of oem knock sensor to pull timing when going into boost is very dangerous
a standalone is the only way it going to drive like stock out of boost , start the same everyday , cruise the same every day and deliver a solid tune in boost thats motor safe .. many who run piggybacks on the forums will only quote you the positive side but rarely ever reveal the dark truth of the ugly side with the inconsistent tune and things changing here and there that affect really overall how well the car drives