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EMS Decisions 99 Na-T

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Old 04-09-10, 08:07 AM
  #31  
That-Guy
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and i thought sp's quickspool valve was cool but DAMN... at idle... make sure to get a dyno graph of this baby up...

lol
Old 04-09-10, 08:27 AM
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haha not boost pressure at idle just more airflow, current in general.
Old 04-09-10, 04:44 PM
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not really. the engine is still pulling the same amount of vacuum and the size of the throttle body hasn't changed any so there is not more airflow. if anything you would require less fuel because the air temps at idle will be significantly higher than an n/a car.
I think you can run big injectors with the FIC, it will just be trickier, and you will most likely have to live with whatever your idle is with the lowest duty cycle for those injectors.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-09-10 at 04:50 PM.
Old 04-09-10, 05:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SC51
^so if all that is true 470cc isnt bad on a huge turbo forcing more air in even at idle. And if there was a rich condition at idle you could adjust the fuel pressure down a little. I mean rite now with no management im boosting 7psi 10.9-11.5 a/fs WOT without any problems car drives excellent, I just fooled computer(old school way) and really turned up the fuel pressure, 2K miles with it this way and its pretty quick.
First of all it wont matter if its N/A or has a T-88 on it, at idle there is no boost so it makes absolutely no difference. As stated above the throttle plate is closed so airflow is the same, If you have a BIG turbo unless it BB the blades wont even spin at idle anyway and I know what you did with the fuel pressure regulator but thats ADDING fuel and the ECU can read the O2 sensor and see its running rich (because of high fuel pressure) and reduce the duty cycle on the STOCK injector to compensate, it wont be able to pull enough fuel out of the 750'S even at lower stock fuel pressure.

Look man im trying to help you out and explain this to you to save you a ton of money/ headaches.

First thing you have to realize is the SC is NOT A SUPRA and trying to turn it into one will cost more than just buying a supra from the beginning.

So you have to make a decision: do you want to be fast and make huge power or do you want to be cheap and save money??? YOU CANT HAVE BOTH.

You are limited on the SC by SEVERAL things preventing you from going over 400-500HP from your VVT-i block, to the tranny to the ECU and to go over this HP level will require AT LEAST another $10,000 in mods alone not including any labor (YES, TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS!) I can break it down if you need me to but trust me im probably way under the amount it would take.

So unless you really want to sink some MAJOR cash into it the best option is to run the 550's with a TT headgasket turn up the boost and tune the Fi/c with the stock ECU up to around 400-450whp and be happy with what you've got.

Last edited by IOWNALEXUS; 04-09-10 at 05:35 PM.
Old 04-09-10, 06:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3

not really. the engine is still pulling the same amount of vacuum and the size of the throttle body hasn't changed any so there is not more airflow. ...
Originally Posted by INEEDANSC3

First of all it wont matter if its N/A or has a T-88 on it, at idle there is no boost so it makes absolutely no difference. As stated above the throttle plate is closed so airflow is the same, ...


LISTEN GUYS....don't go confusing him with the facts!
Old 04-09-10, 08:35 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by INEEDANSC3
First of all it wont matter if its N/A or has a T-88 on it, at idle there is no boost so it makes absolutely no difference. As stated above the throttle plate is closed so airflow is the same, If you have a BIG turbo unless it BB the blades wont even spin at idle anyway and I know what you did with the fuel pressure regulator but thats ADDING fuel and the ECU can read the O2 sensor and see its running rich (because of high fuel pressure) and reduce the duty cycle on the STOCK injector to compensate, it wont be able to pull enough fuel out of the 750'S even at lower stock fuel pressure.

Look man im trying to help you out and explain this to you to save you a ton of money/ headaches.

First thing you have to realize is the SC is NOT A SUPRA and trying to turn it into one will cost more than just buying a supra from the beginning.

So you have to make a decision: do you want to be fast and make huge power or do you want to be cheap and save money??? YOU CANT HAVE BOTH.

You are limited on the SC by SEVERAL things preventing you from going over 400-500HP from your VVT-i block, to the tranny to the ECU and to go over this HP level will require AT LEAST another $10,000 in mods alone not including any labor (YES, TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS!) I can break it down if you need me to but trust me im probably way under the amount it would take.

So unless you really want to sink some MAJOR cash into it the best option is to run the 550's with a TT headgasket turn up the boost and tune the Fi/c with the stock ECU up to around 400-450whp and be happy with what you've got.

Amen to the truth!, people don't understand how much it really cost to make a high HP SC
Old 04-09-10, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aka paco
Amen to the truth!, people don't understand how much it really cost to make a high HP SC
Word.

yarthsa-
Old 04-09-10, 10:10 PM
  #38  
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INEEDANSC3 If you have a BIG turbo unless it BB the blades wont even spin at idle anyway
never seen that before, every turbo I've seen idling and what not the "blades" are always spinning..?

Well anyway the 750s will be installed tomorrow and I just got finished setting up and flashing the FIC for them. Very happy with the quality and room for tuning with the AEM and new firmware. Let ya know how it goes.
Old 04-09-10, 10:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by INEEDANSC3
First of all it wont matter if its N/A or has a T-88 on it, at idle there is no boost so it makes absolutely no difference. As stated above the throttle plate is closed so airflow is the same, If you have a BIG turbo unless it BB the blades wont even spin at idle anyway and I know what you did with the fuel pressure regulator but thats ADDING fuel and the ECU can read the O2 sensor and see its running rich (because of high fuel pressure) and reduce the duty cycle on the STOCK injector to compensate, it wont be able to pull enough fuel out of the 750'S even at lower stock fuel pressure.

Look man im trying to help you out and explain this to you to save you a ton of money/ headaches.

First thing you have to realize is the SC is NOT A SUPRA and trying to turn it into one will cost more than just buying a supra from the beginning.

So you have to make a decision: do you want to be fast and make huge power or do you want to be cheap and save money??? YOU CANT HAVE BOTH.

You are limited on the SC by SEVERAL things preventing you from going over 400-500HP from your VVT-i block, to the tranny to the ECU and to go over this HP level will require AT LEAST another $10,000 in mods alone not including any labor (YES, TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS!) I can break it down if you need me to but trust me im probably way under the amount it would take.

So unless you really want to sink some MAJOR cash into it the best option is to run the 550's with a TT headgasket turn up the boost and tune the Fi/c with the stock ECU up to around 400-450whp and be happy with what you've got.
I made a similar post with even the same number, 10 thousand dollars, and people ganged up on me. So i actually broke it down to them and they shut up really quick. They were talking about SAFC and junkyard turbo bs
Old 04-10-10, 05:37 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by aka paco
Amen to the truth!, people don't understand how much it really cost to make a high HP SC
look at my sig and the details within .. i am true na-t making 602rwhp and 561 on straight pump gas

it can be done for under 10 grand including install , it comes down to right turbo , right manny , right injectors , right fuel system ,cams , alittle head work but what seals the deal and makes it all come together ENGINE MANAGEMENT
Old 04-10-10, 08:53 PM
  #41  
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Ok so today I got this far, installed the 750s and wired the FIC up used the 1K 1/4W resistors on the o2 as manual said, (but people say im supposed to use 10K?) it stared rite up, running rich at idle A/F s around 13. CEL came on immediately with Trac light blinking too, couldn't rev past 3K and thats popping and what not, manual say I need to calibrate the RPM's and TPS I guess, didn't have a laptop handy and it got late so its staying parked for now.
Old 04-10-10, 09:06 PM
  #42  
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thats sounds like a good start, play around with it some more. I havent had a chance to see the fic software yet.
Old 04-11-10, 03:00 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by lexforlife
look at my sig and the details within .. i am true na-t making 602rwhp and 561 on straight pump gas

it can be done for under 10 grand including install , it comes down to right turbo , right manny , right injectors , right fuel system ,cams , alittle head work but what seals the deal and makes it all come together ENGINE MANAGEMENT
UMMMM you are comparing apples to oranges here..... Are you using the stock ECU with a piggy back or standalone??? Ill bet standalone.

If you read the thread i was saying with what he is CURRENTLY using he is limited under 500HP, now if he uses a standalone and upgrades other parts the sky is the limit. Everyone knows you can make XXXhp with a standalone and an R154 so whats your point exactly??????

You also have an R154, he has stock auto that wont hold that amount of power and would require a built tranny or a 5/6 speed swap for that amount.

And the $10K number i was talking about was for cars making BIG Hp as in 800+ whp. So show me an SC or supra thats putting down 800+whp reliably for under $10k????
You are Barely over 550hp on the street with cams/ported head/ standalone etc..... for him to do all that plus a 5/6 speed swap + LSD + new NON VVT-i bottom end + supporting mods etc...... would be over $10k

Last edited by IOWNALEXUS; 04-11-10 at 03:07 PM.
Old 04-11-10, 05:40 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by INEEDANSC3
UMMMM you are comparing apples to oranges here..... Are you using the stock ECU with a piggy back or standalone??? Ill bet standalone.

If you read the thread i was saying with what he is CURRENTLY using he is limited under 500HP, now if he uses a standalone and upgrades other parts the sky is the limit. Everyone knows you can make XXXhp with a standalone and an R154 so whats your point exactly??????

You also have an R154, he has stock auto that wont hold that amount of power and would require a built tranny or a 5/6 speed swap for that amount.

And the $10K number i was talking about was for cars making BIG Hp as in 800+ whp. So show me an SC or supra thats putting down 800+whp reliably for under $10k????
You are Barely over 550hp on the street with cams/ported head/ standalone etc..... for him to do all that plus a 5/6 speed swap + LSD + new NON VVT-i bottom end + supporting mods etc...... would be over $10k
dont get your panties in a wad here bud , how about being just alittle repsectful to posters here.. i do see your point about being over 10k as i keep neglecting the fact I DO ALL MY OWN work so i dont have a pulse on paying labor as well

listen the thing that makes the magic happen in a na setup is a standalone .. i dont care how you wanna slice it a ems is more critical in a na setup vs gte setup


lets see what would it take for me to get to 800 , bigger inj , bigger turbo and 4 row intercooler so whats your point

getting back to OP issue , i dont care if you are trying to make 400/500 or 800 a ems is.. required or else you will forever be chasing your tail with tuning ,,, been there done that 3yrs ago i started out with map ecu and was making 452 but out of boost car drove like crap , timing is the most critical thing next to fuel that you must have control of or it will never run currently or safely

btw car made 602 at 24 psi and i had to stop there because i ran out of intercooler..r154 has limits which btw im on my second one
Old 04-14-10, 01:33 PM
  #45  
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So after Removing the AEM FIC idea

**Update- SAFC2 is wired in and base tuned, idles a little rich 13.5 but getting the other numbers rite, car drives soo much better than the FIC and no CEL yet, its on its way to pulling nice I just get this quick detonation sound i think when first giving it more throttle but it instantly goes away? Also does anyone know the settings are supposed to be I have lo TH 45 (highest it lets me go) hi TH 95 I maxed all the NE settings to because my RPM readings are off SAFC says 250 idling but I'm really at 6-700ish. But All in all it seems to be running nicely with the 750s.


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